fast- I find it extremely hard to believe that those pods (espically the left side) are perfectly true and completely perpendicular to the chassis. epsically if you have gone through those many other parts, lol. Also are your tubes still perfectly smooth without any fluid in them (ie no binding or anything?) If so you are one lucky guy! lol;)

Hey guys, got to run my Carpet Knife again today, went up 3 more laps from last week and won the A-Main, good day :)

Someone at the track recommended different front blocks, I am using the angled ones, he recommended the straightones, what will this do for the cars setup???

It will make the car push a little in mid corner.

so instead of the car rotating very agressively in the center of the corner it will smooth that out some????

The caster angle will remain constant despite suspensions compression. Less caster = more low speed steering. So mid corner, the caster angle will stay at 2 degrees (or whatever you set it at) for the entire corner.

It will push more mid corner. Whether or not that smooths things out depends upon driving style and all the other settings too.

Personally, I like more mid corner steering, a little less on entrance and exit.

I've heard that the angled suspension blocks on the AE front suspension make the car more aggressive under braking. That's why many people use them in the mod class. For stock, I've seen people use either the angled or flat, but some say the flat is better for stock racing.

The caster angle will remain constant despite suspensions compression. Less caster = more low speed steering. So mid corner, the caster angle will stay at 2 degrees (or whatever you set it at) for the entire corner.

It will push more mid corner. Whether or not that smooths things out depends upon driving style and all the other settings too.

Personally, I like more mid corner steering, a little less on entrance and exit.

IRS Axle
 

Spyderx-

I have it assembled that way but still have one question. On the outer hub which way does first flanged bearing go? right now I have the flange on the hub side so the other side is inside the spur gear. Should the flange point out on both sides of the hub? If so what keeps the spur gear centered?

Also, no one answered the cone shaped or "belleville" washer question. Do I need one?

Thanks for the help

I Believe IRS uses a one piece "diff cone spacer" Tower has them in short and long. I had to use the short one on my stock 12L3 axle and is alot more durable than the stock AE washer/cone. Here is the link.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXR009&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXR010&P=7

"I've heard that the angled suspension blocks on the AE front suspension make the car more aggressive under braking."

You use brakes?

Yes when the front suspension is compressed to its fullest extent, you will have 2 less caster (more negative) for more agressive steering in the middle of the corner. It would be the same if you could brake and compress the front end, but braking in the corner is not a good thing anyhow. Braking going straight would not make much difference anyhow. I don't use brakes and this is only after asking the pros that win at the track I race at. When I am hooked up right, I don't need them.

David Root

IRS large ring axle
 

stumper1: Both flanged bearings insert (small end) into the hub, so that both bearings are flush with the hub. A separate bearing is used for the spur.

Here's the order from the drive hub:

- diff ring
- Spur (with bearing in the center, and 12 diff balls around the outter edge)
- diff ring
- flanged bearing (small end away from spur gear)
- hub
- flanged bearing (small end toward the spur gear)
- IRS diff cone (small end toward spur gear)
- diff nut

No belleville washer is used!

Be sure to sand the diff rings using 600 grit sand paper.

I got the "D" ring version of this axle (no pinning) about 2 weeks ago, and IMO this is probably the best upgrade you can have on your 1/12th car. With the diff locked, the diff action is as smooth as butter. There's absolutely no bummpy feeling in the diff action. I could never achieve this using the standard diff!

Thanks Mike D.! :nod:

Junkie: I'm happy you got one of the 6 smooth sets of aluminum tubes that have EVER been made. Unfortunately they're heavier, and most require a fair amount of "smoothing out" to get them to work right. The Speedmerchant tubes don't compare because the Speedmerchant tubes are better.

You mean 8 sets, mine have worked fine from day one! Good thing we live in America, and therfore everyone is entitled to his/her opinion.:D

Eric

Make that 13 mine and my buddies where all smooth from the get go.... that's 3 sets from me!!!LOL Cypress just likes to dis all of the stuff I own!!!LOL :lol: :lol:

Does anyone have a good setup for a Chameleon 2 motor? I'm looking for brush, spring and rollout recommendations for a 60' by 60' track with high bite and alot of twisty sections.

Thanks