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Originally Posted by skrichter
(Post 11815877)
Wolfpack (260g) or Regular pack (~300g). Peeps seem to like the in-between wolfpack.
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 11815814)
I tried a full pack this week and it terrible. I am going to play with shorty positions to ge the right front to rear feel. I thought with the BB it would be plush with the full pack, wrong. Felt like i had no pack and the rear was all over the place. lol, I am about ready to put my v2's back on with the losi pink pistons.
You need to try my setup 100% as specified below: front: 1.6 pistons 30 ae oil black springs 3 limiters inside tower outside arm 24mm ride height 1 balls stud washer rear: 1.6 pistons 27.5 ae oil green springs 2 limiters inside tower inside arm shaved brace 2 washers A hubs 24mm ride height Ballast weight, battery 75% forward (1 pad rear, smaller front). 7g in rear triangles. Diff std to tight. After that, play with rear roll center going up in rear washers for more corner exit stability and down in washers for more infield traction. I have a list of things to try if my car ever gets not awesome, but so far, ain't change'n anything :) Wayne |
Originally Posted by goin2drt
(Post 11814227)
I am sure it has been asked but any set up sheets from this years Reedy Race? I check the AE website and no go.
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
(Post 11815909)
I gotta tell ya man, my b4.19999 is 100% dialed-o-roni-and-cheese with a full size orion battery. My 2wd TQ time would have got me 2nd overall in 4wd buggy--that's how dialed my 2wd is.
You need to try my setup 100% as specified below: front: 1.6 pistons 30 ae oil black springs 3 limiters inside tower outside arm 24mm ride height 1 balls stud washer rear: 1.6 pistons 27.5 ae oil green springs 2 limiters inside tower inside arm shaved brace 2 washers A hubs 24mm ride height Ballast weight, battery 75% forward (1 pad rear, smaller front). 7g in rear triangles. Diff std to tight. After that, play with rear roll center going up in rear washers for more corner exit stability and down in washers for more infield traction. I have a list of things to try if my car ever gets not awesome, but so far, ain't change'n anything :) Wayne |
I run the Cavalari West Coast Super Nats set up and it works good, but I run a shorty and two small pads in th rear and a big pad up front. I have tried both with and without the rear weight under the tranny and I can tell a little difference, but I think runnin that all depends on what track you run. The car felt a little different in the rear end (just more planted). If you have not lot of stearin try putting 2 like Jconcepts weights riht in front of the servo to the outside, it helps so there is no to much push.
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 11815814)
I tried a full pack this week and it terrible. I am going to play with shorty positions to ge the right front to rear feel. I thought with the BB it would be plush with the full pack, wrong. Felt like i had no pack and the rear was all over the place. lol, I am about ready to put my v2's back on with the losi pink pistons.
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Originally Posted by SAGISI
(Post 11815912)
I think AE is too busy winning races to post the Reedy setup. Kyosho and TLR beat AE to posting there Reedy setups :eek::eek:
Eli you have a good WCRC set up for your B4.2? Just coming back to AE after visiting K cars and looking for a good starting set up when I am building. Thanks. |
Originally Posted by Razathorn
(Post 11815909)
I gotta tell ya man, my b4.19999 is 100% dialed-o-roni-and-cheese with a full size orion battery. My 2wd TQ time would have got me 2nd overall in 4wd buggy--that's how dialed my 2wd is.
You need to try my setup 100% as specified below: front: 1.6 pistons 30 ae oil black springs 3 limiters inside tower outside arm 24mm ride height 1 balls stud washer rear: 1.6 pistons 27.5 ae oil green springs 2 limiters inside tower inside arm shaved brace 2 washers A hubs 24mm ride height Ballast weight, battery 75% forward (1 pad rear, smaller front). 7g in rear triangles. Diff std to tight. After that, play with rear roll center going up in rear washers for more corner exit stability and down in washers for more infield traction. I have a list of things to try if my car ever gets not awesome, but so far, ain't change'n anything :) Wayne |
Originally Posted by goin2drt
(Post 11816053)
Thanks.
Eli you have a good WCRC set up for your B4.2? Just coming back to AE after visiting K cars and looking for a good starting set up when I am building. Thanks. Go on rc10.com and look up steven hartsons setup from 11/4/12, im basically running that minus the electronics and the weight behind the servo since im running a different battery. For my heavier car set-up its basically the full pack all the way back with no rear ballast weight just 5 or 7 grams in the rear triangles and im currently using 20 grams next to my reciever and just 1mm under the front ball stud, with the wolfpack which i hope to try sunday i will be using the rear ballast weight. For tires i ran my reedy set(front gold barcodes with jc cc insert, rear pl v1 suburbs with PL cc foam) since i knew they worked. I should also add that i am using the exotek rear hubs which have a slightly different roll center and since i used the supplied washer on the hub side only which raised the A hub setting by about a mm only because i thought it would help reduce a ball stud break but im going to take it out or add the inside washer if that makes sense to get close to the stock hub characteristics but when i did put them in the only change i felt was a little more consistency in the rear so its not like it was a night and day difference( my slopped out plastic hubs probably didnt help that). My gearing with the full pack is a 81/24 and sometimes i turn my epa down a smidge, wolfpack i would run a 23. Also camber i have been at -1 havent tried -.5 Hope this helps, feel free to PM me or ask on here, i gotta get back to work lol. |
Originally Posted by Razathorn
(Post 11815909)
I gotta tell ya man, my b4.19999 is 100% dialed-o-roni-and-cheese with a full size orion battery. My 2wd TQ time would have got me 2nd overall in 4wd buggy--that's how dialed my 2wd is.
You need to try my setup 100% as specified below: front: 1.6 pistons 30 ae oil black springs 3 limiters inside tower outside arm 24mm ride height 1 balls stud washer rear: 1.6 pistons 27.5 ae oil green springs 2 limiters inside tower inside arm shaved brace 2 washers A hubs 24mm ride height Ballast weight, battery 75% forward (1 pad rear, smaller front). 7g in rear triangles. Diff std to tight. After that, play with rear roll center going up in rear washers for more corner exit stability and down in washers for more infield traction. I have a list of things to try if my car ever gets not awesome, but so far, ain't change'n anything :) Wayne |
Originally Posted by GettinLapped
(Post 11816284)
What track surface do you run on? Looking for a good clay setup.
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i was running at 24mm ride height and it felt like crap. I dropped it to 22 front 21 read and it felt so much better. Only problem i have is my rear slides out, ALOT.
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Originally Posted by GizmoTLR
(Post 11816799)
i was running at 24mm ride height and it felt like crap. I dropped it to 22 front 21 read and it felt so much better. Only problem i have is my rear slides out, ALOT.
What felt bad? |
Couple of questions for you guys. On the set up sheets some of the set up sheets call for 1/2oz "Behind" the servo, to me that would mean in the battery tray? I think they mean in "front" of the servo under the steering link? Are you guys checking ride height on the rear under the gearbox or under the front part of the T plate. Took a couple years off to run TLR but really glad to be back running RC10's!
Thank You Dax |
Originally Posted by Razathorn
(Post 11816834)
That's because you removed all your roll from the rear. You rarely lower the b4 lower than 24mm. Sometimes you even raise it up to 25 for traction.
What felt bad? |
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