Tekno SCT410 Thread
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
I cut weight up top from the start and then the bce came out. I picked that up for the flex that's tuned into it, weight savings was a byproduct for me, not a goal. I have added some of the weight back with lead at the back of the chassis... not the full 80g but about half and where I want it.
Anyone have part numbers for the Aluminum wheel hexes, and aluminum servo horn? Luckily I have a local dealer that carries Tekno.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
The servo horn (25 T) is TKR5253
and the hexes are TKR5571A
and the hexes are TKR5571A
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
That's the standard offset hex, the +1mm offset hex is TKR1654X and its still within ROAR width limit.
Options.
There's a bunch of info for getting the truck together on the first page too.
Options.
There's a bunch of info for getting the truck together on the first page too.
I have a question on the droop . I noticed that even with the droop screws screwed in all the way into the arms you dont get full droop . Just where there touching the chassis which is fine . I have the screws where the button head is hitting the chassis of course.
So i just have them with the screws touching the chassis . But if you flip them around without the button head touching the chassis it digs into the chassis to much which is bad but you can get full droop.
I tried the Mugen droop screws they do work but there shorter than the Tekno ones. I just like them because you can screw them on the top.
I rather have the droop screws where there just touching the chassis anyways . Dont want the shock shaft to pull out.
So i just have them with the screws touching the chassis . But if you flip them around without the button head touching the chassis it digs into the chassis to much which is bad but you can get full droop.
I tried the Mugen droop screws they do work but there shorter than the Tekno ones. I just like them because you can screw them on the top.
I rather have the droop screws where there just touching the chassis anyways . Dont want the shock shaft to pull out.
Last edited by tc5 man; 04-03-2014 at 07:43 PM.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
There are plenty of vehicles without droop screws that do not have shock shafts falling out.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
What's the question ?
What i mean is the droop screws are touching the droop pads when there off the ground. I had to flip the droop screws around because if you have the button head on the top it will dig into the chassis . So i have the button head part of the screw on the bottom. But with it screw in all the way you have it where its touching the chassis . Inless you move the droop screws which i iffy on with this truck.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
Here are some pic of my new body using the Proline body mounts and the T-Bone Front Bumper.
wish my phone shot better pics.
Randy
wish my phone shot better pics.
Randy
Man I am going through my truck before tomorrow's race night and I notice that something dont look right. Turns out I am missing a rear hinge pin holder so my rear arm has been flopping around for God knows how long....great. Good thing about it is I have a 2nd and a 3rd place finish under my belt, I thought that something felt and looked squirrley, I have to start paying better attention. The details my friends......the details. Either way I fixed it and hope it feels better tomorrow.
I know the scte i used to run handles the best with no droop screws . I never had the shaft pull out but that truck was much lighter especially the MIP conversion compared this truck .
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)