Originally Posted by SteveL (Post 6720532)

I have an interesting delima since I just switched to bl/lipo this past weekend. I am running a t-bar car with the pack running lengthwise and the electronics on the other side. Everything fits nicely and reasonably balanced with some added weight. The problem is that the car starts out driving great and then at the 7 minute mark, starts pushing in one direction and hooking the other. I've tried a variety of different tire combination and it is the same for all of them. I tried running larger tires, 44mm rear/42 frt only to have the car traction roll right off the start. I 've tried thin and thick t-bars with the same results. Changed frt springs and same results.:flaming:

The only thing I can think of is that our layout has ONE right hand 180* turn and everything else is left including the sweeper into a left 180*, and I'm wondering if the right front tire is getting abused and picking up traction to the point that it starts to dig and make the car hook on left hand turns? We are using good old regular Paragon but the predominant classes are rubber tire VTA & TC so there's lots of rubber in the groove. When you come off after 8 min. the frt tires are caked with build up on the areas that you do not apply any Paragon. ANd don'y suggest doping the eniter frt tire as I tried that too.:eek:

It's frustrating in that the car is very fast and easy to drive early, only to become a bag of crap and almost undriveable at the end. This is the same feeling that I always got when I tried link cars in the past.

What should I try next? Jack on the front tires, even stiffer frt springs, more caster, a pit stop tpo change frt tires............:rolleyes: Maybe 24 frt springs with black tires dopped all the way accross?

Thanks for any input as I'm headed to the track Thursday night for more testing.

Originally Posted by axle182 (Post 6723817)

Thats not how i understand it. on a square tire, the tire edge will literally fold under as the tire changes shape under the lateral forces, and tear the side wall, and chunk. On a rounded tire, the contact patch on the sides is lesser, and doesnt necessarily provide side bite, it eliminates the square edge from rolling under (not the right way to say it, the car and tire will roll up onto the square edge alot easier) when the car rolls up on a rounded edge, its harder to tear the side wall as there is alot more foam support and rim support (hard to explain without a diagram) and you can actually get some grip flipping without chunking anything. This is as i understand it from touring, to 1/8th onroad. Ive done it literally for years and square edge tires always chunk way way easier than a nicely rounded tire. My 12th tires, i round right to the rim. I dont leave any square side wall and my cars have plenty of traction and hardly chunk.

Originally Posted by Satish (Post 6559316)

Hello,

Hopeing someon can help me out. I found this battery at work, it has the following details on it.

3.75v
.589Wh
Lithium Ion Poly

Could this be used to power the servo on a 12scale?

I currently run the Novak booster, but due to space limits I am finding it difficult to put everything on there nicely. so basically want to remove the booster and try this battery.

Any help would be great... thanks

s

Originally Posted by Apex (Post 6722688)

Some of the problem could be the rubber tires from the sedans. They tend to build up a fuzz on the track which causes the 1:12 cars to have very inconsistent handling. I don't know if you have any foam sedan racing there, but you could try having their heats run right before the 1:12 heats to somewhat clean the fuzz on track.

No foam touring at this track although I wish there was.

I think you're going to have the swapping end problem running a 1S on a t-bar car regardless of your setup especially when the grip is high. The thing is you'll probably be able to fix the swapping end issue, but also sacrificing performance of the car at the same time.

Curious why you think that? As long as the car is balanced properly, there should be no advantage for a link or t-bar based on the type of battery and motor. You can change springs, I can change t-bars.

Also, is the track strictly a paragon track or all types of additives being used? If you can get everyone to commit to a one or two it might lead to more consistent track conditions.

Originally Posted by rosko (Post 6725549)

anyone else waiting on the 1's saddle packs

Originally Posted by JustMe2 (Post 6725656)

Why yes, yes we are!:nod:

Originally Posted by rosko (Post 6725549)

anyone else waiting on the 1's saddle packs

Originally Posted by Dane (Post 6725256)

For those using the Airtronics receivers, do 2C lipo packs work with these? I realize according to Airtronics the receiver is not BEC equipped and can only handle 6V. Experiences?

Originally Posted by rosko (Post 6725549)

anyone else waiting on the 1's saddle packs

Originally Posted by Apex (Post 6726236)

If your speed control only allows up to 6V to the receiver, then your fine. Otherwise, you'll have to run a receiver pack. I know IP and Epic have released a 6.6v LiFE receiver pack which is what I'm using and works great. No need for a voltage regulator either.

Originally Posted by Dane (Post 6727865)

So if the receiver, like the airtronics, can only handle 6V and the operating voltage of the ESC is 6V, no receiver pack required, correct?

Originally Posted by Dane (Post 6727865)

If the receiver can handle up to 7.4V but the ESC has again, an operating voltage of 6V, I need a receiver pack?

Originally Posted by Dane (Post 6727865)

This is all assuming 1S Lipo. When using 2C lipo, the pack provides enough juice for the receiver, servo, and motor, no matter what the specs in voltage are for esc and receiver, correct?