R/C Tech Forums - Tekno SCT410 Thread

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyMcG (Post 12595873)

Question.... Trying to get my 410 set to my local track. What diff oils would best suit a medium bite loose with hard pack surface? This thing has so much power it slide coming out of the corner on power. And slide also on the straight under power.

please post your full setup.

Personally, I think 7-7-3 may be a good starting point especially if the rear feels a bit loose.

For the conditions I run on outdoors, I loved how 7-7-2 felt. Rear stayed planted but I could still quick rotate as needed, and this was on dust bowl loose black dirt. If they wet it at all prior as traction came up, I would switch to m3 compound from M4's or, change rear toe insert from 4.5 total to 3.5 for more rotation.

Quote:

Originally Posted by King DORK (Post 12592297)

Question fellas. Anyone who's gotten rid of the dreaded nose diving issue, are you still running the 4 front/4 rear uptravel limiters on the shock shafts? Running the RC God setup from a while ago with 2 differences: 1, using 8x1.3 pistons in the front also (simply cuz that's what I had), and 2, emulsion shocks all around.
Absolutely LOVE how the truck corners, accelerates, and brakes. Jumps very well on the smaller jumps, but seems to jump very inconsistent on a couple of the larger jumps. These 2 jumps do have a sweet spot and it jumps great if I hit it. However, if I hit it even the slightest off of this mark, the truck often nosedives so violently that it's as if I ran over a land mine :eek:. Try keeping throttle steady or squeezing it as hard as I can, but once her ass decides that it's going over, that's all she wrote. Read a few pages back someone runs Tekno black fronts and Tekno green rears with 8x1.3 pistons and helped their nosediving. Sound like a good direction to go, or should I try something else.
Thanks gents.

Green fronts and yellow to red rear springs. 8x1.3 is working good for alot of people. I run vented bladder but a fast guy I trust runs emulsion and has no nosedive. I believe the nose diving is from bottoming out but no one really knows for sure. I went through all this when the truck was fairly new. Make sure you set your ride hieght with body on and fully loaded. Driveshafts level in rear, then use ride hieght gauge to level the chassis front to rear. The problem with following setup sheet ride hieghts is that different tires give different ride hieghts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 12596933)

I believe the scte's spur is smaller than the Tekno's so going up a few teeth on the pinion probably gets you to the same gear ratio.

Im pretty sure the scte 2.0 was 40t spur, I was running 13 pinion with the pro4 4600, now run 15t with HD 4300, little more torque and around same straight away speed maybe a little faster

Quote:

Originally Posted by egobrkr (Post 12596846)

When you went up 2teeth did you loose a lot of low and mid range power?

Coming from a scte I had the same issue I was in the 14t area with mine and when I switched to my sct410 it took me a while cause I was afraid of over gearing and burning up my ESC or motor but now I'm running at the 17-18t so go ahead and do it and don't be worried. I run a sc411 4600 and a rx8 g2.

any word on a sct410.2 in the works?

Well it looks like losi is a 35t ring and 9t pinion with 40t spur for a 3.888:1 ratio. The tekno is a 40t ring 10t pinion and 44t spur with a 4:1 ratio.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 981PCAR (Post 12596929)

That is a really clean setup, great job!

Thanks man, I saw the same set up on the EB48 thread and had to have the same look. Gotta say I've built quit a few kits in my time and this is the nicest fitting so far

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...ddendum_01.pdf

Does this pertain to the new kits out today also?

Quote:

Originally Posted by gawith0413 (Post 12597746)

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...ddendum_01.pdf

Does this pertain to the new kits out today also?

what do you mean by "out"? depends when yours was made but if it does pertain to you the addendum will be in the box unless you have a first run in which case you would need to dremel or shim but i doubt u have a first run if u bought recently. most likely u can ignore that addendum completely

I was just meaning the kits on shelves now. I just got mine from Tower last week and put it together this weekend. There was no addendum in it. So I guess I'm good to go.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gawith0413 (Post 12597820)

I was just meaning the kits on shelves now. I just got mine from Tower last week and put it together this weekend. There was no addendum in it. So I guess I'm good to go.

The kit I bought a month or so ago did not have that addendum and the diff pinion assembly was just what's in the manual.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gawith0413 (Post 12597820)

I was just meaning the kits on shelves now. I just got mine from Tower last week and put it together this weekend. There was no addendum in it. So I guess I'm good to go.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fq06 (Post 12598475)

The kit I bought a month or so ago did not have that addendum and the diff pinion assembly was just what's in the manual.

Yea your fine, you may even have gotten the angled rear housing and larger bearings, idk if that's a running change or not, get confused sometimes cus I have the sct and EB.1 and EB.2

Nope, standard rear diff housing in my kit... but the angled housing and revolution bearings just showed up in the mail today. Along with a couple other goodies :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckTee (Post 12596193)

If I don't have the right tires I'm sliding all over the place, what are you running for rubber? What are you running set up wise right now? Diff fluids, shock oils, shock springs and such?

I run aka cityblocks, enduros, or gridirons all in soft compound. Diffs are front to rear 5/7/3 and 40ft and 32.5 rear with stock springs and internals.

I have a question regarding my front and rear diffs. Now that I'm about half way into the build, I'm second guessing the shim placement on my front and rear diffs. Both diffs turn smoothly if I turn either side of the outdrive, on both front and rear. There's no binding or spots that it's not smooth. They both turn easily.
What I'm second guessing is how noisy both the front and rear diffs are. There is a little "growl" to them as I spin the diffs.

Is this normal since they are new?
Will they become less noisy as they are getting broken in?
Should I disassemble the diffs and try re-shimming them?

Like I said, they both spin smoothly and easily with no binding! Just a little worried about how noisy they are. I don't recall if my diffs were that noisy on other kits I've assembled.

Thanks in advance for your input and help!