Agreed. What's the best front tire and front/rear foam setup for you? I'm partial to worn in AKA foams all around and gold barcodes up front.

I'm running gold barcodes up front. I usually use stock rears trimmed slightly and stuffed in there but I didn't have any on me so I got some Bomb 1 from my buddy and it is a little stiff at first but gets softer over a few days at the track and I really am liking them so far. And I also really like the AKA foams in the rear

Slipper clutch setup?
 

Hi All,

Firstly, sorry if this has been covered before but I couldn't find the answer i'm looking for with a reasonable search...

I've put my first racing buggy together (B4.2) & am pretty happy with the build for the most part. But... I'm all at sea with regard to the setup of the slipper. Is there a rule of thumb for setting it up?

BTW, i'm running a Hobbywing Xerun combo, 17.5T brushless motor (AU stock class) with 120A ESC.

Thanks in advance for any tips. :nod:

This has all the info you will need:http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html

I'm going on 3 months with my kit and haven't broken a single bulk head.

I don't think I ever broke a bulkhead. I did recently switch to the aluminum one just for the weight and looks. I can't see how these are breaking so often for others

Everyone else have to trim the front tower so that the shock adjusters move or just space it out a bit more?

Couldn't just throw another .5mm shim under the upper shock mount?

I trimmed mine. The thing is, I trimmed both my front and rear to my liking. I figure they would break for sure. Well that has not happened and I have had some vicious tumbles. Just this past weekend, someone clipped me as I hit a double at full speed. I think my buggy bounced and flipped a good 20 feet and nothing broke (soft outdoor wet clay). So if you need to grind a little, I am sure it will be fine, just dont go crazy. Also, fo those of you using C hubs and still scraping up your shocks. Just mount the hubs on the backside and put 2mm washers under the stud. You wont ever rub and moving the link on the horizontal plane does not seem to affect handling at all. If you are using the A hubs and rubbing, look at the exotek rear hubs. The vertical ball stud positioning helps to move the link further away from the turnbuckle. I use Lunsford turnbuckles which are thicker than the AE ones, so a few shims are not cutting it for me. I tried .090 shims on the bottom, cut the tower and used the Carbon A towers and still rubbed slightly with the lunsfords.

new kit
 

did anyone get upper aluminum shock mounts that are tight? really tight? i was hoping it wasn't the shock caps...but it turns out its the shock mounts. I'm pretty sure i'm going plastic anyways. other than this small detail...kit is very smooth!

This seems to be a common issue but really a non-issue. It will break in or you can use a green pad (Scotchbrite) and twist the shock mounts in a folded over pad and this will help.

This will work. I put the shock mount in a drill and spun it while holding some fine sandpaper to sand off some material (same idea as above)

I don't think I got much deeper than removing the anodization before it worked.

Tighter diff is less steering and more forward bite correct?

Yup! Acts like positraction as on a fullsize car but sacrifices straight line stabiltiy going through a washboard or bumpy section.

I think mine is too loose. I am having issues accelerating out of the corners. The rear feels unstable. This week in the main the track lost traction and 1/3 up the straight, I was fish tailing if I tried to get more into the throttle. I have my diff set to 1/2 lift on the slipper setting, any tighter slipper and the diff will bark. So I might tighten it a little. I started running it really light with the v2 shocks to get more steering in the corners. But the BB shock have introduced a lot of steering themselves, so I might tighten her a little. I still dont have the consistence I did with the v2 shocks. Mostly because my rear seems loose. I tried a few different tires, but that is not really fixing it. I think I am diffing out a little come out of the corners or when the track is a little looser.