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Originally Posted by Lazi
(Post 12612751)
I`m new on this tread so i don`t want to be harsh on any body but this whole battery tray mod is just for who too lazy to work a little bit on the suspension setups! i got the sct410 last week and the first run YES my car was nose diving bad! but after a few small change voila the car jumping great and even parachuting but easier to bring the noise down with brake, than bringing up with throttle punch!
i will post my setup sheet if u like. the track was 140x70 perfect for both sct or ebuggy! oh i forget to tell! i was tq and winning both sct410 and eb48 last weekend. btw: i`m pretty sure before tekno release the sct410, teat it for a few months, and if they have the nose dive issue they will fix that before putting on the market! its a well made car for sure! |
Originally Posted by mikeinsocal
(Post 12612903)
@ redbeard, so what's that chassis supposed to improve on? If its lighter does that mean that the drive train should be lightened to try to bring cog back down?
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I'm curious also, in theory it sounds like a winner. I just don't like the look of the battery tray moved back with the chassis sticking out. I think they should have just trimmed off that part.
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Originally Posted by mikeinsocal
(Post 12612903)
@ redbeard, so what's that chassis supposed to improve on? If its lighter does that mean that the drive train should be lightened to try to bring cog back down?
@lazi id like to see your setup, post it up @anyone, I'm looking for a good shock setup to have a good initial pack but soft and plush, through the rough stuff, I run on indoor med to large size tracks with med to somewhat large jumps. Med bite clay, I'm running box stock now with vented bladder. I picked up some green and Orange tekno springs, also some 8x1.3 kyosho pistons to try out. Thinking about trying emulsion but need new shock caps that havnt been drilled yet, I don't really trust plugging them. As far as pistons go, is the final # the only thing that matters or would different hole # and sizes have different effects even if they were very close in final open space? Like if a 12x1.0 and a 6x2.0 would pretty much be the same or have very different effects? Thanks all, oh and I love my truck! Thanx Tekno! You should be able to build emulsion with the small side holes drilled. Try it. If not, with the caps on, drop one drop of CA in the side holes to seal them. Let the CA dry for a while and unscrew. That's how I am running emulsion right now. But I'm sure you don't need to seal them to build emulsion style. The side holes are into the threads after a couple turns and there isn't any pressure until the cap is all the way down and you are pushing the shaft in and running the screw in. |
I run mostly at ierc and coyote hobbies. The hole is the one we talked about that is in the "top" top of the caps. Probably can seal with ca though. Some of the guys at ierc are running the 8x1.4 which in # should have less pack than stock which I find odd to go to less pack, anyone running those been able to compare to 8x1.3? I want somewhat soft without bottoming out on the bigger stuff. That's why I'm going to try the 8x1.3 so I can use a bit lighter oil. This is all in theory so far because I haven't had much time for trial and error but looks like what some others have been trying with good success.
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Oh, yeah... new caps :(
Haven't run those tracks yet. Ran SCVRC Saturday and they have crazy sticky dirt. IERC sounds like the dirt is similar to OCRC I'll send the setup I have so far. That's with the 8x1.3 and close to the same springs. |
Kool I'd appreciate it. Come on out sometime. I've been wanting to hit sdrc, top notch will be there again so hopefully I can follow them down there this time. Scvrc too I believe.
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Originally Posted by mikeinsocal
(Post 12613116)
Kool I'd appreciate it. Come on out sometime. I've been wanting to hit sdrc, top notch will be there again so hopefully I can follow them down there this time. Scvrc too I believe.
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Originally Posted by fq06
(Post 12611823)
Also add in the new angled rear diff case and the 2 larger 5x13x4mm bearings for it.
Its not necessary, but a nice upgrade that you won't have to do later since your building it, might as well. Check gear mesh but you probably won't need washers next to the bearings with the angled rear diff like you do with the standard front diff. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Angled-Gearbox The build is very straight forward, nothing needed other than what's in the manual and like xrated mentioned check the 1st page of this thread for the rear camber screw mod and also which side guards go where. doesnt the angled rear diff case now come with all new sct410s? |
Originally Posted by XRated SCT
(Post 12613126)
SDRC is my local track and only track I've been to, couldn't ask for a better track as my first definitely brought my experience in the hobby up, one day I gotta head up north to try out some other tracks
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Originally Posted by mikeinsocal
(Post 12613131)
Everyone we've met from sdrc have been pretty nice. Seems like a good group to hang with, not to mention so many tekno guys, which equals fast :sneaky:
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That's me too! I race with Ronda Drake among others! My truck is able to go way faster than I can drive it but chasing them around is good practice.
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Originally Posted by Jeremy0203
(Post 12613129)
doesnt the angled rear diff case now come with all new sct410s?
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Originally Posted by mikeinsocal
(Post 12613092)
I run mostly at ierc and coyote hobbies. The hole is the one we talked about that is in the "top" top of the caps. Probably can seal with ca though. Some of the guys at ierc are running the 8x1.4 which in # should have less pack than stock which I find odd to go to less pack, anyone running those been able to compare to 8x1.3? I want somewhat soft without bottoming out on the bigger stuff. That's why I'm going to try the 8x1.3 so I can use a bit lighter oil. This is all in theory so far because I haven't had much time for trial and error but looks like what some others have been trying with good success.
Originally Posted by Jeremy0203
(Post 12613129)
doesnt the angled rear diff case now come with all new sct410s?
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Originally Posted by cpt_RedBeard
(Post 12612611)
I got my BCE Tekno T1 Pro Chassis in the mail today.
First impression was wow.. Beautiful finish and milling. The chassis feels lighter (no scale sorry) and is defiantly different. The battery back is slid back in the chassis thus requiring the battery tray to be modified. Also a good note is that you must start with a standard battery tray and cut it. I'm going to try to get some testing in wednesday night, but if not I will be running the chassis this weekend for sure. I'll report back on my impressions.
Originally Posted by mikeinsocal
(Post 12612903)
@ redbeard, so what's that chassis supposed to improve on? If its lighter does that mean that the drive train should be lightened to try to bring cog back down?
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