ChuckTee

To each their own, its like set ups what is dialed for one is all messy for the next. I have ran both and I have a big "mountain" crossover jump with a big fall to the straight and I would get too much float with the Titan and would spend time correcting before i could take off down the straight. Other than that I like the body. Thats my reason for going to the FTW and I didnt have an issue with the straights feeling loose, but hey thats why I like it...works for me. They are both good bodies its all personal preference and feel.

Jtipsy

iTrader: (11)

On the Nissan body i am on my second one and had the first one cut like rv second one i cut the whole lower rear ones and cut the tops 3mm from the cut line to keep some extra material around the center beam section.

Hoese37

iTrader: (5)

Ok I just heard back from Bruce @Xtreme. The 5MM CF rear tower for the SCT/EB/NB would be right around $30. Let me now if you want one, and I can setup to buy a run of these.

Resqnu

iTrader: (37)

Thanks for the info.

rvinvents

iTrader: (9)

thanks that's good to know, I was worried that not cutting out the upper part would affect handling. I am sticking with the titan.

rvinvents

iTrader: (9)

I meant no offense chucktee, I am sure I will get it dialed in on the traction, I was only stating what I observed without making any set up changes I do really like the other areas of the handling. Question are you running the side air guards? I did put those on for the first time same night both bodies.

rvinvents

iTrader: (9)

chucktee could answer that better than I. I have only had my FTW on the track for one night, the titan I am going on around two months I think, it is a little brittle in spots DONT CUT OUT THE FULL UPPER CUTOUTS it makes it too weak. IMO

fq06

iTrader: (12)

I ran the FTW on my Mugen last year and its a nice body. The rear posts ripped through the bed very quickly though. IMO because the molded in roll bar is too close to the post holes.
It could have been a fluke couple of wrecks that took out the rear post area, who knows. Maybe the proline post screws will help with that.

I CA'd plastic washers in to make it live a little longer and the rest of the shell held up very well. No cracks & tears in the usual places up by the front fender & cab, very durable I must say.

That body is actually very old and the fenders don't extend out as far as the newer bodies do to cater to the trucks that get out to the 297mm width limit. I had to cut far up the fender to give the rear tires room and even then there was a lot of contact and rubbing in the rear.

I would love to see Avid do a V2 of that body and give the bed a flat deck for the posts and pull the fenders out a bit while keeping its narrow middle section. I think it would be the top body by far if they tweaked it a little and I would get in line to buy one from the first batch.

The Nissan isn't perfect either, the sharp edges of the headlights are the first to go. Shoegoo the hell out of that area. And where the fenders meet up to the windshield, that area is not as smooth of a transition and an area to invest a liitle goo in also.



I should add that I'm running at indoor tracks. Outdoor with wind you might want to open the top vents up a little... maybe not. Try it with just the lowers opened up first.

ChuckTee

None taken my friend. To each their own, good luck out there. Also no I dont run the side air guards

ChuckTee

I thought that the Titan body held up well but like rvin said about the cut outs I would have to second that one I busted the back of mine the second time out with it. Also I noticed that the front area by the lights started to tear. I only ran it for about 2 weeks because I coudnt get it to work for me. I have been running the FTW body for month's now so I dont think I could really give a true reading on the Titan. Like I said before they are both good bodies and bodies are one of those things that do go some what quickly due to the class we are running. So I dont expect way too much outta bodies when it comes to durability, I am more after the performance and am willing to buy a new one every other month or so. I get bored anyways so I get a new one to paint to keep me busy.

Resqnu

iTrader: (37)

^^^^^ Great info guys.. thanks

Madjake

Fioroni pistons what oil and springs are you guys running.

purple rides

I'm running 30f/25r and green front/ yellow rear springs

tc5 man

Guys with the stock chassis do you add lead weight on the Rear end if you remove the center and Rear chassis brace ? I can defietly tell the Rear is lighter than the Front now.

rvinvents

iTrader: (9)

I added 30 grams of weight in the left rear of chassis and it helped and it could still take even more, but i noticed a bigger traction gain from switching bodies the two i found that had great rear traction was the nissan titan and the f250 super duty, they both have the built in wing which gives gobs of down force in the rear, but the f250 is very long and is slower to rotate in corners.