649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-26-2016, 01:57 PM
#4021
Just built the 4 gear stand up. Does it matter what side the ball diff hex bolt head faces?
In the manual for the standard 3 gear it mentions to have the ball diff hex bolt head same side as spur gear. In the sc5m manual which has the 4 gear it mentions the opposite. Ie ball hex bolt head opposite side to spur gear.
Thanks
Mark
In the manual for the standard 3 gear it mentions to have the ball diff hex bolt head same side as spur gear. In the sc5m manual which has the 4 gear it mentions the opposite. Ie ball hex bolt head opposite side to spur gear.
Thanks
Mark
10-26-2016, 02:04 PM
#4022
here we go 
10-26-2016, 03:19 PM
#4024
Tech Rookie
Any thoughts on set-up for a medium sized clay track with low-medium grip that has long straights, multiple 180s and big jumps. Not very technical. Running stock with 69/31 gearing and laydown transmission with rear shocks to the front of the tower.
After reading about suspension geometry, I was thinking of moving the top shock position to the outer positions and going 30 degrees on the kickup.
I've already changed to shock oil to 32.5 front/30 rear. Gray springs front/ Green Yokomo rear. What do you think?
Should I add back my waterfall brace?
Thanks guys!
After reading about suspension geometry, I was thinking of moving the top shock position to the outer positions and going 30 degrees on the kickup.
I've already changed to shock oil to 32.5 front/30 rear. Gray springs front/ Green Yokomo rear. What do you think?
Should I add back my waterfall brace?
Thanks guys!
10-26-2016, 04:34 PM
#4025
Any thoughts on set-up for a medium sized clay track with low-medium grip that has long straights, multiple 180s and big jumps. Not very technical. Running stock with 69/31 gearing and laydown transmission with rear shocks to the front of the tower.
After reading about suspension geometry, I was thinking of moving the top shock position to the outer positions and going 30 degrees on the kickup.
I've already changed to shock oil to 32.5 front/30 rear. Gray springs front/ Green Yokomo rear. What do you think?
Should I add back my waterfall brace?
Thanks guys!
After reading about suspension geometry, I was thinking of moving the top shock position to the outer positions and going 30 degrees on the kickup.
I've already changed to shock oil to 32.5 front/30 rear. Gray springs front/ Green Yokomo rear. What do you think?
Should I add back my waterfall brace?
Thanks guys!
10-26-2016, 05:30 PM
#4026
What is the downside to running the b5m kashima rear shock without a longer shock tower? Is buying the longer tower a must or can I do something with upstop/downstop shims.? Thx couldnt find he rationale
10-26-2016, 06:09 PM
#4027
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
Pop Survey: I'm still debating about picking up a B6/D somewhere around the New Year. I am curious about actual numbers and not about "this other guy at the track". So if you have had to personally replace the items below due to breakage, let me know how many times.
How many have you replaced:
Front Tower:
Rear Tower:
Chassis:
How many have you replaced:
Front Tower:
Rear Tower:
Chassis:
10-26-2016, 07:09 PM
#4028
10-26-2016, 07:40 PM
#4029
Pop Survey: I'm still debating about picking up a B6/D somewhere around the New Year. I am curious about actual numbers and not about "this other guy at the track". So if you have had to personally replace the items below due to breakage, let me know how many times.
How many have you replaced:
Front Tower:
Rear Tower:
Chassis:
How many have you replaced:
Front Tower:
Rear Tower:
Chassis:
10-26-2016, 10:26 PM
#4030
Tech Rookie
I.e. technical track with small jumps VS open layout with big jumps
10-27-2016, 07:00 AM
#4031
So I've managed to break 2 front shock towers so far, with about 20 packs through the car at our local carpet track. (drprc.com)
I've seen pics on B6 nation of broken shock towers as well as others at the tracks. They seem to break at the hole closest to the center of the shock tower. This makes sense as its the obvious stress riser. The failures on mine where the result of an impact to the front of the vehicle, and not from a load in which the tower was/is designed to carry.
That said, if you're not using the upper/outer most shock mounting hole, consider deleting that part of the tower via sanding/grinding/dremmeling it off. This reduces the "lever" acting on the area of tower's arm that's prone to breaking.
There will be those that may not agree with this line of thinking and that's fine. But it's either this or fabricate an aluminum tower for me.
I lack the post count to add pictures. So here is the link.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1464...2369150323808/
I've seen pics on B6 nation of broken shock towers as well as others at the tracks. They seem to break at the hole closest to the center of the shock tower. This makes sense as its the obvious stress riser. The failures on mine where the result of an impact to the front of the vehicle, and not from a load in which the tower was/is designed to carry.
That said, if you're not using the upper/outer most shock mounting hole, consider deleting that part of the tower via sanding/grinding/dremmeling it off. This reduces the "lever" acting on the area of tower's arm that's prone to breaking.
There will be those that may not agree with this line of thinking and that's fine. But it's either this or fabricate an aluminum tower for me.
I lack the post count to add pictures. So here is the link.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1464...2369150323808/
10-27-2016, 07:47 AM
#4032
We race outdoors on a rough hard track and I haven't broken anything on my B6 or B6D yet. However, I let a friend run my B6D on its second race day and he turned it over and supposedly broke a rear tower....it was returned to me fixed. I think the towers are the only weak point. When AE was at our track testing tires their team manager said that its only the towers that get cut from the ends of the CF sheets that seem to be more brittle and AE is addressing it. Honestly, I liked the plastic towers on the B5M better. I'm still not 100% comfortable with the B6 & B6D but neither of them has slowed me down. I don't know the cars that well yet and have a harder time making adjustments. I knew exactly what to do on the B5M but not so much on the new cars.
10-27-2016, 08:14 AM
#4033
Pop Survey: I'm still debating about picking up a B6/D somewhere around the New Year. I am curious about actual numbers and not about "this other guy at the track". So if you have had to personally replace the items below due to breakage, let me know how many times.
How many have you replaced:
Front Tower:
Rear Tower:
Chassis:
How many have you replaced:
Front Tower:
Rear Tower:
Chassis:
Front Tower: 2
Rear Tower: 1
Chassis: 1 (don't ask)
Plastic front bulkhead: 2
Regards,
Doug
10-27-2016, 08:51 AM
#4034
Thanks Guys. I think we can stop now before Matt has steam coming out of his ears. 
10-27-2016, 10:27 AM
#4035
