Originally Posted by tomdav

Thanks Mark. Outstanding work.

I have a question for you. When attaching the football(3.2R) I get a tweak. I followed the directions but would get a tweak everytime. My tweak as viewed from the rear looked like a smiley face. Both outside rear edges would raise up. I nailed it down to the football screws that were not perpendicular to the chassis. Do you use the stock hardware or have you had this problem before? Do you use tape to hold the batts in?

Originally Posted by JayBee

Hey Mark-
Is the info presented for the 3.2R good for the T-Fource I'm building?

Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland

Welcome to the world of 1/12th scale racing!
The Trinity reflex car can suit all your needs. Take your time building it, and make really really sure the front end doesn't bind in any place. You'll need to ream out some parts for that. The upper and lower arm balls and the steering blocks need to be checked for binding. Find the sweet spot between play and binding. Double check that camber and caster setting are exactly the same left and right.
Another important note: make sure the rear pod and main chassis are at the same height when the car is ready to run (with electronics and batteries installed). i.e. make sure the rear pod doesn't "hang low" or is jacked up by the center shock.
Switch the tires left and right every other run.
Stiffen the front tires sidewalls with CA, otherwise your car will easily traction roll.
Just make sure you can get the most of this car before moving on to another. You'll probably find out that you don't even need another car to run at the front of the pack. The Reflex did win some major races when it was just released and Trinity was still suporting it at their best.

Originally Posted by outlandr91

Thanks for the info! I have one question.When looking at the front of the car, the steering turnbuckles are level, I think they should be on a slight downward angle where they connect to the servo.I'm using a Hitec HS225MG servo and a small servo saver.I'm thinking of putting a small washer under the ballstud to raise the outside a bit.What do you think?

Originally Posted by Greg45231

Jaybee,

I currently run a T-Fource using the side springs instead of the tweek screws on the Tbar. As long as you are setting it up this way the Tbar only acts as a method of attaching the rear pod to the chasis (generally speaking) and Mark's proceedure for tweeking should work just fine.

Greg

Originally Posted by Mark Payne

Hi Tom

I am not sure what your tweak is. Does the centre pivot (the football) assembly drop onto the chassis bolts without interfearence? Why are the chassis bolts not perpendicular to the chassis?

In answer to the battery tape question ... in the "Total Tweak Guide" at www.12thrc.com, I explain that I do NOT use the CRC rubber O ring to hold the batteries in. I use battery tape.

So I kind of agree with Greg. I am suspect of the O ring. I have no direct proof but last year I had a lot of tweak problems which made me REALLY think about it. A lot of what you read on www.12thrc.com comes from my tweak paranoia. I now have NO tweak issues but I realise some may think I am a little "over the top". So be it.

Cheers

Mark