17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
02-22-2014, 08:30 PM
Yea i was wondering if the RC8 droop screws would fit also if there the same leagth and size as the Tekno droop. Screws i think they would be fine travel wise .
I fliped my around because it was digging into the chassis to much . Im thinking of making a slot into the top of the droop screws. so its much easier to adjust like the RC8 ones.
I fliped my around because it was digging into the chassis to much . Im thinking of making a slot into the top of the droop screws. so its much easier to adjust like the RC8 ones.
02-22-2014, 08:51 PM
The AE screw is the same.
02-22-2014, 08:57 PM
This guy machined pockets that he could replace plugs when worn.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12652101-post122.html
Then associated makes a droop screw which like Chuck said has a hex in both ends so you can have the button side of the head hitting the chassis but still make adjustments from the top.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...d-Droop-Screws
The head is probably going to limit doop too much on the Tekno though. Haven't tried myself.
Mine is barely warn after a few months of driving though, I would just run it and keep an eye on it.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12652101-post122.html
Then associated makes a droop screw which like Chuck said has a hex in both ends so you can have the button side of the head hitting the chassis but still make adjustments from the top.
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...d-Droop-Screws
The head is probably going to limit doop too much on the Tekno though. Haven't tried myself.
Mine is barely warn after a few months of driving though, I would just run it and keep an eye on it.
Mugen Rebound Stop Adjusting Screw
[MUGE0183]
Low Price: $4.59
02-22-2014, 09:08 PM
It happens but I think one of the problems is I switched out the screw that holds the motor in place with a big socket style head instead of the regular button head and ever since the switch I have had the issue more often so I think Im going to try the OG screw and see if it go's away. When I had the OG screw as long as I made sure to set the mesh right and had the motor straight with a little
blue losi thread lock and it held up way better.
blue losi thread lock and it held up way better.
UPDATE
after a bit of reading on the eb48 thread I found that the buggy guys are saying the motor mount has been updated to fix the problem, for us the motor only moves but the buggy guys were breaking some of the motor mounts,
Last edited by rvinvents; 02-22-2014 at 10:09 PM. Reason: updated info
02-22-2014, 10:23 PM
Hope to see a new one at the track to see how much they tightened up the mount. There's a big tolerance between the two parts and that needed to get tightened up. Probably not going to spend the coin though before I can put an eye on it.
02-22-2014, 10:25 PM
Just to be clear I am talking about the mesh adjustment screws one on top of the mount and the other is underneath accessed through the slot in the chassis, even if I get them real tight and red loc-tite it will still give on impact and the screws don't come loose either the motor and half of the mount moves.
UPDATE
after a bit of reading on the eb48 thread I found that the buggy guys are saying the motor mount has been updated to fix the problem, for us the motor only moves but the buggy guys were breaking some of the motor mounts,
UPDATE
after a bit of reading on the eb48 thread I found that the buggy guys are saying the motor mount has been updated to fix the problem, for us the motor only moves but the buggy guys were breaking some of the motor mounts,
02-22-2014, 10:35 PM
you can see the difference between the tkr5210 and the tkr5210x on the tekno site, my mount resembles the 5210x which is the lightened version, maybe all sct410's came with the lightened version? the 5210 is not open at the end and does not have the thin little rail guides. i have an email in to tekno about this because its driving me nuts LOL I hate the sound when it moves and the meshis at an angle, it seems to wear out more each time it moves too which would explain why yours is getting worse chucktee, i will post the reply from tekno for you guys when they get back to me.
02-22-2014, 11:28 PM
I think the thing that would really fix that is the ethier the Alum center diff mount piece or the Alum long center driveshaft.
02-23-2014, 12:26 AM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
you can see the difference between the tkr5210 and the tkr5210x on the tekno site, my mount resembles the 5210x which is the lightened version, maybe all sct410's came with the lightened version? the 5210 is not open at the end and does not have the thin little rail guides. i have an email in to tekno about this because its driving me nuts LOL I hate the sound when it moves and the meshis at an angle, it seems to wear out more each time it moves too which would explain why yours is getting worse chucktee, i will post the reply from tekno for you guys when they get back to me.
02-23-2014, 11:02 AM
Here is an updated version of my setup sheet. Some information was originally missing.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Z...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Z...it?usp=sharing
02-23-2014, 01:28 PM
Tech Adept
Here is an updated version of my setup sheet. Some information was originally missing.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Z...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Z...it?usp=sharing
02-23-2014, 03:32 PM
Thanks.
Im am curious though on the shock oil weight you used in the Front shocks why so heavy was it to calm down steering im guessing or all the Front weight on the SC410 ? And the 10 in the Front diff how is that compared to the 7k ? And heavyer diff oil on the Rear diff also ?
Im coming from the SCTE 1.0 and MIP SCTE thats why im wondering.
Im am curious though on the shock oil weight you used in the Front shocks why so heavy was it to calm down steering im guessing or all the Front weight on the SC410 ? And the 10 in the Front diff how is that compared to the 7k ? And heavyer diff oil on the Rear diff also ?
Im coming from the SCTE 1.0 and MIP SCTE thats why im wondering.
02-23-2014, 08:06 PM
02-23-2014, 08:24 PM
Either the 7200mah SMCs or the 7600 90C IP packs from promatch. I have the 7200mah versions and they are excellent, I also like the 5mm bullet connectors you can get them with. promatch also offers a 1 year warranty on there packs.
http://www.promatchracing.com/prodde...prod=2s760090c
http://www.promatchracing.com/prodde...prod=2s760090c
I know I could complain to ProMatch but that's not the way I roll. If a product doesn't work for me I just don't buy any more, I'd rather do that than bitch about minor bullshit. I'm not saying PM batteries are bad I'm not have great luck with them. Been down the same road with women too!!!! I'm such a funny guy! All my X wives thought I was hilarious!
02-23-2014, 08:45 PM
