Hello,
Can someone explain to me how you prep a new chassis? Just sand it and seal it with ca glue?
Thanks
Mark

Thank You!

As far as sanding the chassis, I have followed Mark Payne's excellent advice for a couple years now. One of the things hidden in his information-packed blog is that he does not sand the chassis edge. His reasoning is that by rounding the edges you lose the crisp edge by which to measure/judge ride height. This makes infinite sense to me, so all my chassis are CA-sealed but not sanded.

Haven't split a chassis yet.

Touch wood.

Scottrik

Hi everyone,

A little post to say I receive some parts to refresh an L3 (see some posts some pages back). I order some parts the LHS - I've been kind to do so - and still expecting others than could not be ordered there - CRC parts and a bodyshell.

I read somewhere about spur gear, something like, what the smallest nbr of teeth we can get? I have a 72 spur gear, that a piece of tiny thing! Now i need to get something to calculate ratio, maybe gearchart.com or a excel sheet will do the job!

I will put some pics to compare what I have now and the refreshed car!

Scottrik, thanks for the ymmv explanation!

Yes, I do the same, but I run a knife over the top to get any CA that crept over the side, so ride height is more accurate.

Yes, that is a very good idea. I do the same, but since I check MY ride height against the bottom of the chassis I pay more attention to the bottom surface ;)

Generally, though, I've found that the only place I've needed to touch is the very back lh corner of the main chassis plate where I start--I end up having to fight surface tension a bit to get that first drop of glue to "load" onto the chassis. From there I really don't get any on either side of the chassis, and I don't measure at that point, so it's only fussiness on my part that I pay attention to it at all.

I've had years of success sand and gluing the edges of chassis and graphite parts using a quality "Q-tip" as an applicator of CA.

I usually "wet" sand the edges starting with 220, 320, 400 and finishing with 600. I usually sand the chassis long ways or in the direction of the chassis, (meaning not accross the chassis where some splintering can occur)

(one word of advice...never dry sand carbon fiber...way to dangerous...wet sand always)

Once clear of dust and completely dry. Soak one side of a Q-tip swab with thin CA...shake of excess. In one motion quickly run the Q-tip around the edge of the chassis. I've gotten good enough that one motion will coat the entire chassis edge. I've never had CA drips using this method. Hang chassis to dry, do not use an accelerator. Once outer edge is dry, admire the mirror finish.

or just send your new kit to Mike Odonnel (od purple) and have him build you a sweet ass ride.

You must be using a slow CA to do that. I've tried it a few times and never had any luck with it. Either the CA would dry too much in the q-tip, or it would leave bits of cotton on the chassis, or there would be some sort of chemical reaction in the q-tip.

I sand my chassis too but don't round off the edges of the chassis. At worse I knock off the sharp edge a hair but no more then that.

No slow CA...use the thin stuff in pink bottle. I always use the "Zap" brand. It's important to shake the excess CA off the Q-tip. (believe me there is usually alot)

If cotton was left on the chassis it usually means a spot was missed during the sanding process (Kind of like running a Q-tip accross your finger to locate a splinter) I go all the way to 600 grit so its allways smooth. Also, if you stop the motion of the application for a split second you run the risk of bonding the Q-Tip to the chassis...

I've found there to be a chemical reaction when using some of the knock off brands of Q-Tip. Not sure why? I stick with the J&J brand...best ones I've found have been the wooden stick base...they stopped selling them in my area so now I'm stuck with the card board base

I tried the direct application of small CA bottle directly to the chassis and allowing the drop to run the length of the outer edge. May hands are not steady enough...just never worked for me.

I've had the problem with the Q-Tip, but have had good results with the detail paint brushes that are sold in a pack of 10 or 12 for $1.25. I use the brush which is a nylon brisel. Flows well, leaves no cotton, and it will last til I get the chassis done.

Then it is only good as a "Pick", when it sets up:lol:

No one play Cyclone 12 ?

where in US can you get parts for it ? not so interest to wait 10 days for parts to ship from oversea.

I was planning to get that but CRC seem to have more support here

That's the same stuff I use though I don't normally have any excess to shake off the tip...maybe that's why. I sand all the way down to 800 or 1000 grit usually then even turn the paper over and use the back...a trick I picked up back in woodshop class, so I'm not getting any snags. I just end up with little clumps of glue that dry fast enough to pull parts of the Q-tip off with it. I used to be real good with glueing chassis but now that I'm older I'm finding the same thing and get drips all over. Maybe I'll give Q-tips another try.

Hello !

I have tweak issues with my trinity black widow...
I set the tweak perfectly, but when i run just the smallest touch in a curb tweaks the hole car... what can that be ? I have tried to chance T-bar but thier was no differens from the other one.

When i had a calandra there was a hard crash involevd to make the tweak bad, but like a said the trinity i VERY senstive..

//Peter