Tekno SCT410 Thread
Tech Rookie
Shock rebound
So tonight i took the springs off in order to take the orings off of the shocks ( read that these were mainly for high bite conditions and most of the tracks around here are either hard packed with a layer of dust or loose dirt). When i removed the spring on the left rear shock the shock was still rebounding out all the way to full extension. I know this isnt correct and rebuilt it to match the right rear, but still wasnt able to get 0% rebound. Without the spring it still pushes back out between a quarter and a half an inch. My question is is this ok? And what ill handling effects would be caused by the rebound being as far off as it was? I actually won a race setup this way last weekend lol. Sorry for the long post and all the newb problems.
I have a question on the droop . I noticed that even with the droop screws screwed in all the way into the arms you dont get full droop . Just where there touching the chassis which is fine . I have the screws where the button head is hitting the chassis of course.
So i just have them with the screws touching the chassis . But if you flip them around without the button head touching the chassis it digs into the chassis to much which is bad but you can get full droop.
I tried the Mugen droop screws they do work but there shorter than the Tekno ones. I just like them because you can screw them on the top.
I rather have the droop screws where there just touching the chassis anyways . Dont want the shock shaft to pull out.
So i just have them with the screws touching the chassis . But if you flip them around without the button head touching the chassis it digs into the chassis to much which is bad but you can get full droop.
I tried the Mugen droop screws they do work but there shorter than the Tekno ones. I just like them because you can screw them on the top.
I rather have the droop screws where there just touching the chassis anyways . Dont want the shock shaft to pull out.
I ran the FTW body and the nissan titan body back to back tonight, several packs with both and what I found is you were right CHUCKTEE the FTW does glide around the track nicely very nimble feeling and better steering too. but the nissan titan body is MUCH more planted feeling especially in the high speed straight away the FTW seemed very light and squirly while the down force of the titan kept ti very stable and predictable, also the rear traction is hands down far better with the titan that little built in wing really does its job, in my opinion the slight steering gain is not worth the loss of traction, I was much faster with the titan and able to be much more aggressive with the throttle = more fun. *all settings were the same for both bodies, only the ride height was adjusted.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
I have a question on the droop . I noticed that even with the droop screws screwed in all the way into the arms you dont get full droop . Just where there touching the chassis which is fine . I have the screws where the button head is hitting the chassis of course.
So i just have them with the screws touching the chassis . But if you flip them around without the button head touching the chassis it digs into the chassis to much which is bad but you can get full droop.
I tried the Mugen droop screws they do work but there shorter than the Tekno ones. I just like them because you can screw them on the top.
I rather have the droop screws where there just touching the chassis anyways . Dont want the shock shaft to pull out.
So i just have them with the screws touching the chassis . But if you flip them around without the button head touching the chassis it digs into the chassis to much which is bad but you can get full droop.
I tried the Mugen droop screws they do work but there shorter than the Tekno ones. I just like them because you can screw them on the top.
I rather have the droop screws where there just touching the chassis anyways . Dont want the shock shaft to pull out.
I can't upload pictures from my phone but if you go to this link it links to my thread on RCshortcourse and has some information on the tabs on pages 2 & 3
There are some pictures on there where you can see the difference in the BCE tabs compared to the stock chassis tabs
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...no-sct410.html
I ran the FTW body and the nissan titan body back to back tonight, several packs with both and what I found is you were right CHUCKTEE the FTW does glide around the track nicely very nimble feeling and better steering too. but the nissan titan body is MUCH more planted feeling especially in the high speed straight away the FTW seemed very light and squirly while the down force of the titan kept ti very stable and predictable, also the rear traction is hands down far better with the titan that little built in wing really does its job, in my opinion the slight steering gain is not worth the loss of traction, I was much faster with the titan and able to be much more aggressive with the throttle = more fun. *all settings were the same for both bodies, only the ride height was adjusted.
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
Man I am going through my truck before tomorrow's race night and I notice that something dont look right. Turns out I am missing a rear hinge pin holder so my rear arm has been flopping around for God knows how long....great. Good thing about it is I have a 2nd and a 3rd place finish under my belt, I thought that something felt and looked squirrley, I have to start paying better attention. The details my friends......the details. Either way I fixed it and hope it feels better tomorrow.
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
the AVID pins make it really easy to measure droop!
just the one on the FTW
hard to see the body is getting worn but the nissan has the lower cutouts which are essential for the down force, the upper cutouts by the cab i might try without next time or make them smaller as it weakened the body.
I would say if you have plenty of traction go with the FTW but if you want more rear traction and stability then go nissan
I accidentally ran the 6500 smc instead of my 7200 in a PNB 10 min qualifier with one warm up lap. It did start to fall off around the last couple of laps, but was able to finish without noticing too much difference.
Current limit was around 60% and the track was pretty hazardous so I was running slow and steady.
Current limit was around 60% and the track was pretty hazardous so I was running slow and steady.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
just the one on the FTW
hard to see the body is getting worn but the nissan has the lower cutouts which are essential for the down force, the upper cutouts by the cab i might try without next time or make them smaller as it weakened the body.
I would say if you have plenty of traction go with the FTW but if you want more rear traction and stability then go nissan
Mine cracked in the center spine piece on the first body that I cut the upper holes out too.
It handles just as well so I'm leaving that part as is and just running the down force cutouts.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (226)
Anyone have a good setup for an rutted outdoor track?
I accidentally ran the 6500 smc instead of my 7200 in a PNB 10 min qualifier with one warm up lap. It did start to fall off around the last couple of laps, but was able to finish without noticing too much difference.
Current limit was around 60% and the track was pretty hazardous so I was running slow and steady.
Current limit was around 60% and the track was pretty hazardous so I was running slow and steady.
just the one on the FTW
hard to see the body is getting worn but the nissan has the lower cutouts which are essential for the down force, the upper cutouts by the cab i might try without next time or make them smaller as it weakened the body.
I would say if you have plenty of traction go with the FTW but if you want more rear traction and stability then go nissan
I'm on my second Titan body and only cut out the spoiler part. I left the top of the bed uncut. Front was not cut on both.
Mine cracked in the center spine piece on the first body that I cut the upper holes out too.
It handles just as well so I'm leaving that part as is and just running the down force cutouts.
Mine cracked in the center spine piece on the first body that I cut the upper holes out too.
It handles just as well so I'm leaving that part as is and just running the down force cutouts.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)