What if you were to do an Emulsion build on the shocks with the hole on top & the sides would that be okay? Or just the bleeder holes on the sides instead of the one on top?

You have to use the top hole for emulsion build.
You will fill the body and put a little oil into the cap and thread the cap on (don't worry about the top hole being open oil won't come out). Push the shaft up and that pushes the excess out of the top hole.
While holding the shaft in, screw the cap all the way down and then run the screw with oring into the top hole. Done.

Sides are for bladder build but I think won't interfere with emulsion build. I will try it with the side holes open on my next oil weight change this week and report back. Would be nice to have all holes drilled so you can make whatever changes you want at the track :tire:

If you can build emulsion with both holes drilled you can build emulsion, bladder and vented bladder with one cap.

Question fellas. Anyone who's gotten rid of the dreaded nose diving issue, are you still running the 4 front/4 rear uptravel limiters on the shock shafts? Running the RC God setup from a while ago with 2 differences: 1, using 8x1.3 pistons in the front also (simply cuz that's what I had), and 2, emulsion shocks all around.
Absolutely LOVE how the truck corners, accelerates, and brakes. Jumps very well on the smaller jumps, but seems to jump very inconsistent on a couple of the larger jumps. These 2 jumps do have a sweet spot and it jumps great if I hit it. However, if I hit it even the slightest off of this mark, the truck often nosedives so violently that it's as if I ran over a land mine :eek:. Try keeping throttle steady or squeezing it as hard as I can, but once her ass decides that it's going over, that's all she wrote. Read a few pages back someone runs Tekno black fronts and Tekno green rears with 8x1.3 pistons and helped their nosediving. Sound like a good direction to go, or should I try something else.
Thanks gents.

I run all 4 of the oring limiters. 3.9lb springs up front, 2.7 lb rears.

Since I am running lighter rear diff fluid than others (2K), I am leaving the limiters in as I think that helps with avoiding diff whip.

I'll probalby go down in oil though for my summer settings, at least in the rear.

I'm planning on getting one of these in a few months. I'm thinking my setup will be a tekin rx8 and pro 4hd 4300 Kv motor. For bashing I will use a 11t pinion. For racing I will use a 16t pinion. I will get the aluminum servo horn and wheel hexes when I get the truck. Then ill have to wait until I run it before I change the shocks or springs. I might eventually get the traktion drive. Will this be a good starting setup?

11t is very small for that motor, you could easily be over-revving it.

Hey fq06, you know there is a third hole in the top of the cap? I wasn't sure cuz you say top hole for emulsion style but then say to put the bleeder screws in the top hole. Just clarifying for those who are trying for the first time. If you drill out the "top hole" then you would not be able to run emulsion without sealing those up or leaky leaky. You want to drill bleeder screw holes for that setup right?

That's odd, maybe there is an updated shock cap that came with my newer kit??? :confused:

Absolutely right, you drill out the bleeder hole that the 4x6 screw runs into on page 18 (shock building page) of the manual. The manual also does not reference the 3rd hole at all, just the large emulsion bleeder and small bladder pee hole.

Mine has the large hole at the top that the emulsion build screw runs into and there is a bladder build pee hole that you can drill out on the front and/or back of the cap (don't know why you'd want more than one oozing fluid).
Other than the large emulsion build hole, there is nothing else on the top of the cap.
Sorry to confuse people that have a second hole on the top and maybe I'm blind and can't see it. :lol:
Edit: I'm curious, where is the other hole on top? Other than the emulsion hole, I can't see what you would use a hole on top for?? Maybe that's just where the mold injected and wasn't meant to be drilled??

http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/...191704_015.jpg
http://i1144.photobucket.com/albums/...194049_968.jpg

You have to take the cap off and look inside, it opens up to where the insert for the cap is that the screw holds the shock to the tower, if that makes since, it is on page 18 very top under vented build, drill 1 - 2 mm hole through "top" of cap

Oh, got it... dead center in the cap.
Not sure that makes sense to me, but I'm not an engineer either.
Wouldn't that vent up into the spacer for the shock stand off and get barely any air flow? Maybe that's what was intended?

When I built my kit and I built the shocks bladder vented with the emulsion hole. Can't remember if I noticed that part of page 18 and used the emulsion hole for my vent or if my mind unconsciously looked at that and skipped right past it :lol:

Thanx for pointing that out Mike :tire:

Ya no engineer here either but it didn't make since to me either, not much air flow at all, that's how I built mine cuz like you said it must be in the design? But at least the holes don't fill with dirt, how about the bleeder holes, do they get much dirt or dust in them? I'm thinkin about trying emulsion style next since I pretty much only run on the local indoor clay tracks, I want to see if its any more smooth, gonna get some 8x1.3 to play with as well

What sway bars are you guys running?

Only place I've run the Tekno is indoor so there's not a ton of dust kicked up. But I saw a spec or two of dust on one or two of the bladders when swapping fluids multiple times (rare though), but barely anything. That's with the emulsion hole used to vent. It was the same with my old SC10 4x when built with bladder you used the emulation screw hole to vent and I drove that in really dusty dirt Palm Desert Raceway and it did not really attract much if any dirt on top of the bladder. That's separated from the oil anyway.

My first 4x4 and loving it.
 

I decided to jump into this class and with all the help from this great thread I have had a great time assembling this car! I went with the tekno servo horn, aluminum hexes, and the 8x1.3 shock pistons. I've been to the track once so far and am very impressed with it. I've posted a few pics of my build.:nod:

1 more pic.