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Here is a quote from Jason of MaxAmps:
"Balancing is not an issue. Two cells one fully charged one discharged put together in parallel take less than 5 minutes to equal out. We even tested this on the charger as well one fully charged one empty put on the charger real fast and charged away with no issues. Now mix in an old cell with new cells and yes they will have a slight discharge rate difference but with most of us these days running LVC's at 3.4 to 3.5 volts per cell it's not an issue. Trust me guys we did our home work. This isn't something we just tossed together and went with. We have been testing and playing with these for a while now. The reason for the Slash give away was because we used one for the test bed. It works and it works very well. Jason" |
Our local battery supplier says that you dont really need to balance cells these days, but ive had a pack which i'm pretty confident had been sitting on the shelf for a while where one cell had charge the other way low.
Also ive seen a fair few 12th scale packs go soft. Dont know if it was a bad batch or something though or whether the lipos are getting pushed hard in the the 12ths. Come to think about it, are the normal 12th scale packs 2p anyway? BTW LVC of 3.4 - 3.5 to me does nothing in a 12th scale. Infact i dont think it even cuts out at 3V on the tekin? |
Originally Posted by mangoman
(Post 7898320)
Our local battery supplier says that you dont really need to balance cells these days, but ive had a pack which i'm pretty confident had been sitting on the shelf for a while where one cell had charge the other way low. If it's sitting on the shelf and the cells are connected in parallel, they will be even in terms of charge amount. One cell could still go soft while the other stays pretty good though.
Also ive seen a fair few 12th scale packs go soft. Dont know if it was a bad batch or something though or whether the lipos are getting pushed hard in the the 12ths. 10.5 or hotter and you ARE pushing them VERY hard. Also, some packs seem to be much more prone to going soft than others. One popular brand in particular is terrible for puffing and going soft. Come to think about it, are the normal 12th scale packs 2p anyway? yes, I believe so BTW LVC of 3.4 - 3.5 to me does nothing in a 12th scale. Infact i dont think it even cuts out at 3V on the tekin? Just quoting what he wrote. |
Yeah 10.5 / mod. Havent been racing much lately but it seems the locals are now dumping with 10.5s **EEK**
The ones which i have mainly seen going funny are an old batch of Thunder Power 5000s. So far my IB 5000s have seemed ok. |
Are the Protek 5000's holding up OK?
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Question for you pros on here. What are your thoughts about ceramic bearings in the axle and front wheels? Any noticeable advantages in performance? I heard some where that they can be brittle. Is that true. Any help is much appreciated!!
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I found acer ceramics were good in the ride height adjusters in the rear. I tried serpent ones (which had metal shields) and they got just as gritty as normal bearings and i couldnt clean them out.
In the front i have acer ceramics as well but the standard metal shielded bearings seem to last pretty well in the front. |
Originally Posted by mangoman
(Post 7898755)
I found acer ceramics were good in the ride height adjusters in the rear. I tried serpent ones (which had metal shields) and they got just as gritty as normal bearings and i couldnt clean them out.
In the front i have acer ceramics as well but the standard metal shielded bearings seem to last pretty well in the front. |
I soak mine in the same stuff i use to clean my motor. I let it soak in it for fifteen minutes all while sitting in a cup that i have made vibrate with an old aquarium pump. this does a great job of cleaning any bearings.
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Yeah i was told to use engine degreaser and i got one of those little vibrating cleaners but i hate it because it throws liquid out as it vibrates. You are meant to remove the shileds from the bearings (which is a real pain). Hard to explain without pictures but there is usually a litle sliver of metal running on the outside edge of the shielding which you can get a pin or exacto knife to flick out.
Also you have to be carefull with some rubber shields not to bend the shield or when you put the shield back in there can be a bit of friction. But I like those bearing cleaners where you put the bearing inside the two halves and flush it with motor spray. And they say on the instructions not to remove the shields. I find that works pretty good, but if you leave it too long and grit gets inside the bearing the balls are going to get dented and then they wont be smooth anyway. I like the ACER synthetic bearing lube stuff too (SIN), dont know if its really any good though **SHRUG** Its pretty thin, so i think when dirt gets inside the bearing it doesnt cake on like it would with a thicker grease which some bearings have inside. |
Any idea where I can pick up one of those bearing cleaners that you flush with motor spray? I just picked up some boca ceramics and would like to keep them nice as long as possible. Thanks again for the help!
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Originally Posted by windsor
(Post 7899149)
Any idea where I can pick up one of those bearing cleaners that you flush with motor spray? I just picked up some boca ceramics and would like to keep them nice as long as possible. Thanks again for the help!
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Originally Posted by windsor
(Post 7899149)
Any idea where I can pick up one of those bearing cleaners that you flush with motor spray? I just picked up some boca ceramics and would like to keep them nice as long as possible. Thanks again for the help!
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV92 |
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Hy all.
An information please I have asso RC12 R5.1 and new ESC LRP version 2 for 1:12. Before this ESC i'd LRP SXX TC. Whit new ESC i have the impression to have less punch. Someone culd tell me the "best" set up of the new ESC ?? Actually i have: FEEL 8 BOOST 10 motor: SP V2 4.0 tire size 44 mm (diameter) FDR 22/96 (the track is really short 4,7 sec for a lap) any suggestion ? thank's all ciao ciao |
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