17LikesTekno SCT410 Thread
03-31-2014, 10:42 AM
03-31-2014, 10:51 AM
03-31-2014, 10:52 AM
Ok guys, i got my tekno built and have ran a few races. Im fairly new to the rc world so please bare with me. First off, the truck is great. I just have a few minor issues. At first, the truck wanted to nosedive pretty bad but after a few minutes driving it i could fix it with a little throttle. (Im used to letting off mid-air). My truck came with pink fronts and looks like yellow rears (maybe green if the green is a yellowish green). The main issue ive had though is the rear end just doesnt seem planted in most situations. It even wants to walk out down the straight. Also, on certain jumps it is like the truck bounces back up on landing and loses traction. It could be my lack of driving ability but is there anything you guys suggest for my issues? I am running box setup so far.
Another thing and this just be my lack of knowledge, but the rear feels really soft, and just dropping it from a few inches onto the table it sits a good bit lower than the front. Suggestions?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks for your help
Another thing and this just be my lack of knowledge, but the rear feels really soft, and just dropping it from a few inches onto the table it sits a good bit lower than the front. Suggestions?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks for your help
If its not binding and it is sitting below arms level after a drop test... tighten up the shock preload adjusters to adjust ride height to where you want it.
The pink front and yellow rear are the springs that come with the most recent kits.
If you look at the chart below the yellow rear is a higher rate than the pink rear by a couple spring rates. I would pick up a yellow front or pink rear to get balance in your springs. Which one depends on if you think softer or stiffer would work better for you.
It makes sense that your rear end would feel loose, the spring rates are not matching front to rear IMO.
Many people like green front & rear but probably just as many use unlike spring colors so who knows if they're compensating with shock locations so the the leverage gets the rates closer or shock oils but that's a bandaid... again... IMO.
More rear toe in may help keep you in line on the straight also or more front toe out or a combo of both but both also affect turning so its a give & take.
03-31-2014, 10:59 AM
I too am new to racing. Here is how I helped my same problems.
My hinge pins were binding pretty bad. A fellow racer got me going the right direction. He told me to ream out the control arm hinge pin holes with a drill bit slightly larger than the pin itself. I think I used an 11/64" bit. Then, on reassembly of the pins and control arms, be sure to not over tighten the screws that hold your hinge pin bracket in place. I would lift the control arms and let them fall while putting the final turns on those screws and go till the arms didn't fall as free. Then back off an 1/8 turn (more or less) for free falling arms. Do this for all four hinge pins
The next thing I did was ream the rear hub holes (7/64" bit I think) so that the hub is free to move around the pin. When tightening the nuts on each end of that pin, be sure to not over tighten. Make sure you can spin the pin easily, but try to leave as little back and forth play as possible. The rear hubs should fall freely when you flick them up and down.
Next, on the front steering, do not over tighten the screws that hold the spindle carrier to the control arm, and same goes for the screws that hold the spindle to the spindle carrier.
Last thing I did recently, was pull my turnbuckles and pop the balls out. I used a Q-Tip to clean inside the turnbuckle holes and cleaned the balls. Reassembled and made sure the turnbuckles rotate freely on the balls. I don't recommend lubing the turnbuckles. Leave them dry, and clean them when they bind or squeak.
After these slight modifications my truck jumps, turns, and handles the bumps 100% better. The direct result was improved lap times.
BTW, I'm running the greens, front and back with 27.5 front and 25 rear.
03-31-2014, 11:13 AM
It is a pelican case, thats 100 bucks there
I have an LED strip light for night time use
that pic sucks, from my phone!
it has 2 fans ( on Left pulling air in) and PSupplies have same intake and exhaust
fans then case top deck on Right is 2 exhaust fans
pricey but worth every penny! Can even charge ipad or iphone or ?? with dual USB charger
Last edited by boudin4evr; 03-31-2014 at 11:30 AM.
03-31-2014, 11:15 AM
If I remember right
I cant take all the credit! PM me for more info
super compact dell power supply for amazing power! If you have the input power, i can run my DUO and 4 other chargers simultaneously!
but never do, just 1 or 2 others
03-31-2014, 11:19 AM
03-31-2014, 11:21 AM
03-31-2014, 11:25 AM
.
03-31-2014, 11:31 AM
nice case Razz,
For what progressiverc charges, anyone can do it themselves or have someone do it!
yeah I looked at pelicans site also. Very cheap made cases! Pelicans are awesome! I wanted or thought I wanted an orange or yellow case at first. BUT love my carbon fiber! so the all black stealth mode looks the best! Im not quite done with it! Ill try and post pics of it out of the case! Kinda like a turtle out of his shell! I just was really scared about cuting into a 100 dollar case!, so hince the intake and output cooling fans! And it is still waterproof! All I need now is a left angel power chord! Even on my Honda
generator inverter 2000, it just chugs along zero problems! Still cant believe that I never thought of parallel charging until this year!
For what progressiverc charges, anyone can do it themselves or have someone do it!
yeah I looked at pelicans site also. Very cheap made cases! Pelicans are awesome! I wanted or thought I wanted an orange or yellow case at first. BUT love my carbon fiber! so the all black stealth mode looks the best! Im not quite done with it! Ill try and post pics of it out of the case! Kinda like a turtle out of his shell! I just was really scared about cuting into a 100 dollar case!, so hince the intake and output cooling fans! And it is still waterproof! All I need now is a left angel power chord! Even on my Honda
generator inverter 2000, it just chugs along zero problems! Still cant believe that I never thought of parallel charging until this year!
03-31-2014, 12:48 PM
03-31-2014, 12:55 PM
+1 ^^
I too am new to racing. Here is how I helped my same problems.
My hinge pins were binding pretty bad. A fellow racer got me going the right direction. He told me to ream out the control arm hinge pin holes with a drill bit slightly larger than the pin itself. I think I used an 11/64" bit. Then, on reassembly of the pins and control arms, be sure to not over tighten the screws that hold your hinge pin bracket in place. I would lift the control arms and let them fall while putting the final turns on those screws and go till the arms didn't fall as free. Then back off an 1/8 turn (more or less) for free falling arms. Do this for all four hinge pins
The next thing I did was ream the rear hub holes (7/64" bit I think) so that the hub is free to move around the pin. When tightening the nuts on each end of that pin, be sure to not over tighten. Make sure you can spin the pin easily, but try to leave as little back and forth play as possible. The rear hubs should fall freely when you flick them up and down.
Next, on the front steering, do not over tighten the screws that hold the spindle carrier to the control arm, and same goes for the screws that hold the spindle to the spindle carrier.
Last thing I did recently, was pull my turnbuckles and pop the balls out. I used a Q-Tip to clean inside the turnbuckle holes and cleaned the balls. Reassembled and made sure the turnbuckles rotate freely on the balls. I don't recommend lubing the turnbuckles. Leave them dry, and clean them when they bind or squeak.
After these slight modifications my truck jumps, turns, and handles the bumps 100% better. The direct result was improved lap times.
BTW, I'm running the greens, front and back with 27.5 front and 25 rear.
I too am new to racing. Here is how I helped my same problems.
My hinge pins were binding pretty bad. A fellow racer got me going the right direction. He told me to ream out the control arm hinge pin holes with a drill bit slightly larger than the pin itself. I think I used an 11/64" bit. Then, on reassembly of the pins and control arms, be sure to not over tighten the screws that hold your hinge pin bracket in place. I would lift the control arms and let them fall while putting the final turns on those screws and go till the arms didn't fall as free. Then back off an 1/8 turn (more or less) for free falling arms. Do this for all four hinge pins
The next thing I did was ream the rear hub holes (7/64" bit I think) so that the hub is free to move around the pin. When tightening the nuts on each end of that pin, be sure to not over tighten. Make sure you can spin the pin easily, but try to leave as little back and forth play as possible. The rear hubs should fall freely when you flick them up and down.
Next, on the front steering, do not over tighten the screws that hold the spindle carrier to the control arm, and same goes for the screws that hold the spindle to the spindle carrier.
Last thing I did recently, was pull my turnbuckles and pop the balls out. I used a Q-Tip to clean inside the turnbuckle holes and cleaned the balls. Reassembled and made sure the turnbuckles rotate freely on the balls. I don't recommend lubing the turnbuckles. Leave them dry, and clean them when they bind or squeak.
After these slight modifications my truck jumps, turns, and handles the bumps 100% better. The direct result was improved lap times.
BTW, I'm running the greens, front and back with 27.5 front and 25 rear.
I used the green springs front and rear 32w/1.2 pistons F , 30w/1.3 pistons R . It was better than the rear pink rear springs I was using the black front springs were not to bad .
But looking at that spring chart for the tekno springs it would seem better to use the black front spring 3.5 rate and the green rear. The front green spring is much stiffer than the rear green spring . I could be wrong maybe on the spring setup ?
Last edited by tc5 man; 03-31-2014 at 01:05 PM.
03-31-2014, 12:57 PM
03-31-2014, 01:04 PM
has anyone experimented with using front shocks in the rear to save weight? i noticed that at the sc showdown at rce. if so any recomendations on springs oils and pistons for this combo?
03-31-2014, 01:09 PM
nice case Razz,
For what progressiverc charges, anyone can do it themselves or have someone do it!
yeah I looked at pelicans site also. Very cheap made cases! Pelicans are awesome! I wanted or thought I wanted an orange or yellow case at first. BUT love my carbon fiber! so the all black stealth mode looks the best! Im not quite done with it! Ill try and post pics of it out of the case! Kinda like a turtle out of his shell! I just was really scared about cuting into a 100 dollar case!, so hince the intake and output cooling fans! And it is still waterproof! All I need now is a left angel power chord! Even on my Honda
generator inverter 2000, it just chugs along zero problems! Still cant believe that I never thought of parallel charging until this year!
For what progressiverc charges, anyone can do it themselves or have someone do it!
yeah I looked at pelicans site also. Very cheap made cases! Pelicans are awesome! I wanted or thought I wanted an orange or yellow case at first. BUT love my carbon fiber! so the all black stealth mode looks the best! Im not quite done with it! Ill try and post pics of it out of the case! Kinda like a turtle out of his shell! I just was really scared about cuting into a 100 dollar case!, so hince the intake and output cooling fans! And it is still waterproof! All I need now is a left angel power chord! Even on my Honda
generator inverter 2000, it just chugs along zero problems! Still cant believe that I never thought of parallel charging until this year!
It was important for me to keep the case intact, without cutting any holes in it. I wanted to be able to fly with it and I wanted to keep the watertight feature of the Pelican case.
I was prepared to add cooling fans to the faceplate if needed, but after monitoring temperatures under use (discharge or storage mode generates the most heat for my setup) I found that temperatures stay very reasonable. I rarely see over 95 degrees. Maybe that's because of the Meanwell power supplies? I don't know. They are a higher-end PS and have a reputation for running cool.
I have bought a dual USB port to charge my phone or anything else that is USB chargeable. That will be installed soon. I also plan to install a 12V banana plug output port and a 24V banana plug output port.
Constantly tinkering.
