Sorry if the question sounds silly. Personally, I don't see how I can do it without brakes/drag brakes. But I read in the earlier posting that brakes/drag brakes is not recommended for 1/12. Which I seriously don't understand.

I noticed some of the pro driver don't have drag brake too, so, wondering how do they do that.

Depends on the class to begin with, but with most 12th classes just let off the throttle slightly to transfer weight to the front of the car, turn in, and then get back on the throttle. Shouldn't need to brake or use drag-brake at all.

It depends on what you are running. For 17.5 blinky on a typical smallish indoor carpet track, brakes are usually not needed. In fact, a little push in the speedo can be very helpful. Anything faster, especially on a larger track, brakes may be necessary.

The cars are set up to turn without needing to slow down much at all. Typically all you need to do is get off the power an appropriate distance before the corner turn and gently roll the power back on as you exit the turn. If you hold the power too long the car will push a little wide and your lap times will suffer.

Back when we ran brushed motors Stock and 19T driver would often put a little "roll" (the car would just barely roll forward with the trigger at neutral) in their cars to overcome brush to comm. drag and magnetic cogging for better corner speed.

BL motors coast pretty freely so we don't have to do this anymore. I think most the fastest mod drivers do not use drag brake. They know when to let off and use brakes only for emergencies.

In 12 mod at IIC, I'll bet nearly every driver used some form of brakes, but for 17.5 1s, you should not need brakes, even for a 180

But every track has different conditions, so never say never...

have two crc cars xi and xti need to figure the best way to balance both of them i have a post under the new crc xti there you can see my number before and after some advise

this car is for sale. i have a lot of money into it...

id let it go with the speedo, motor, battery, servo, and chassis for $430 shipped. let me know

Matt

coming soon from Mardave in the UK

it should be running at the 12th National in the UK over this weekend

aimed at getting more into 12th with a budget chassis

https://www.facebook.com/TeamMardave

That car is missing a center shock lol

doesn't need one if you know how the Mardave car works

it's going head to head with the current crop of 12th cars but is designed around the proven Mardave chassis that is very popular in England. www.mardave.co.uk

I didnt even notice that @ first... lol...

Okay, I'm curious. I looked on the Mardave site and saw some drawings that showed how the rear springing is accomplished. But how is the damping accomplished?

what is your prefered 3.7v lipo battery for 3.5~5.5t motor ?

Have a question. when i squeeze the throttle, the rear wants to spin around. is the diff to tight or to loose?

The lipo with the most storage, 6800mah+
Voltage, IR, C rating not so important for mod, as you can always motor up
If it does that the same when turning both directions, then you may want to look into tires that have more rear grip bias
Harder front, Softer rear