I'll make some changes regarding the tray mod (to show it as more of a tuning option, not anything required) and add some recommended starting setups.

anyway tekno can update the links on the tekno website to state what conditions the setup are for without having to open each one?

That's fair...

New-comers are getting the impression that is a requirement for proper handling - this is clearly not the case.

+1 its more a tuning aid than a necessity.

When I built my shocks in the beginning I put full rebound up front and nearly no rebound in the rear to try to prevent the nose down issue, I still have it but its not bad at all and I'm still running the stock springs and stock shock oils from the kit(for now)...although my truck is pushing big time in corners, if I even throttle just a hair I go from the inside to way wide so I literally have to roll through corners which I know is good but sometimes my truck nearly stops and its killing my lap times, any suggestions, I think the full rebound up front is one reason and the rear being too soft so there's too much transition in the front picking it up and pushing out?

For what it's worth I agree the battery mod is NOT a requirement however it worked for me. Also I had the jumping flat issue solved before I moved the battery and yet I still like the battery mod for tuning and running my truck. Lets just say it works for me.

I'm moving to an indoor set up and will be testing new springs and then thicker sway bars.

The cooling openings on the motor face are wasted because every motor mount covers up most all of that. The openings on the side are stupid, as they'll quickly get dirt in them from the front wheels throwing things up in the SCs. Many also attach a heat sink to the motor, and this will reduce the surface area to transfer heat from the can to that too.

I have seen a couple here that ran rebound in the front but none in the back but they seem to be a small minority.

I run stiffer springs than stock (like 99% of others) and the 8x1.3 pistons and have perfectly level flight. Zero rebound vented bladder build.

I would pull one of the SDRC setup sheets from Tekno's site and try that. Pretty sure any setup sheet you pull will require picking up some new springs.
Tekno green rear springs and Durango white/grey front (close to Tekno green) for me.

I don't think the holes on the mounting surface are for cooling but for weight. They drilled out all the excess material to shave a couple grams which is a good idea since sc trucks are a little on the heavy side. The side vents are going to catch a lot of dirt though which means your gonna be pulling the motor after every race day to clean it out that's a bit of a pain in the arse.

Just put some tape over the holes if that's the motors you want to use.
It will save you a bunch of trouble and work well. I've done this with several motors over the years... Not sure why they do that except for on road use only motors.

We'll see, it's not in production yet and those holes might not make the cut. ;) The endplate will stay that way because it's based on the D3.5's. My heatsink would cover those holes but who knows maybe it'll run cool enough that it won't be needed.

I am looking for a RX8 & hobbywing 4000kv esc settings. What should I start my current limiter at and should I run any timing. I was running a tekin 4600 @ 60% and 0 timing.

I run the 4700 and don't limit current much but that's track and personal preference dependent. Common is 60 to 90.

Timing I am running 50 (15°) and temping at about 140°ish. The HW motor likes timing unlike the pro4. But your timing will depend on what pinion your running. I'm running a 16t so I would think you should be 17t to 18t depending on the track size.

Just bring the netbook and temp gun to the track and figure out what works best for you, only takes a minute to make a change.

You know, I ran the trinity revtech 4xs and loved it... Till it needed rebuilt. I waited and waited for a chance to buy the special bearings or a sensor board and yet they were never made available. They also said the 550 4 poles were on the way as to which never appeared. I'm assuming these will be more of the same. Run amazing, run hot, and never be fully supported with replacement parts and need to be thrown away after the warranty is up.

I never had a bearing problem but can't imagine Boca wouldn't have a replacement. Do you remember what was special about them? I had to replace a sensor board and never had an issue getting it.

I'll be getting the 5200 to try as soon as they are available. I've been super happy with my 4800 and the HW fan keeps it 160° or less so the new motor does have something to prove. I'll let you guys know how they compare.

Looking forward to trying a HW V3.1 with the 4800 this weekend.