649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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06-06-2020, 06:28 PM
#9151
Take a few pictures or a video.
05-02-2023, 12:58 PM
#9152
I am building mine for street stock using 8500mah . I cannot really find any info on how to use velcro hold down for battery. How I have pictured is the best I could figure out. Did drill some holes. Any advice or pics would be great. It should be a ripper. Thanks.
05-20-2023, 09:08 AM
#9153
Rear upgrades:
Ti Turnbuckles Rear
Ti Turnbuckles Rear
05-24-2023, 08:08 PM
#9154
Tech Initiate
Hey guys I'm looking for these part #'s if anyone has them.
91714
91707
They are the 4 Gear standup motor plate and Gear case. Thanks
91714
91707
They are the 4 Gear standup motor plate and Gear case. Thanks
05-26-2023, 05:22 PM
#9155
Originally Posted by ShootHere_;[url=tel:15648790
15648790[/url]]Brains trust, question regarding basic build/setup problem I'm having.
Trying to get the front setup but somethings off and for the life of me i can't work it out.
Using the kit measurements for the links (all spot on) then trimming to get the toe equal (which says to me the wheels are straight), the camber is way off on one side, ie left is correct (or very close) but the right is over -3
clearly something's not right, but i have no idea where to look and hoping someone might have a clue about where this might be going wrong
Trying to get the front setup but somethings off and for the life of me i can't work it out.
Using the kit measurements for the links (all spot on) then trimming to get the toe equal (which says to me the wheels are straight), the camber is way off on one side, ie left is correct (or very close) but the right is over -3
clearly something's not right, but i have no idea where to look and hoping someone might have a clue about where this might be going wrong
You could compare your manual to the one that is online and see if they are different.
02-27-2024, 11:13 AM
#9156
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Stand Up 3 gear and 4 gear
Hi folks, I have a stand up 3 gear and a stand up 4 gear transmission from the B6 era but I’m not 100% sure if they are meant for a B6D or a B6.1-.4 chassis, am I right, that they are not interchangeable? That is, if they are B6, they will not fit B6.1-.4 chassis? How can I tell or what measurement do I need to be sure? Something to do with the C and or D blocks? I’m putting together all my B6 series stuff I no longer have a use for in a sale and want to list it correctly. Thanks in advance.
02-28-2024, 07:32 PM
#9157
Tech Rookie
Hello everyone. I'm trying to get back into racing on a budget after being out for over 10 years. Looking to find some used roller first and get back in that way and buy the latest and greatest once I get better at driving.
My question is... Would there be a big difference for me to buy a b6.2 vs a b6.4? Or should I really just focus on finding a good 6.4 and not look at any model before that?
Thanks for the help!
My question is... Would there be a big difference for me to buy a b6.2 vs a b6.4? Or should I really just focus on finding a good 6.4 and not look at any model before that?
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by 5280RCDriver; 02-28-2024 at 07:33 PM. Reason: Misspelling
02-28-2024, 08:35 PM
#9158
Hello everyone. I'm trying to get back into racing on a budget after being out for over 10 years. Looking to find some used roller first and get back in that way and buy the latest and greatest once I get better at driving.
My question is... Would there be a big difference for me to buy a b6.2 vs a b6.4? Or should I really just focus on finding a good 6.4 and not look at any model before that?
Thanks for the help!
My question is... Would there be a big difference for me to buy a b6.2 vs a b6.4? Or should I really just focus on finding a good 6.4 and not look at any model before that?
Thanks for the help!
But on a budget any of the 6.2, 6.3, 6.4 cars will be great. The 6.4s will transfer over 13mm shocks so if you see yourself getting a B7 in the future then thats something to consider. The B6.0 and B6.1 are both much older and not nearly as good, so avoid those.
02-28-2024, 08:51 PM
#9159
Tech Rookie
I got started a few years ago with VERY out dated used buggies and it was frustraiting trying to get them to work. But that was a TLR 2.0 and the 4.0 was the current one and there were HUGE changes. The b6.2 to b6.3 wasnt a big change but the b6.4 was a fairly big change. I still have my 6.4 and 6.2s and they will be good on modern high grip tracks. But I've moved on and built a B7 and LOVE IT. Its so much easier to drive, makes tons of grip and still has great steering, more than the older cars.
But on a budget any of the 6.2, 6.3, 6.4 cars will be great. The 6.4s will transfer over 13mm shocks so if you see yourself getting a B7 in the future then thats something to consider. The B6.0 and B6.1 are both much older and not nearly as good, so avoid those.
But on a budget any of the 6.2, 6.3, 6.4 cars will be great. The 6.4s will transfer over 13mm shocks so if you see yourself getting a B7 in the future then thats something to consider. The B6.0 and B6.1 are both much older and not nearly as good, so avoid those.
02-29-2024, 04:24 AM
#9160
Tech Master
I got started a few years ago with VERY out dated used buggies and it was frustraiting trying to get them to work. But that was a TLR 2.0 and the 4.0 was the current one and there were HUGE changes. The b6.2 to b6.3 wasnt a big change but the b6.4 was a fairly big change. I still have my 6.4 and 6.2s and they will be good on modern high grip tracks. But I've moved on and built a B7 and LOVE IT. Its so much easier to drive, makes tons of grip and still has great steering, more than the older cars.
But on a budget any of the 6.2, 6.3, 6.4 cars will be great. The 6.4s will transfer over 13mm shocks so if you see yourself getting a B7 in the future then thats something to consider. The B6.0 and B6.1 are both much older and not nearly as good, so avoid those.
But on a budget any of the 6.2, 6.3, 6.4 cars will be great. The 6.4s will transfer over 13mm shocks so if you see yourself getting a B7 in the future then thats something to consider. The B6.0 and B6.1 are both much older and not nearly as good, so avoid those.
Basically a B6.x is the way to go, don't go for an original B6 as lots of parts are very hard to get now.
02-29-2024, 05:52 AM
#9161
Tech Rookie
I got a used b6.1 from MHOR rc in Denver a few years ago and I’m still running it. Parts are available locally and on the internet and the car feels great. I’ve had plenty of people drive it that run the latest and greatest and they’ve all said it feels really good. I think finding a good setup and keeping things fresh (shocks, diff, ballcups, etc. . .) are key no matter what platform you’re running. People were winning championships with “old” platforms a few years ago. . . It’s not the car that’s holding me back. B6.x series are all good in my book!
02-29-2024, 06:25 AM
#9162
Tech Rookie
I got a used b6.1 from MHOR rc in Denver a few years ago and I’m still running it. Parts are available locally and on the internet and the car feels great. I’ve had plenty of people drive it that run the latest and greatest and they’ve all said it feels really good. I think finding a good setup and keeping things fresh (shocks, diff, ballcups, etc. . .) are key no matter what platform you’re running. People were winning championships with “old” platforms a few years ago. . . It’s not the car that’s holding me back. B6.x series are all good in my book!
My son and I will be going to MHOR as well, so maybe we'll see you around!
02-29-2024, 04:10 PM
#9163
Whilst I agree with the majority of what you have said here I would like to say that in lower grip conditions the B6.1 is by far the best of the B6 platforms, that is why so many AE drivers in the UK use either a B6.1 or mat least most of the B6.1 rear end on their wet weather cars.
Basically a B6.x is the way to go, don't go for an original B6 as lots of parts are very hard to get now.
Basically a B6.x is the way to go, don't go for an original B6 as lots of parts are very hard to get now.
But any b6.1 but especially .2+ parts are super easy to get they were made for years and all very similar. Same exact gearbox, towers all interchangeable and all that.
03-21-2024, 07:26 AM
#9164
Tech Regular
hi all,
what are the parts to purchase, if i want to convert to 3-gear standup gearbox ?
what are the parts to purchase, if i want to convert to 3-gear standup gearbox ?
03-21-2024, 07:47 AM
#9165
The other option maybe to fit the layback which is just gearbox case and idler gear, then move the wishbones forward using the dremel.
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