Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard (Post 12590888)

**Missed all the other right answers for some reason, but here is another one**

There are 3 holes on the cap.

1) The small hole at the very top where the standoff passes through.
2) The emulsion hole that takes a screw and a o-ring after drilling
3) The bleeder hole on the side of the cap.

To build a non vented shock you need to drill #3 only and user a bladder.

To build a vented shock you need to drill #1 & #3 and use a bladder.

To build an emulsion shock you need to drill #2 no bladder required.

You can drill all three and still build vented. You can drill 2 and 3 and still build non vented and emulsion. Once you drill #1 you've got a vented only shock cap.

Originally Posted by lala4fire (Post 12593028)

1 more.

Originally Posted by King DORK (Post 12592297)

Question fellas. Anyone who's gotten rid of the dreaded nose diving issue, are you still running the 4 front/4 rear uptravel limiters on the shock shafts? Running the RC God setup from a while ago with 2 differences: 1, using 8x1.3 pistons in the front also (simply cuz that's what I had), and 2, emulsion shocks all around.
Absolutely LOVE how the truck corners, accelerates, and brakes. Jumps very well on the smaller jumps, but seems to jump very inconsistent on a couple of the larger jumps. These 2 jumps do have a sweet spot and it jumps great if I hit it. However, if I hit it even the slightest off of this mark, the truck often nosedives so violently that it's as if I ran over a land mine :eek:. Try keeping throttle steady or squeezing it as hard as I can, but once her ass decides that it's going over, that's all she wrote. Read a few pages back someone runs Tekno black fronts and Tekno green rears with 8x1.3 pistons and helped their nosediving. Sound like a good direction to go, or should I try something else.
Thanks gents.

Originally Posted by Hoese37 (Post 12592409)

11t is very small for that motor, you could easily be over-revving it.

Originally Posted by Jimdog (Post 12593394)

Would a 12t be better? Considering my personal track and bashing spots are grass I need extra torque. I ran too high pinion on my old motor and over heated it. Id rather gear too low than to ruin my motor.

Originally Posted by snwchris (Post 12593298)

Wierd with the nose dive issue, cause I'm running the RCgod setup as well, and still to this day (since back in May) and never had nose dive issues. I'm also running just standard shock build with 0 rebound. I'm running the 8x1.3 pistons all around as well and the battery still in stock position.

Originally Posted by rjohn929 (Post 12593477)

Gearing to low will ruin a motor just the same. The 4300 has tons of torque and the 16 might be right for bashing and tall grass. I run a 17 or 18 for racing depending on track layout. Just remeber that any big motor on 2s is going to have a hard time in grass. Your batteries are going to take a beating.

Originally Posted by lala4fire (Post 12593028)

1 more.

Originally Posted by colormegone (Post 12593517)

Are you using 45wt front and 35wt rear with bladers and stock springs? Do you vent the caps or are they sealed? I just made up some pistons which are same pack as the 8x1.3 pistons and will try stock springs with 40 F and 30 R, bladers and no vent in caps. 20% rebound

Originally Posted by gawith0413 (Post 12593660)

Where do you get those braided lines for the wire?

Originally Posted by gawith0413 (Post 12593660)

Where do you get those braided lines for the wire?