good point, I'll do it this way

what are good ceramic bearings for the motor then ?

The ceramic bearing in the motor requires very little oil to run, meaning less drag on your fastest rotating part, and is more impervious to the heat of the motor. At the slower rotating speeds and low temperatures of your axle and wheels, the advantage is nil. Just blast the grease out of the cheap bearing and use some light bearing oil.

thanks!

might sound stupid but are there any books to learn the theory in 1/12 scale?

I get all my bearings here. I never buy ceramics. Like everyone said one crash and they are toast just like a $1 steel bearing.

http://www.4chobbysupply.com/servlet...ed-Dual/Detail

These roll smooth and last a long time even with occasional board slappers.

great!

I have to thank you for sharing the pics of your 12R5.2, it helped a lot for placing my electronics considering we share the same ESC

I just need to solder calbles now, do you have any suggestion for this?

great!

I have to thank you for sharing the pics of your 12R5.2, it helped a lot for placing my electronics considering we share the same ESC

I just need to solder the wires now, do you have any suggestion for this?

here is mine http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-up-guide.html

I tried Novak Ceramics bearing on my D3.5 motor. But I don't think I will use ceramics again.

So, I assume the bearing will make the motor very smooth, but I can't notice any difference in speed or power. It is pretty much the same.

What that strike me is the ceramics beering need constant oiling.

You can remove all the grease (which I did) but you make to sure there is good amount of oil. Ceramics bearing (at least novak) seems to generate a fair amount of dark dirt or dust, which at time, will seize the motor.

This happen to me before. I noticed that the motor start to slow down and I can't find what is the problem on the drive train. Then, I found that one of the bearing seized up.

+1

I will buy a reasonable cheap steel bearing for the front wheels, and replace them after going thru a certain sets of tyres.

Hey Jason, that's great.

I did notice the suggestions "Move Battery to Center of Car" and "Move Battery Toward Left Side". I assume that this is for oval racing?

Anyone else tried Kawada super diff gears?
Bought some, not yet driven though.
18 diff balls on those!

I got tired of newest Xenon gears which keep going bad, no matter what I do.
It would be so nice if Xray did a durable 16/18 ball diff...

btw. Looking at some pics from Xray Racing Cars from Snowbirds. Hagberg has a car with similar electrics layout as a AE R5.2. Interesting.

I've been happy with the Kawada gears I've used.

Yes sorry that version I didn't edit that our it's for oval. For battery placement Rear location gives you more steering and frees up the rear end to rotate
The front position will give you less steering and more rear traction

Hello.
Could someone post a good tekin 1S boosted 13.5 setup please.

Thank you.

Dave.

What issues have you had with the Xenon VSS gears? I know people who have run the same spur for over a year from them?