Yes, only Front Chassis Brace and Rear Hubs are spaced forward.

I'm going to trying spacing rear hubs in middle or back and see how that reacts, since I dont have any smaller/lighter swaybars at current moment.

Guys i tried all the setups on the tekno site but I am struggling to get my truck to be planted on an indoor medium size track with medium grip and small-medium jumps, there is a little bit of sand on top coat so it can be loose sometimes, guys run handlebars but i had better traction with gridirons. I am referring to SJRC, alot of Tekno guys there, maybe one of them can share their set up.

what is the last setup you ended up with exactly?

in your opinion, can you be specific as to what you are wanting to fix? (loose coming out of turns, down the straight, in general more traction, etc)

Great thing about this thread, guys really help each other out!

If you want more rear traction either move the rear hubs back, or thicken up the rear different fluid.

Which brand of wheels do you guys recommend for easy gluing and fitment of JC tires? I'm thinking of trying some Bar Codes. I like the Suburbs, hate the handlebars but some of the local guys vouch for Bar Codes so I gotta give 'em a try.

I was having issues with it being loose in turns and I found that adding the rear brace added a lot of traction. Give it a shot

I like Barcodes and Handlebars but only the ltd's. The std's are more for a loose dirt track. I am actually running a set of Panther Rattlers right now and I really like them as well, they are Panthers version of that style of tire.

Need more traction, if I gun it out of the turn, the rear will break loose. I dont have my set up sheet with me but the diffs are at 7-7-5, stock sway bars. -2 camber F and R. 1 toe F and 4 or 4.5 rear.

Front shock mount #3 on tower and second from center diff on arm. camber link A at hub and #2 on tower.

Sorry also running the rx8 gen2 with the 4300HD 17t pinion. I think I need to change the settings on my esc, I might just have too much timing and wheels are spinning. Do you guys think bumping up from the spektrum dx3c to the dx3r pro would make a huge difference on trigger feel and response?

Rear shock mount #2 on tower and the higher 3rd from center. camber link #2 on tower cant remember hub.

26mm ride height F and R.

center ackherman. did the bumpsteer mod suggested by tekno.

droop is like 102 F and 119 R

8X1.3 F with 35w and 8x1.3 R with 30w.

I think Pink front and Red rear but not positive.

and all light weight shafts and outdrives and new straight cut gears. just rebuilt her this past week, was in aweseome condition after 6 months, replaced bearings and one axle stub because it had a crack.

I have been running the avid saber tooth wheels whith good results.

+1 ran em' all season and really like them.

thanks I'll give them a try, looks like they're cheaper than the competition too. There's no rubbing issues or mods need to be done for fitment on this truck?

Try stock rear spring or one to two colors stiffer. Especially when using stock battery location. Set punch or current limiter lower. Don't punch it out of a corner unless it's super high bite.

No, great rims.

I am using red rears, any stiffer is blue or purple. Pink in front

I honestly think I am just over powered with the rx8 gen 2 and 4300hd with 17t pinion. I installed the HD for a big outdoor race where I needed some more "ummpphh" but this indoor track doesn't really need that so I will either have to lower timing or gear down the HD or go back to my pro4 4600.

I am really bad at the Tekin programming system, I have viper and orion down but they are more intuitive, I wish there was a Tekin for Dummies manual

Any value in upgrading from the spektrum dx3c to the dx3r pro or dx4r pro(dont need 4 channels)

One or two stiffer than "stock" not red. Red is to stiff for smooth indoor IMO especially if you are looking for rear traction. If anything, go stiffer in the front than your pinks. If you want traction in the rear, the soft pink will not help. Start with green rear and go from there with oils and suspension changes.

Not go go the full distance with the battery tray mod, try stick a strip of lead tape double high under the rear drive axle (about six 7g pieces total) If it helps you out, think about the tray mod... and leave the lead. To the side of the rear braces if you want to run it.

Shouldnt be any big difference in spectrum radios, if you want to upgrade. Go to the MT-4

Bunch of info on RX8 with the 4300 in this thread... zero timing and current limited at 50 or less. The rest won't make a ton of difference. Push is a favorite of mine and may help you flow through the turn better not needing to punch it as much at the exit... try 10.