Hi all,

I asked an option maker about custom hubs for TKR5570-17.

Its possible to make sct width hubs but he needs to do about 25 sets.

Any takers?

What did you do to fix the nose dive issue? Did you actually see a nose dive issue? I just built mine and want to have it good to go before I race it..

Thanks

Anthony

I dont get what it is your wanting to get made? These are to make the truck the buggy width and make it accept 1/8th wheels. The Tekno ones are awesome, how could you get any more custom?

Just make sure you have no drag brake on and use some throttle control. I had mine dive once or twice before I got the feel for it. You can try the Baker setup off the Teknorc.com site as well.

When the heck are the TKR1654X aluminum hexes going to be in stock again? I have been looking all over for them. My plastic ones are done and I have a set of the plastic SC10 4x4 ones on right now I had to mod.

Edit:

I just found some at Active Power Sports, but they cost me $10 to ship UPS ground. Not to bad since they charge $13.77 for the set. They show more in stock if anyone else is looking. http://www.activepowersports.com/tek...ts-4-tkr1654x/

I think it depends on the track as well. The first track I drove on the truck was great, speed was good, jumping was good. Went to my regular track (with no set up changes) and the truck was nose diving really badly. I tried everything I could in terms of driving style (I didn't have any parts like springs at the time) and ended up just rolling over most of the jumps. I changed to green springs in the rear, one step stiffer than stock, and 30wt AE oil and the truck jumps very well now on the same track.

Thanks. I got some other advice...I got the losi green 3.1" 3.1 rate rear spring and heard that's good...if you go a touch softer in the front than normal will that make the front spring up a little and dive less? Is that how springs work? Obviously newer to racing...but it seems if the front bounces off the jump a little the back end shouldn't bounce off the jump if you stiffened the back up a little...

Anthony

For me, I think what was happening was that the rear was a touch too soft. As the truck approached the face of the jump the rear was bottoming out and slapping the the jump face. This kicked up the rear and made it nose over in the air. I did not change the front set up at all.

Generally stiffer springs jump better.

I change pistons to a piston with a little more progressive dampening to stop the truck from g-ing out on the face of the jump and it helped a lot.

The are two problems locals in my area are experiencing:

1) The tail of the truck is bottoming out on the face of the jump and causing the rear to pre maturely rebound throwing the truck nose down. Sometimes a stiffer spring can make this better, or ever worse. I tried a piston with more pack or stiffer oil before changing the springs up. When setup searching I made my truck jump well with piston and fluid changes first, then addressed cornering with spring, small fluid, and swaybar changes.

2) The biggest problem is the general nature of newer to the class drivers is "Its a 4x4, lets grab a handful of throttle and launch this sucker." This causes 3 problems. One, you just preloaded the snot out of the suspension and more than likely the truck is going to spring off the face. Two, you just made the G-out issue as bad as possible. And three, more than likely your motor/wheel speed is maxed from speed or wheel spin. When this happens you don't have any wheel speed left to make corrections in the air.

A few had PM'd me about a setup so I'll just post it here. It's not perfect, it's still a work in progress. This setup is a very stable setup, very tight and not enough steering for me personally, but it gets the job done. I'm still working on getting the steering back into the setup with out making it feel loose.

http://i.imgur.com/qS6HJYv.png

I would put 2k in rear diff and move front shock location to outside on arm or move camber link down on front tower. That should get u what u need

Is it the competition suspension CNC 8 port optimum flow pistons?

Anxious to get my truck built and if I remember right the scte had the same "nose dive" issue. If I remember right RX8 users often added a little higher setting to their "push" control with their hot wire. I believe it holds a slightly elevated throttle when you release your throttle finger. I tried it on the scte and it helped alot.

For me at least, a lot of it was how much run up a jump had. indoors carpet pretty much no smooth ramp up on the jump, very abrupt so the rear was most likely smacking the face of the jump and up and over you go.

Me personally, went with the same pistons in my EB48, Kyosho 1.3mm x 8 holes (Tekno has there version too) and hope that will give better pack. I plan to at least try it on some homemade jumps this weekend since the weather has improved a lot and will report back.

Springs
 

I orderd some stiffer springs the hot bodies grey for the back and Durango fronts as Someone said in here other than that I will leave the truck box stock and do a test soon as I get them to see if that fixes the nose dive for me and I'll post my results.