+ 100! :D

Does the mud guards not come with screws???:weird:

4mm & 5mm. Here are the sizes.
http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...TRUC-TEKSCT410

I would only run the tap half way in though to leave it with some bite. Tapped half way will free it up more than enough to make adjustments easy yet you don't have to worry about losing the setting.
Also smearing some ChapStick on the threads makes it easier to turn.

None included.

I wasn't saying Lazi meant harm, was just reinforcing that this is a unique thread sorry if it seemed that wat

Or just put black grease on the threads and put the turnbuckles in a drill chuck and tighten up on it like its a bit and then run it in and out of the rod end a couple times but not too fast cus u could melt the plastic

Yeah, mine are fine just with some ChapStick on the threads. No need to tap, bang, drill or anything :D

Thanks Man!

again a really wasn`t meant to be like that!
sorry i just moved in to USA 8 years ago and my english is not that good maybe i should use different words.

i just tried to share my experience.
when i started this hobby i read the forum and whatever mod they recommended on the thread i tried! sometimes worked sometimes dos not! and i spent a lots of money!

sorry again! and i really like to be part of this tread. before i got the tekno i researched here a lot!

Haha me too, I just screwed them in by hand w little grease on threads and they work great.

I'm having trouble with the shocks not rebounding. If u drop the tuck it will compress but is slow to come back up. And when it does come back up, it doesn't come all the way up. I checked the hinge pins and everything on the a arms. It is free. I rebuilt the shocks and everything is straight and free until I tighten the bottom cap down. I put new o rings in the bottom but it still seems tight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I'm confused, how high are you expecting it to bounce back? We can't help much without your oil weight and what springs? When you say you arms, do they fall under their own weight when springs and wheels are off, did you ream the hinge pin holes? How much rebound did you build into the shocks?

Sounds like you have verified that the outer pin and outer camber link is not tight and binding.

I assembled my truck after hearing others saying that the pins are tight in the arms. Figured they'd wear in and be good. After multiple times driving it the arms didn't really free up.

This is the only kit I've bought that I felt the need for an arm reamer. I bought a Hudy 4mm reamer and did them up before I drove last weekend and there was a huge difference. Felt like a well worn pin/arm without the slop.

Push down before and the suspension was slow to come back up, now it rebounds back to ride height at twice the speed... a nice and slickery feel :D

Sounds like you are ok with the pin/arm interface, but that's something to look at.

When building the shocks, if you tighten up the lower cap all the way and back it off just a hair, does it releave the sticktion and free it up? If so, run it and if it doesn't puke oil, that may be your fix.
Before you put oil in, slide the shaft up and down and get the lower cap as tight as possible without it squishing the moist orings so much it binds. Then fill with oil.

biggest issue with bound shocks is not shaving down the tabs from the parts tree on the spacers.

True, if there is the smallest of nubs left on the side of the spacer it will push it off center and cause friction in any shock.

Little Chapstick or grease on the threads and get a hudy 4mm turnbuckle wrench, no need for anything else