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Old 03-12-2007, 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Maybe you guys can help with this. My car handles great when I stay on the throttle and just adjust to the speed I need for each corner. But if I let completely off the throttle it's like I'm slamming on the brakes and the car gets loose. I'm using a P2K2 motor and a blue can Fantom Team Stock motor with a Quantum 2 ESC. I've got the punch set at 2, initial brake was at 2 I just reset it to 0, and the automatic brake is at 0. I just changed the initial brake but judging by sound it still seems like letting go of the throttle is the same as slamming on the brakes. Think maybe I'm running too much spring on the motor or is it a setup issue and not the brakes at all?
Haven't been running 1/12 long enough to give setup advice. However, a torquey motor like the P2K2 will have a lot of 'braking' action when letting off the throttle. You could try running larger rear tires to help keep the motor spinning, and/or bump up your transmitter neutral trim to a very slow roll.
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Old 03-12-2007, 03:56 AM
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I tried that...bumped up my trim to max and it still wasn't rolling yet...I think I'll have to add in some sub trim.

Edit - I redid the setup on the ESC and now I can get it to roll with the sub trim so maybe that will work. Thanks.
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
i measure my ball ends to a sertin length then cut
i have different ball ends for different droop settings
with or with out washers under the balls
from 0 to 2mm droop depending on how the track is.
if you move the ball forward the change is too great.
i think anyways
you can get a more precise change by cutting the 1 ball end.

yes,i agree,what i am talking about is not pod droop though.hmm,i dont want to sound like i am being nasty because i am really not.typing never sounds good. what i am talking about is strictly just changing the pivot point.you adjust your pod droop afterwards.i always maintain a certain amount of pod droop but i mess with different pivot positions to alter the cars feel and handling by changing the length and angle with keeping the pod droop the same with a longer ball cup or shorter if needed.you know what i am saying?
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Ffejdat
Hey all, I have a few more pics of the Jari FF-07 chassis
what are the shims/spacers for in this pic, (those inside the red circle) ?
Attached Thumbnails 1/12 forum-shims.jpg  
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:41 AM
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the ones up and to the left are for ride hight under the new style crc front end. the others are bad to go under the t-plate for the rear pod, and the 2 real small ones only one gets used. it to shim up the front side of the flex plate that this car uses!
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:01 PM
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onroad dude, tell Jari I need a set of the ride heights for the front-end, any way you can get a set and send them to me???


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Old 03-12-2007, 10:00 PM
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you have a pm
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Old 03-13-2007, 06:05 AM
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Lightbulb FF-07 chassis

FF-07 chassis

Jari & you guys that are running the above chassis

1. what set-ups are you using?

2. what effect do the screws in the 'tweak bar tuning fork' above the t-bar have on the chassis when moved front to rear
Attached Thumbnails 1/12 forum-tunning-fork.jpg  
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Old 03-13-2007, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
FF-07 chassis

Jari & you guys that are running the above chassis

1. what set-ups are you using?

2. what effect do the screws in the 'tweak bar tuning fork' above the t-bar have on the chassis when moved front to rear

Tweak plate is replacing tweak screws and it will give more side-to-side stiffness settings w/o changing t-plate thickness. So keep screws front you will have soft side-to-side spring and all the way back you have stiff one. Also you can turn plate 180 and you will have 4 stiffer options to play with. You basically can use .063 plate and have 0.075 side-to-side feeling and .063 feeling back-to-back. Normally I using 0.063 plate and screws second hole from front.
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:41 AM
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what do you guys use for tube lube on pavement i run a gen x
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:23 AM
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Jari- Sent you a PM.

-James
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Old 03-13-2007, 12:51 PM
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I know most of you don't run a 12L3, but...

I have one I am trying out 1/12 with. I have converted a few of my s/s packs to saddle 4cell packs, and I am going to start with a ROAR stock (old NIB Midnight 2) motor.

I have a 100 tooth 64p gear with it, is there a workable pinion to run stock for this car? New(size) CRC foams. The spur is a Kimborough... does it use the 1/8" diffballs? I got no balls!

I have only run a 1/12 a couple of times... we have a strong 1/12 class at my track.. so should be fun I hope.
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:11 PM
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crc front pro cut front tires. did they change the mold? had some before but this new set has a ton of end play with the standard bearings, do you have to run flang with them now?
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob
I know most of you don't run a 12L3, but...

I have one I am trying out 1/12 with. I have converted a few of my s/s packs to saddle 4cell packs, and I am going to start with a ROAR stock (old NIB Midnight 2) motor.

I have a 100 tooth 64p gear with it, is there a workable pinion to run stock for this car? New(size) CRC foams. The spur is a Kimborough... does it use the 1/8" diffballs? I got no balls!

I have only run a 1/12 a couple of times... we have a strong 1/12 class at my track.. so should be fun I hope.
best thing on the gearing is to ask at the track,1/8 are the starndard.
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by drfritz
crc front pro cut front tires. did they change the mold? had some before but this new set has a ton of end play with the standard bearings, do you have to run flang with them now?
you have to use flanged bearings
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