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Originally Posted by 66Racer
(Post 11817827)
Gold barcodes are great when they keep the track moist, but its so hit n miss on practice days, sometimes its wet but seems lately they let the top get dry and dusty. I think going to wcrc ruined me since they have so much grip there lol
I am even tempted to mount some hole shots for the dry dusty days because I have messed with springs and shims, etc I'm convinced its my tire at this point (and driving lol) during the dusty days |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11817586)
Nice to get the word from your track ...
Was really disappointed with the handle bar not working out , really had my hopes up for AkA on this ... I will be testing the new Sweeps tomorrow . Stay tuned to this channel...:batman: |
Originally Posted by gticlay
(Post 11817837)
Have you worn them down to near-slicks? That's what everyone tells me is the hot setup there. We like the same tires, worn about 95% of what you like up in B'ham. Maybe they are too new and not enough traction treatments yet? Dammit I want to try them!
Originally Posted by Razathorn
(Post 11817836)
Tried square fuzzies? Do those even come in MC?
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Originally Posted by gticlay
(Post 11817837)
Have you worn them down to near-slicks? That's what everyone tells me is the hot setup there. We like the same tires, worn about 95% of what you like up in B'ham. Maybe they are too new and not enough traction treatments yet? Dammit I want to try them!
Got 4 packs on um today, they are well scuffed.... I used sauce on the last two packs and it help a little ... I do not believe worn down or baldie's would been much of a benefit as the track was rather dusty today ... |
Originally Posted by Eli
(Post 11815689)
Im not sure which battery you are running but i seem to like a heavier pack on a looser track surface. You did go down a spring rate so thats a good thing. Maybe leave the same set-up and springs you run on the high grip track and try a full size pack like the reedy 5500 60c i believe it is, they weight about 306 grams. I was running one without the rear ballast weight just weight in the rear triangles and battery forward and it was really good with white rear spring and gree nfront spring and same oil and pistons. I would also try the A hubs if you dont already have them on and 2mm on the inner ball studs front and rear and maybe 3.5 toe block. Im not saying the heavy pack is the answer but if you have one laying around give it a shot. Just this last race day i tried what most of the team guys are running in practice and liked it since i came to the track with a slightly different set-up on my car and didnt end up running my current "heavy car set-up" but think im gonna go back to it for my local track.
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Originally Posted by 66Racer
(Post 11817847)
That's personally why I try them every now n then, I probably have only 30-45mins of driving on mine. Their clay compound seems more firm than a gold barcode so the insert I'm guessing needs to be softer? I just know in their current state barcodes feel better so far. think its a track issue too.
Was thinking of a tread like that, hole shots right? But with the release of the ion tires I was thinking of getting those first. |
Probably been asked before , but What's the difference between a B4.1WC & a B4.2?
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According to the B4.2 instruction manual, you don't need to use any extra washers behind the front shock standoff (#1780). Is the front tower cut-out like the rear?
Considering purchasing the AVID new standoffs if knew which ones to get. |
Originally Posted by skrichter
(Post 11818867)
According to the B4.2 instruction manual, you don't need to use any extra washers behind the front shock standoff (#1780). Is the front tower cut-out like the rear?
Considering purchasing the AVID new standoffs if knew which ones to get. |
Originally Posted by ForwardBite
(Post 11818822)
Probably been asked before , but What's the difference between a B4.1WC & a B4.2?
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Originally Posted by ForwardBite
(Post 11818822)
Probably been asked before , but What's the difference between a B4.1WC & a B4.2?
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Originally Posted by ForwardBite
(Post 11818822)
Probably been asked before , but What's the difference between a B4.1WC & a B4.2?
I was going to say check the 1st page, but I did & didn't see it spelled out. This probably should be listed sepperate on the 1st page (wildcat?). Factory Team 12mm "Big Bore" hard anodized aluminum threaded shocks with TiN "Gold" 3mm shock shafts VTS slipper (variable torque, multi-plate slipper with 3 drive surfaces) assembly featuring a high-resolution spring Factory Team blue aluminum bellcrank set Factory Team 12mm blue aluminum front and rear clamping hexes with hex wheels Updated shock towers optimized for the 12mm "Big Bore" shocks |
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 11818358)
Eli, how do you like the Exotek hubs? Good bearing and hinge pin fit? What about BB clearance?
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Originally Posted by 2canSAM
(Post 11818903)
The newer shock towers (same part number as the old one so it is a running change) has an offset pad on the front tower. There are some comparison pics located a few pages back that shows the pad. So if your not using the new shock tower you will still need to use washers or dremel some of the tower.
Front Tower... B4.2 on the left, B4.1 on the right. http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...547CB530FB.jpg http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...5474652F74.jpg Rear Tower... B4.2 (The only change vs B4.1 rear tower, is the notch for the BB's) http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...7E591CC15D.jpg |
Originally Posted by turbo2cam
(Post 11819073)
I will leave these pics in my photobucket if 07forester wants to add these to the first page so this question doesn't come up all of the time...(Also, Wildcat if you want to add it to the B4.1 thread, feel free)
Front Tower... B4.2 on the left, B4.1 on the right. http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...547CB530FB.jpg http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...5474652F74.jpg Rear Tower... B4.2 (The only change vs B4.1 rear tower, is the notch for the BB's) http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...7E591CC15D.jpg THERE IS NOT A DIFFERENT PART # FOR THE NEW TOWERS. IT IS A RUNNING CHANGE. THE ONLY WAY TO MAKE SURE YOU GET THE NEW TOWERS IS TO INSPECT THEM BEFORE BUYING. |
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