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Old 01-31-2013, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BenVtec View Post
Hi everybody,

I have a 1/12 scaled CRC Xi with shorty batteries, but the batteries aren't that good. So I decided to change the battery from shorty to normal 1S LiPo (in-line). But it doesn't fit because the chassis is designed for shorty LiPo and there is no space left to place my esc (hobbywing 120A 1S).
The only way to place my esc is to put the servo like it is in the new Xti, at the front between the front wheels. And there's the following problem, there's a big hole for the transponder so I can't place it unless the hole is clossed.
My question for you is, is there someone that can make a main chassis plate without only the transponder hole or has a drawing of the CRC Xi main chassis plate?
here is my xi, the chassis isn't designed for a shorty it is/was a add on piece.
you will need p#'s crc3354 but it should still be on your car as the rod mount, and i think crc3373 is the proper battery stop. then the large "o-ring" that mounts the battery, i found some at my local Napa. And of course a longer ball stud and hardware.

Last edited by jsinclair; 01-31-2013 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
Maybe I am confusing CRC chassis, but for the Xi aren't you able to just place the full size LiPo across the back of the chassis and have all the room you need for your electronics? It thought that's how It was meant to be used. Small LiPo inline, and full size would be transverse.
You are correct!
But to be in the best balance possition you must have the normal battery in line (like the Xti and other brands are doing with there car's).
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:46 PM
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The Xi can do a full sized battery in-line but then the electronics end up being placed really wide on the sides of the battery. He basically wants to convert it to be more like the Xti which other people have done before the Xti came out.

Easiest way to do that is going to be to get some scrap something...fiberglass, CF, graphite, whatever. Cut it to fit how you want on the front of the chassis then Shoe Goo the servo to the scrap and Shoe Goo the scrap in place on the chassis.
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Old 02-02-2013, 03:16 PM
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Default Done

I made photo of the car but some stupid rule on this forum says that I must have to place more threads...
Anyhow,
I manage to place the servo at the front of the car between the wheels!
Tomorrow I'm going to go to the track to test it :-)))
image

Last edited by BenVtec; 02-02-2013 at 03:55 PM. Reason: Photo uploading adding
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:25 PM
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Default Here it is...I hope

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Old 02-02-2013, 05:19 PM
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It looks like one of your motor wires needs to be longer, or it could cause some issues.

I highly recommend 16 gauge wire from TQ.
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
It looks like one of your motor wires needs to be longer, or it could cause some issues.

I highly recommend 16 gauge wire from TQ.
Thanks for the tip Joe, but it looks like it's to short but it isn't.
And I didn't had any 16AWG wire left to put in my car (that's why I used the red wires, sorry I was desperate :-)
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Old 02-03-2013, 02:32 AM
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A few weeks ago I said that I'd keep everyone in the loop as to whether I had any problems using 16 gauge in Mod in 40+ degree C heat. Well a cool change came through the day of the race, and it was about 18 degrees instead. Result: no issue at all. (4.5 reasonably well boosted.)
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
A few weeks ago I said that I'd keep everyone in the loop as to whether I had any problems using 16 gauge in Mod in 40+ degree C heat. Well a cool change came through the day of the race, and it was about 18 degrees instead. Result: no issue at all. (4.5 reasonably well boosted.)
This is interesting.

So, I recented changed to a Viper VTX-1 for it's smaller size compared with HW 1S. I am using 14 AWG now, and found that at peak, ESC can go up to 80 degree, but the motor wire register around 50+ degree. I dunno if the motor wire is heated up because of current or just heat from the ESC.

I am from Singapore, so, the weather is around 30+ degree and track temperature is about 40+
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:18 AM
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What will happen if you put shims underneath the front bulkheads? I would like to run larger front diameter tires without changing the ride height. Will raising the bulkheads change the roll center characteristics?

Cheers.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
What will happen if you put shims underneath the front bulkheads? I would like to run larger front diameter tires without changing the ride height. Will raising the bulkheads change the roll center characteristics?

Cheers.
It will raise the roll centre slightly.



In terms of the diagram the whole suspension is shifted up slightly, so the lines from the tyre contact patches to the intersection of the other lines will be steeper, and hence meet higher to define the roll centre.

You can maybe compensate for this by spacing the upper arm mount position on the king-pin with washers. This, in turn, will affect the camber-gain characteristics. Take careful measurements and draw a diagram is a good way to work out what things will do without hitting the track.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:02 PM
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Thanks for your help! I might go ahead and use a 1 mm shim and see the effects its has on the handling.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:18 PM
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Default Help with 1/12 car

I was running my BMI 12rr today. I noticed that on my 2nd heat of the day and in the main my car would slow down quite a bit about midway and beyond. I have not measured temps over 150 on the motor - A Speed Passion 1cell v3 17.5t. I run a booster.. not a battery, battery for the car is a Turnigy 5000 40c new (1 month old). Gearing on a ozite med bite carpet was 88 rollout with a 78/47. 46mm on the rears. ESC is a old school GTB .

Seem to be fine first 4 mins of the race.. its the last half where its dropping off.. almost like a dumped pack.

Also on the endbell of the speed passion .. is there a specific A B C pin? or they just need to be the 3 phases of the magnets in clockwise direction.. if there needs to be a specific A B C .. how is it marked??

Also with brushless motors.. can you spray out the cans? what way do you clean them?

Thanks for any advice.

James
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:28 PM
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ABC on your esc should go to ABC on the motor.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
ABC on your esc should go to ABC on the motor.
Im not new...

The speed passion end bell can be rotated if I take it apart I can put the end bell back on where the C is where the A was.. etc.. unlike a motor with fixed solder points.. So .. is it ok to put the end bell back on anyway? or are their markings that require it on a certain way. Because nothing seems marked to me..

James
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