Tekno SCT410 Thread
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
I run a 15t to 16t on my HW 4700 at medium/large indoor tracks. If your running a 13t, your motor will be cool and the esc will be hot. Still anything under 200° is not bad. Tekins thermal doesn't kick in till 260° or somewhere in that neighborhood. I dont know HW's number but I would guess over 200° at least.
Try a 15t if your running the 4700. If your running the 4000 I would think 17 is correct but I havent ran that kv so can't say from experience.
How many minutes do you get before it cuts?
Try a 15t if your running the 4700. If your running the 4000 I would think 17 is correct but I havent ran that kv so can't say from experience.
How many minutes do you get before it cuts?
some races it would cut 2 min in, others i ran whole race. i started at 17, motor was cold/esc way hot. dropped to a 14, esc still hotter than motor. plus, i wasnt topping out on the straight till the end. am i going the wrong way on gears?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
13t is wrong for the 4000 or the 4700. A 14t would be topped out a little past 1/2 down the straight at the tracks I run at and yours doesn't sound too terribly small. The straight runs the full length?
That esc may not be up to the weight and amp demands of this truck. I think I have heard of a couple people running the 3.1 in this truck but I believe that esc is intended to be used in lighter 1/10 vehicles.
If no one here responds that is using that esc ask in the HW forum.
That esc may not be up to the weight and amp demands of this truck. I think I have heard of a couple people running the 3.1 in this truck but I believe that esc is intended to be used in lighter 1/10 vehicles.
If no one here responds that is using that esc ask in the HW forum.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
From the HW thread... but a couple posts above that rc phreak says that he uses it withiht issue in his tekno. Kind of a non answer but HW says thats not an esc for heavy 1/10 running 545 four pole motors.
The v3 series esc's use a pure 100% sensored signal for 1/10th touring cars and buggies for 540 motors its is not made for sct 's etc .The sct pro is for scts which runs a automatic dual switching mode which works great with large 4 pole motors and above.
Please read my post 2 pages back and you will understand how it all works .
Yes some motors will work some wont with the v3 all depends on currents and magnetic field produced by the motors dont forget stators and rotors and sensor boards are all in one small confined space so as the motor heats there is a big chance that the sensored signal will be distorted causing the error to occur.
Run SCT pro which is made for these applications and you will not have an issue.
Please read my post 2 pages back and you will understand how it all works .
Yes some motors will work some wont with the v3 all depends on currents and magnetic field produced by the motors dont forget stators and rotors and sensor boards are all in one small confined space so as the motor heats there is a big chance that the sensored signal will be distorted causing the error to occur.
Run SCT pro which is made for these applications and you will not have an issue.
13t is wrong for the 4000 or the 4700. A 14t would be topped out a little past 1/2 down the straight at the tracks I run at and yours doesn't sound too terribly small. The straight runs the full length?
That esc may not be up to the weight and amp demands of this truck. I think I have heard of a couple people running the 3.1 in this truck but I believe that esc is intended to be used in lighter 1/10 vehicles.
If no one here responds that is using that esc ask in the HW forum.
That esc may not be up to the weight and amp demands of this truck. I think I have heard of a couple people running the 3.1 in this truck but I believe that esc is intended to be used in lighter 1/10 vehicles.
If no one here responds that is using that esc ask in the HW forum.
I run a 16t on my hw4000, and after 6 minutes, my motor was about 150F it was 82F outside and I drive on a loose dirt track so I get a lot of wheel spin.
Had a great day of racing, our track got very very rough, and the sct410 handled very well, people were asking me what my setup was. I won the last 2 heats and then came in second in the main with a broke wheel, shocked I actually finished.
FYI, it was an aka wheel.
I wish tekno made cvd boots like the d812. If they did, that would probably make me switch my d8 to a nb48
I have run them all and I am running the pro4hd I think overall it's the smoothest with more than enough power. The Tenshock sc411 4600 is great but draws an assload of amps and is pretty hard on the batteries. The HW 3656sd is all out monster that is fast as all can be I just didn't like the the throttle curve I guess. Wasn't very smooth but I adjusted to it and liked it a lot. Overall the Tekin fits me better so that's why I am using it. All are good and will get the job done I think it comes to personal preference. I had all 3 paired up with a Tekin RX8G2
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
Yeah, "all competitions of 1/10" is a little suspect. As soon as you say all, everything, absolute... you will be wrong at some point.
Side note... you would think a big company like that would go one step further than using google translate to write the product description
Side note... you would think a big company like that would go one step further than using google translate to write the product description
Tech Champion
iTrader: (12)
@ honda
Wouldn't Mugen cvd boots work? Or just about any other 1/8 cvd boot?
Back in the day running mbx-5 I used duratrax boots because they were a fraction of the price of Mugens and they both get ripped the same from pebbles. Didn't really matter who's boot it was, just needed to slip over the axle and hang out for a couple race days.
Wouldn't Mugen cvd boots work? Or just about any other 1/8 cvd boot?
Back in the day running mbx-5 I used duratrax boots because they were a fraction of the price of Mugens and they both get ripped the same from pebbles. Didn't really matter who's boot it was, just needed to slip over the axle and hang out for a couple race days.
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Hello,
This car has only ONE weak part but it is so bad that it drives me crazy!
TKR5570 - Stub Axle. This part is a joke!
Here is a picture of some of mine...all broke around in one month.
How about other drivers -how many have the same issue still going on?
This car has only ONE weak part but it is so bad that it drives me crazy!
TKR5570 - Stub Axle. This part is a joke!
Here is a picture of some of mine...all broke around in one month.
How about other drivers -how many have the same issue still going on?
Last edited by mamyllyn; 06-22-2014 at 08:37 AM.
sounds like the motor is putting to big of a demand on the esc, also if it were a good match HW would have a combo with that esc, i did a little research before i bought my sct pro which i run with the pro4 4600kv because that esc caught my eye too but it seemed designed for 1/10 buggy?
I had this same problem, I went with a deeper nut and didnt tighten it down as much, when i feel the serrated nut start to click i only go two clicks instead of 3 or 4 i haven't broke one in a long time since
Tech Initiate
Sounds like user error.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
I must have been lucky. I've had the truck since it came out. Never broke a stub axle. I've seen a few break at the track though. I think it's a combo of overtightening and basher style track skills.
Tech Regular
the fan was hitting 165 and would stop. the esc case was 145ish. i had the lvc at 3.1 iirc. also i was struggling on finding a gearing that was good. our local track is 75 x 175 and going off the chart on page 1, i started at a 17 and wound up at a 13 feeling like i should drop even farther, i am boggled.
I probably did not read the instructions fully but I'm not aware of a fan thermal protection. That being said, I have my motor & esc thermal protection turned off on my trucks. Both run relatively cool. I'm running a 15t on the outdoor set up, and 16 on the indoor setup. 13t for the size track your running on seems under geared which will likely make your motor run hot since it will be running a lot of rpms all over the track.
Hope this helps.