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Old 04-29-2016, 07:17 AM  
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Q: Which car should I get?
A: Buy both if you can afford it. Or buy one that you think you need and wait for a used one of the other to buy at a discounted price. Much like the B5M/B5, having two cars can allow you to adjust to varying track conditions.

Conversely, you can buy the laydown transmission parts so that you can change a B6D to now have a laydown transmission.

See the Q&A below for the full parts list needed to change a B6D to add a laydown transmission.

The other questions you have to ask yourself is:

What kind of surface am I running on? Is it high bite or low bite? Carpet or dirt?

Here's some perspective from AeRayls:

"The only reason to buy the B6 is if you plan to run carpet or turf, that's it!

For any other surface including switching back and forth between dirt/turf/carpet etc buy the B6D and any parts to convert as it'll be cheaper and easier."

Here's break down from Kody Numendahl via facebook:

There seems to be some confusion about which car to buy between the B6 and B6D. A lay down gear box isn't the only difference between the two kits. The B6 also comes with a gear diff and gull-wing arms/tower. I attached a photo showing some common configurations that drivers will want to run and which kit I would recommend for each.

Q: What are some good setups for medium to low-traction tracks?
A: See this response from Ray Munday

Originally Posted by ray_munday View Post
Hi all,

Based on lots of testing and racing down here in Australia (and at the Reedy Outdoor race), I have compiled a setup guide for the B6D on these sorts of tracks. The platform is hugely adjustable and we are learning all of the time, but I hope this helps some of you running on lower grip / bumpier tracks.

Any questions, hit up my help thread, send a PM or hit me up on Facebook.

Setup guide pdf on this post:

Additional notes and setups on this post:

Petitrc has compiled it here:
Team Associated B6D - Ray Munday - Outdoor Setup Guide

Even in French!!
Team Associated B6D - Ray Munday - Guide de reglages pour pistes exterieures - Jan 2017
Q: Can I mount my transponder vertically?
A: Yes, you can, but the instructions state to mount it horizontally as low as you can off of the chassis:

Q: Can I mount the shocks on the front of the arm?
A: Yes, however you can only do this with the laydown transmission.

Q: What is the difference between shocks on the front of the tower/arm and shocks on the rear of the tower/arm?
A: It changes the weight bias of the car. Shocks on the front takes weight off the rear axle, and makes the car rotate faster. This is optimal on very high bite tracks, or tracks with a lot of 180's. Shocks on the rear is more common in the US, as it provides more rear bite and also makes the car react slower.

Q: Do I need to sand and glue the carbon fiber shock towers?
A: You don't have to, but it's highly recommended. See the useful links section on how to do it.

Q: Can I use my B5 servo mounts in the B6?
A: Yes! Be aware that the mount will push the servo forward a few mm, but it will work.

Q: Can I use an aftermarket aluminum servo horn on my servo?
A: Yes, you can. You may need to adjust the spacing on your servo to accommodate for the offset difference between servo horns.

Q: Can Schelle or AE B5M alloy hubs work on the B6/B6D?
A: Yes - they can. However you lose the height adjustment that the factory hubs have. No word yet on an alloy version of the height adjustable stock hubs.

Q: Will the B6 work on dirt/clay?
A: Yes, it will. Which one works better for your particular track will depend on how much experimentation you do and how high the traction is.

Q: What parts transfer from the B5m to the B6/B6D?

Q: Are the C and D mounts the same on the B6D as the B5M?
A: No, they are different.

Q: Does the B5m body work on the B6/B6D?
A: No.

Q: Can I put my B5M diff into the B6/B6D?
A: Yes, with shimming.

Q: What parts do I need to add a 4 gear transmission to my B6D?
A:*Thanks to 190mph for the list* You will need the following parts:

91707 Standup 4 gear gearbox cases
91714 Standup 4 gear motor plate
91711 Standup 4 gear dust cover
91717 Idler gears 26T
91132 Idler Shafts
91560 Pack of 5x10x4 FT Bearings

Also there is a specific Factory Team Spotlight page on 4 Gear setup for Outdoors tracks typically:
Spotlight: 4-Gear Chassis | RC10B6D

Q: What parts do I need to add a lay-down transmission to my B6D?
A: *thanks to Boucher starting the list*
You will need the following parts (complete list coming soon):

91708 Laydown gearbox
91709 Chassis braces
91715 Laydown motor plate
91716 Idler gear
91739 Body
91703 Gear diff (if desired)
91709 Waterfall


91705 B6 laydown transmission conversion

Q: What would I need to covert a B6 to a B6D?
A: You will need:

91706 Gear Box (3-gear)
91713 motor plate (3 gear)
91707 Gear Box (4 gear)
91714 motor plate (4 gear)
91709 Waterfall
91717 Idler gear
91711 Gear cover (4 gear)
91712 Gear cover (3 gear)
91739 Body
91663 Gull wing tower
91673 Gull wing arms
91702 Ball diff

Q: Why did AE change the ball cup design?
A: Here's the answer from AE's Tim Tunnerman: "The new ball cups are smaller in outer diameter, more enclosed to help keep debris out and improved consistency and fitment. Particularly under load."

Q: What are the turnbuckles made of?
A: Nickel Plated Spring Steel

Q: How can I fit my B5M diffs in my B6/D?
A: The B6 diffs are 2mm wider (1mm per side). The new part number for the gear diff includes the needed spacers so you can run the B5 series gear diff in the B6. They are just using the rear axle spacers they made for when using the +4 C/D mounts on the B5. The small spacers are not needed.

Q: What side does the diff screw face in the transmission?
A: I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
Here are manuals from the last few models from AE for reference:


B5M 3-gear:

B5M 4-gear:

B6D 3-gear:

Q: What does running the shocks on the B6 in front of the rear tower do?
A: The shocks on the front of the arm lets the car change direction faster for very high grip conditions.

Q: What shock eyelets do I use on which arm hole?

Q: What Kashima shock bodies do I need for the B6/B6D?
A: For the front, you will need #ASC91576 12x23mm Buggy V2 Front Shock Body
For the rear, you will need #ASC91577 12x27.5mm Truck V2 Front Shock Body
For the rear, you can also buy #91666 B6 Rear Shock Tower (Long)
and #ASC91578 Buggy V2 Rear Shock Body

Q: Why was there such a short turnaround between the 5 and 6 series? The b4 lasted 10 years!
A: Racing has changed dramatically over the last three to four years. Tracks and traction are changing. The need for a new car was necessary to adapt to all the new changes. You can still run the 5 series competitively. Your car didn't just get obsolete overnight. If you think about it, the B4 to B4.1 and then B4.2 progression were responses to tracks changing in traction and configurations. AE was just able to adapt the same platform.

There is a high probability that we may see a more frequent life cycle time for vehicles.

Q: Do I need to lube the gears in the transmission?
A: This is a strictly personal preference, but a little grease doesn't hurt anything. We are talking about a small dab of grease, in one spot, on each gear. What kind of grease you ask? Black or clear AE grease work, shock oil works; just about anything that will provide a little lubrication.

Q: What gearing do I start with?
A: This question is very track dependent, but for Stock, start off with a 66, 69 or 72 spur and 28-34 pinion. For Mod, follow the chart in the manual to start. Always gear for temperature, and check after every practice run to ensure you are not building up too much heat.

Q: My turnbuckles are stiff/pop off when I try to adjust them, how do I fix them?
A: Make sure you have greased the threads with either black grease or chapstick. You may want to use a drill to "work" each turnbuckle into the cups. To do this, chuck the turnbuckle into your drill, and drill slowly into and out of the ball end. This will cut and work the threads into the ballcups making it easier to make adjustments. There is a ball cup tool on Shapeways that you can use to hold the ball end, which will make this process much easier to do.

Q: What hop-ups should I get for my new kit?
A: start off with an aluminum steering rack and work from there.

Q: What type of Diff Balls and Thrust balls should I use?
A: General consensus on this forum is that Carbide diff balls and Ceramic thrust balls make the best diff. I have used ceramic diff balls before, but it does require a tighter setting. I would suggest using the carbide/ceramic combo mentioned above, but make sure you follow a break-in procedure as outlined in the above links further up in this post.

Q: What's the difference between a 3 and 4 gear transmission?
A: See this:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
It changes the direction the motor rotates/torques against the chassis. In a RM car, you want the motor's rotation direction to put pressure on the front tires, so the dang thing can turn, because there is so much weight out back. It gives the car a balanced feeling. RM car's accomplish this with a 3 gear trans.

In a MM car, because all of the weight of the car is inside the rear axle, the balance sits the other way. On-throttle, they CAN lack REAR bite, instead of front bite. So you run a 4gear trans, so that the rotation of the motor torques the chassis to put pressure on the rear tires instead. If you run a 3 gear trans in a MM car, you have the potential to really limit weight shift to the rear of the car.

This is stuff I learned 20 years ago, and still have modern day experience with when I was running the DEX and Cougar (which only had 4gear option). It's published info you can go look-up yourself. As a matter of fact, Durango has a GREAT little graphical diagram that teaches the whole thing.

I will venture to say that MOST tracks, the 4gear will be better. On SOME tracks that have high enough traction... the 3 gear will be better. Either way, releasing the truck stock with a 3 gear would be a mistake, as it certainly won't be the way to go for most tracks. So in conclusion, it is my opinion that it will be a tuning option for those that want the most amount of on-throttle steering as possible, which will usually only be tracks with the highest levels of traction.
Also see this, from Kurt Wenger, former AE designer and Schelle Racing owner:
Kurt Wenger A quick lesson on we go. I personally believe the difference in drag is nothing compared to the difference in car handling. 3-gear won't give you the feeling of more power.

There are 2 things the gearbox (and thus the motor orientation) change on the handling:

1) torque effect: When you hit the gas, with a 4-gear, the motor pitches the car to the rear, adding grip on power. The 3-gear orientation pitches the car towards the front, resisting weight transfer. The opposite is true on decelleration/brakes. 3-gear makes the motor forces resist the natural direction of weight transfer

2) gyro effect: When you turn, the 4-gear orientation makes the motor add to the lean of the car, while the 3-gear orientation resists lean.

Thus, when you drive the 3-gear, the car feels less reactive/more mellow, with less on-power traction. This is generally good for extremely high grip tracks, or drivers that want the car to stay flat in the turns....3-gear generally stabilizes the car but you need to make a few changes to get enough rear grip. I wouldn't recommend it on a loose or low-grip track.
And then see these explanations, courtesy of Team Durango:

The rotation of the motor is in the same direction as the rotation of the wheels. The torque of the motor is in opposition to the rotation of the motor and is ‘aimed’ between the motor and the contact patch of the tyre. This causes the rear end to squat under acceleration aiding forward traction whilst keeping wheelies to minimum.

The rotation of the motor is in the opposite direction to the rotation of the wheels. The torque of the motor is in opposition to the rotation of the motor and is ‘aimed’ in front of the motor. This causes the rear end to squat very little under acceleration and provides very little mechanical grip unless there is already sufficient grip from the tyres. Thus forward traction is not as high as MM4.
How does this translate to the track? Note the rotation of the motor. This can affect the way the car jumps, in-air stability and acceleration. If you have the cash, give it a try!

Here's Frank Root's (TLR designer) take on 3 gear vs 4 gear:

Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference, as *I* like the 4 gear (feels more natural to me) but a 3 gear can work for you, you really just have to try both out to see what works.


Last edited by RCBuddha; 11-25-2017 at 05:13 PM.
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