+1--would love to see this too!!!!

I have mine mounted just like Fq06, on the side of the esc except I used a dab of ca glue

Over the weekend I finished up the points series at my local track. I finished in first place for the season with my sct410. I really love this truck, I didn't break a single part the entire season, just run, clean, charge.

Congrats bro.

Now that I'm a winner, bring on the sponsorships

[U[/U]Unfortunately you will more than likely need a lot more than a club point series victory to get any sponsors especially if only 4-5 people are even in the running in the point series at your local track. You will need to travel to major events and series and also win those and win often against much stiffer competition than you will see at any local track. I know someone that has even won the roar 1/8 buggy/truggy and Sc series and state races in our area and He is lucky to get 50-75%. OS won't sponsor him. Plus if your old like me then they aren't really interested:rolleyes:

Yeah, I know it takes a lot more than one club series, just having some fun.

I'm going to be racing my truck for the first time in a couple weeks. I just set it up like the manual says and that's what I'm going to run first. But whats some stuff I should have to make some changes like pistons, springs, sway bars, etc...The two tracks I will run at most of the time are hard packed, high bite, smooth indoor tracks. One is large and one is medium to small, but they are similar in dirt and build. Any help would be appreciative.

Oh haha duh...yea no way it's going to fit with a 550, anyways looks nice

I would have the 1.3mm x 8 hole pistons on hand, either the Tekno ones or the Kyosho ones.

Probably some stiffer springs too, I like 3.8lb front and 2.7lb rear types of springs as a good starting point.

I do think though I am going to go emulsion all around on my vehicles.

Hey fellas. I'm seriously considering getting my first SCT410 to get back in to RC again(prior to my hiatus I was driving a V1 Durango) and would like to get some setup and build tips.

Anyone have a great indoor clay(med-high grip) setup for tracks in SoCal?


Other than the stock kit, aluminum hexes, and aluminum servo horn are there any parts that I should get:
Springs for indoor clay?
CF shock tower?
Lighter chassis and/or drivetrain?


Any build tips that maybe the instruction manual left out?


Thanks in advance.:nod::)

If you keep on winning keep records of the finishes though and at least put a small resume together and send out to companies you like to use. Batteries, electronics etc, you could end up with some 50% sponsorships pretty quick, although that's usually off there suggested retail prices (usually much higher than what actually sells for in store) you can still save a lot.
Congrats and keep it up

I'm a little weary of the 50% off type deals based on my experience with some paintball sponsorship. In our case it was for a local team, and when you broke it all down we were basically slaves to the brand for about a 5% discount over what we were getting from a wholesaler via group buying. Had to win so many events a year, couldn't use any other brand's products, etc.

I'm not sure if R/C is the same way, but it felt more like being in an horizontal marketing scheme vs. a sponsorship. Just read the fine print and really think though what your obligations are.

Like Cain mentioned with springs and pistons to have on hand. I would also look at having 2.3 and 2.4 rear swaybars on hand. I changed mine out after a couple practice laps and could almost tell right away. I run on high bite clay and like 7-7-3 for diff oils.

The other thing would be an array of shock oils. I like the Losi oils myself and alot of others do as well. I would recommend having 37.5, 35, 32.5, 30 and 27.5 on hand.

The one nice thing with the Tekno is that it responds so well to small changes, so you know if it worked or not.

If your looking for a couple setup starting points also to help out, check out the Ramos setup on Teknos site and the "rcgod" setup which I think a few people here have and can post up or email if needed.

As others have mentioned, having stiffer springs on hand is a really good idea. As for how much stiffer and how much thicker on oil or smaller/fewer holes on pistons, that will depend largely on how smooth and high bite the indoor clay is.

Having 8x1.3 pistons to try is good and you can make 8x1.2's to test with by gluing 2 holes on the stock 10x1.2 together if you think you need even more pack than the 8x1.3.

I personally like the CF shock towers a lot, as they help to lower the CG a bit and make traction rolling less likely. If I were on super loose conditions though, I'd keep the stockers (or more likely get the EB48 thicker ones) so I had the roll to put more weight on the outside and get some grip.

I really like the extra oomph I got from switching to the al driveshaft. Most would recommend NOT changing out the chassis, as you want the weight lower to counteract the body's weight up high.

If you don't have huge 1/8 jumps that make other 10th scales cry in fear of breaking, also give the air guards a shot.

My wife's truck runs mostly the bary baker setup with yellow Tekno springs all around, both indoors on packed dirt (medium bite when in great damp condition) and outdoors on our super high grip (might as well be sandpaper surface) with reasonable results.
I run 2 different setups, but after my last outdoor podium I stopped working on that setup further as it is now time to go indoors. I didn't think it was worthy of posting yet, but it basically boiled down to putting the rear and center braces back in, changing a rear camber link, putting the rear hubs all the way back, using stiffer front springs, stiffer anti-sway bars, and limiting droop more than normal. I normally run Tekno yellow in the rear with Kyosho orange up front for indoor and Kyosho light blue up front for outdoor (Tekno Yellow is closest to light blue).

I would suggest having some stiffer sway bars around to try messing with too. You can achieve similar results in some areas by just swapping springs, just swapping pistons, just swapping fluids, or just swapping sway bars...but other areas will change a bit different depending on which you use.