649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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10-11-2016, 04:38 PM
#3721
10-11-2016, 05:48 PM
#3726
You pay to play. If you're going to race you're going to break stuff. Suck it up.
10-11-2016, 06:57 PM
#3728
Tech Adept
10-11-2016, 07:04 PM
#3729
If it was arms everyone would cry the arms are too weak. They want a top running, super light weight, indestructible car. AE would never make any money after the kit sold. Stop your whining and cough up the $20 for the part you broke on a nearly indestructible car that you can't even drive to its full potential.
10-11-2016, 07:24 PM
#3730
In other news, I was building my T5M tonight and the shock tower on my B6 snapped in half and spontaneously combusted. Wasn't my fault, I swear. I'm starting a class action lawsuit against AE if anyone wants to join.
10-11-2016, 07:26 PM
#3731
Tech Adept
Carpet off-road not open until tomorrow. Plenty of time to argue 
10-11-2016, 07:59 PM
#3733
Tech Adept
Depends. No clue what type of CF they are using. Could be some garbage composite or could be 3k or 6k twill. Nothing actually posted.
10-11-2016, 07:59 PM
#3734
Love my b6/b6d or whatever we want to call it. Laydown trans and flat arms for the win! Built it with this setup from the start and couldnt be happier!
Quite a few crashes on my first night with the car but seems to be holding up great. No broken towers for me but i am running schelle so we will see how long they hold up.
Quite a few crashes on my first night with the car but seems to be holding up great. No broken towers for me but i am running schelle so we will see how long they hold up.
10-11-2016, 08:42 PM
#3735
Enough with the towers already. Stfu to the whiners. Other buggies with carbon towers are frequently $399 not $299 and don't come in as lightweight as this. Go buy some 4mm aftermarket ones and have the stock as some backup parts.