Hey guys I am having a problem with my 1/12th scale car and would very much appreciate some help. I run the carpet knife 3.2R and when I give my car full throttle from a dead stop the car is pulling to the right. I am new to carpet racing but not RC and can not figure out how to stop this. I have gone through the car and done every thing I could think of to fix this. I am running pretty much the stock setup. The car is perfectly static balanced and the tweak is right on the money. I have rebuilt the diff and have been on both sides of the fence with it, i.e. loose & tight. The tires are the exact same size from right to left. Is this something normal with the 1/12th scale cars? Or can this be dialed out. This is not very noticeable while racing except maybe coming out of a tight corner but it seems to me it shouldn’t be doing this at all. Please somebody set me straight!

Thanks
Bump

first, you can not just jab the throttle on a 1/12 and think it will go straight. that is just the way it is.

2nd. you can get it close to tracking straight with smooth accel by adjusting the nut. This nut adjust tension on the diff. start loose and you will see the car track much straighter, but slips. Then just tighten until the car track to one side and back the nut off to the last position you had. hopefully the car will traack straight and your diff is not slipping. if it is, then you will need tp smooth the diff ring and rebuild the diff.

Are you sure it was an old Switchblade, or was it a CEFX with a Dieter/Trinity-style front end? I know Josh has been running his car with the Dieter front end on it, and is testing parts for the CEFX. I would assume David is doing the same. Personally, I can't wait until he releases the retro-fit kit. I am not a big fan of the stock CEFX front end.

The extra material is taken off the top. If you measure a set of each, the older style measure 1.343" and the new style measures 1.263" in height. The axle is in the same location on each set.

D.P.

Thisgroup it sounds like you are saying this is not that uncommon with the 1/12 scale cars. I went to the track yesterday with fresh diff. I have always taken the time to build a very smooth diff. I ran a XXX-T for a couple of years and the diff was key in that truck and had to be perfect. I hone my rings until they are perfectly flat which make them very smooth. It might be I need to be a little more sensitive with the wrench while adjusting the diff. I will try as you say and see if it helps. Is there anything else I should look at?

Thanks
Bump

that is all that I do to get it going straight. but you can just jam on the throttle and get it going straight. 1/12 is all about smooth. so smooth acceleration is the key. i actually run my diff just a little loose. it does not slip, but just barely.

some of the the gods in this thread may have more thoughts on this :)

Are you running a Stock motor? If you are, and your track has decent traction, you should be able to CLAMP the throttle and the car should go straight. The only thing to check that you haven't mentioned is rear axle spacing. Scribe a line, front to rear on the rear pod plate on the chassis' centerline, then measure the distance between the centerline and the inside edge of each rear tire. If this is different, shim the axle on either side untill it's exactly the same.

One other thing to check is the front-end, the slightest binding in the front-end can cause issues like that as well.

Hey, Doug!

I just sent you a PM.

Thanks!

s-

Jr servo - 3550 vs. 3650
 

I just bought a new servo to replace a very aged and sloppy Futuba 9601. I grabbed it at the LHS on an impulse thinking it was the newest JR digital mini. Its not. Its the older 3550 analog. Should I bother getting rid of it and go for the 3650 or is the 3550 pretty comparable?
I know the difference in specs, I'm just not sure how that will compare on the track.
I know that on my larger 3d airplanes, I can feel a significant difference between high end analogs and high end digitals, even with expo tuned to give the same off center feel. But I also know that application stresses the heck out of any servo.
Is an analog 38 ounces and .11 transit plenty for 12th, or does more make a significant difference?

I have both - but the fastest guy at our local track is using the 3550 and he is hard to beat.............

It is a switchblade for sure. It has a 6 cell chassis and the old switchblade rear end. He also states its a Trinity in the tech charts.

hi all im new to 1/12 and jumped in head first and bought a new 12l4 because that is about what everyone else at are track runs. but now that i have run it a while and have seen different 1/12 kits and conversions out there i wonder if a different one would suit my driving style better.

i have ran offroad nitro for about 5 years and have finished in the top 5 at some national races so i know that certain brands of truck and buggy suit more to my driving style.

so how do 1/12 with t bars compare with ones without, how about ones with damper tupes and one with plates. and i know its alot of info to but could someone give some info on what the adjustments do for your setup such as.
ride height
caster camber
stiffer softer shock
more angle on shock.
pod plate lubes
front susp. springs
ect. ect.
thanks for any info

go to the AE web site and start with Blackstocks setup - it is a good starting point for the 12L4

ps Mo Denton (a top driver-check results for the 2005 on roads in Cleveland)whipped everybody at Y-City on new years day and thats what he was runnin.........

Also check out Mike Lafaso's web site - he placed 4th in 12th mod with a 12l4 - I think he beat Blackstock and that's tuff!

http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/index.html

There is a lot of discussion in this thread concerning those topics. Unfortunately, many people beleive it is nice to have all the topics stuffed into one big thread. From most responses, I gather this is generally due to laziness. People like to bookmark/subscribe to one thread and that's all they watch everday. The terrible side effect though is: it's nearly impossible to search through this monster thread and find all of the posts concerning a given topic. Plus there are multiple conversation topics simultaneously bouncing around all over the place.

The solution: Dedicated subforums for each class (like 12th scale) and have threads split up into different topics.

Wow, that's a huge surprise to me. I guess that just goes to show us all that there is no such need for new tech in 12th scale racing...

:nod: