649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
10-19-2016, 03:25 AM
#3871
10-19-2016, 04:26 AM
#3872
I have a B5m thats fully tricked up, not really worth anything here in UK, I know that the schelle rear hubs will fit but I lose axle height adjustment
also looking at it I have ally rear wing mounts, but they would move the wing 10mm forwards,
is this likely to be an issue?
just trying to save parts from waste on the B5m and upgrade the B6 without spending a fortune again LOL
also looking at it I have ally rear wing mounts, but they would move the wing 10mm forwards,
is this likely to be an issue?
just trying to save parts from waste on the B5m and upgrade the B6 without spending a fortune again LOL
10-19-2016, 09:15 AM
#3876
10-19-2016, 10:39 AM
#3877
Tech Rookie
10-19-2016, 11:06 AM
#3878
sport10 and Balony, thanks!
I ran some practice laps yesterday. Basically, after practicing, I switched to the short eyelet. The dogbone pin is just so close to the end of the outdrive at full droop that in the right crash event, the bone may pop out causing DNF. I also suspect that the piston is better placed in the shock fluid column with the short eyelet at the front of the arm.
I am not super fast, but I love the way the car handles in this configuration. Just gobs and gobs of steering, carries so much corner speed, jumps flat
I ran some practice laps yesterday. Basically, after practicing, I switched to the short eyelet. The dogbone pin is just so close to the end of the outdrive at full droop that in the right crash event, the bone may pop out causing DNF. I also suspect that the piston is better placed in the shock fluid column with the short eyelet at the front of the arm.
I am not super fast, but I love the way the car handles in this configuration. Just gobs and gobs of steering, carries so much corner speed, jumps flat
10-19-2016, 11:25 AM
#3879
sport10 and Balony, thanks!
I ran some practice laps yesterday. Basically, after practicing, I switched to the short eyelet. The dogbone pin is just so close to the end of the outdrive at full droop that in the right crash event, the bone may pop out causing DNF. I also suspect that the piston is better placed in the shock fluid column with the short eyelet at the front of the arm.
I am not super fast, but I love the way the car handles in this configuration. Just gobs and gobs of steering, carries so much corner speed, jumps flat
I ran some practice laps yesterday. Basically, after practicing, I switched to the short eyelet. The dogbone pin is just so close to the end of the outdrive at full droop that in the right crash event, the bone may pop out causing DNF. I also suspect that the piston is better placed in the shock fluid column with the short eyelet at the front of the arm.
I am not super fast, but I love the way the car handles in this configuration. Just gobs and gobs of steering, carries so much corner speed, jumps flat
Last edited by Silverstonev8; 10-19-2016 at 11:36 AM. Reason: Add part #
10-19-2016, 03:09 PM
#3880
No, but I can see how they may also help keep the bone in the outdrive. In the end, I followed Kody's recommendation and overall droop is reduced enough to keep things in check
EDIT: actually, I'm not sure this is true. the back end of my car is apart right now. I will take a real close look at things when I get it back together. thinking about it now without the car in front of me, I think the biggest effect is the tension on the shock spring as the eyelet "looses" length at the shaft/spring retainer (threads are showing now) and not the bottom. this will mean I have to change the shock collar setting to maintain ride height. uuuggghhh confusion...
EDIT: actually, I'm not sure this is true. the back end of my car is apart right now. I will take a real close look at things when I get it back together. thinking about it now without the car in front of me, I think the biggest effect is the tension on the shock spring as the eyelet "looses" length at the shaft/spring retainer (threads are showing now) and not the bottom. this will mean I have to change the shock collar setting to maintain ride height. uuuggghhh confusion...
Last edited by SMcD; 10-19-2016 at 03:24 PM.
10-20-2016, 04:27 AM
#3885
Do the new style ballcups need to be squeezed like the old ones and are the new ones compatible with the 5 platform?