649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
10-18-2016, 01:42 PM
#3858
Does anyone know the effect of having longer or shorter steering plates on the spindles? EX: Steering block turnbuckle is either has a shortened or lengthened distance from the steering plate. There are aftermarket ones for sale from numerous brands. it would change ackerman. I have another buggy where if the blocks are shortened (smaller lengthening the turnbuckle length) steering gets much more aggressive. However there are ones sold for the b6 that purport steering gets more aggressive with longer carbon steering blocks where the turnbuckle is effectively shorter (ballstud hole closer to servo)?
10-18-2016, 01:48 PM
#3859
Does anyone know the effect of having longer or shorter steering plates on the spindles? EX: Steering block turnbuckle is either has a shortened or lengthened distance from the steering plate. There are aftermarket ones for sale from numerous brands. it would change ackerman. I have another buggy where if the blocks are shortened (smaller lengthening the turnbuckle length) steering gets much more aggressive. However there are ones sold for the b6 that purport steering gets more aggressive with longer carbon steering blocks where the turnbuckle is effectively shorter (ballstud hole closer to servo)?
YMMV
10-18-2016, 02:15 PM
#3860
Im not sure about the ones for the B6, but on the XB2 the steering blocks get shorter and allow the spindle to turn more before hitting on the inside and being at full lock. The B6 looks different in that it doesn't have the same design of a stop, but on the XB2, essentially a longer link(achieved by having a shorter steering block) makes for more steering and make it more aggressive.
YMMV
YMMV
Does anyone know the effect of having longer or shorter steering plates on the spindles? EX: Steering block turnbuckle is either has a shortened or lengthened distance from the steering plate. There are aftermarket ones for sale from numerous brands. it would change ackerman. I have another buggy where if the blocks are shortened (smaller lengthening the turnbuckle length) steering gets much more aggressive. However there are ones sold for the b6 that purport steering gets more aggressive with longer carbon steering blocks where the turnbuckle is effectively shorter (ballstud hole closer to servo)?
From Schelle: The increased Ackermann makes the inside wheel turn in quicker, giving more front end grip through tight turns.
10-18-2016, 03:58 PM
#3861
with the J concepts axles, what will be the difference if I put the included 1mm spacers on the inside vs. outside of the steering block?
Thanks
Thanks
10-18-2016, 04:50 PM
#3862
Tech Master
iTrader: (36)
Does anyone know the effect of having longer or shorter steering plates on the spindles? EX: Steering block turnbuckle is either has a shortened or lengthened distance from the steering plate. There are aftermarket ones for sale from numerous brands. it would change ackerman. I have another buggy where if the blocks are shortened (smaller lengthening the turnbuckle length) steering gets much more aggressive. However there are ones sold for the b6 that purport steering gets more aggressive with longer carbon steering blocks where the turnbuckle is effectively shorter (ballstud hole closer to servo)?
I installed carbon steering arm TYPE-1 from schelle seems I got more aggressive steering in corner than stock.
10-18-2016, 06:50 PM
#3864
The B6D kit doesn't come with wheels, but both the rb6 front and rear wheels will fit and take the same size tires.
10-18-2016, 07:47 PM
#3867
My car pushes with kit setup and that's the only difference I can see. Will try without them. To robsracin's point they have the opposite orientation of what the X-ray type steering arms have for increased steering ... Guess you would know if you've tried both
10-18-2016, 07:54 PM
#3868
I have gone laydown trans on dirt kit. Got the Trifecta wing and just don't want to cut/shape it around the rear rear mounted shocks, so flipped them to the front of the tower/arm.
Did one at a time (left one behind the tower and moved one to the front). Noticed no difference in the rear geometry from one side to the other under compression and droop. Why do we change the eyelets (I just left them the same for now until I get an answer)? I can see the difference if I make a large change in anti-squat, but that isn't the case for now... Thanks
Did one at a time (left one behind the tower and moved one to the front). Noticed no difference in the rear geometry from one side to the other under compression and droop. Why do we change the eyelets (I just left them the same for now until I get an answer)? I can see the difference if I make a large change in anti-squat, but that isn't the case for now... Thanks
10-18-2016, 08:22 PM
#3869
Using the short eyelet on the front keeps the droop the same as a long eyelet on the rear due to the front is raised due to the anti squat that is built in to the rear mount.
10-19-2016, 01:33 AM
#3870
Tech Rookie
I have a B5m thats fully tricked up, not really worth anything here in UK, I know that the schelle rear hubs will fit but I lose axle height adjustment
also looking at it I have ally rear wing mounts, but they would move the wing 10mm forwards,
is this likely to be an issue?
just trying to save parts from waste on the B5m and upgrade the B6 without spending a fortune again LOL
also looking at it I have ally rear wing mounts, but they would move the wing 10mm forwards,
is this likely to be an issue?
just trying to save parts from waste on the B5m and upgrade the B6 without spending a fortune again LOL