Ok ya I'm also gonna pick up that Novak heat sink that think looks like it could easily take out 20*

+1, the 8x1.3 correct the nose diving for me too.

I forgot to mention that you have to cut it to fit. It's pretty thick so I had to use my angle grinder to cut a notch for the wires, and I also had to cut about an inch off of one side so wouldn't hit the center brace. It's a pretty tight fit but I got it to work, after I modified it I can slip off the motor with no problem.

Ya it's no big deal I have plenty of tools to do the job how much difference in temp did you see with that heat sink? That one makes others look like crap I really like the size of that one

If its too aggressive you can move to the front Ackerman position and sweep your arms back. I switched to indoors this weekend and those two changes really helped settle the steering down on the high bite without loosing the ability to turn under others.

Alright cool, I saw my motor temps drop by at least 15 degrees. It really helps keep things cooler.

hey guys I am a n00b with this truck. A few of my bleeder screw o-rings busted and I did not see any replacement parts for them on any website. What are you guys using for replacements? Also what shock springs are you guys using for nose drives?

I'm running tekno greens front and rear and it's working perfectly

Tkr5125 should work for ya.

Thanks guys.. What are you running in the shocks?

Front: Tekno CNC 8x1.4, 40wt AE oil, 1/4in rebound, Tekno yellow spring

Rear: Tekno CNC 8x1.4, 35wt AE oil, 1/4in rebound, Tenko red spring

I have been working on a new setup for the truck since my old one was good, but my buggy prooved its wasn't good enough. I did a bit of testing down in Ramos land and he helped me out quite a bit. I am waiting on some parts before I tear into cleaning and rebuilding, when they get here i'll fill out a setup sheet and share away.

What are the rear toe option's with the stock kit? 1 Out, 0, 1 In? I know they make the +1.5mm plate which says it does 3,4&5, so I am curious if that then means the stock kit is 1.5, 2.5 & 3.5? My curiosity stems from all the setup sheets that indicate 4.5* toe and I don't see how to set that with either of these plates.

first post has a breakdown of toe in settings, its a combo with the rear hub carriers that are +1 or -1 depending on how you orient them.

Setup changes during races?
 

Hey guys I have been racing for about a year now and getting better pretty quickly since changing to Tekno. I feel like I have a good understanding of setup and what different changes do to the truck. I'm looking to take it to the next level and want to get better at making setup changes after qualifiers and before the main's. My question to all of you seasoned veterans, what are the main things you concentrate on when making adjustments after a qualifier if needed. I'm trying to get a feel for what I should be looking for and what I should be focused on with setup changes. I understand tires is one of them, and that's something I do now but looking for other tips on what I should be paying attention to during the race that I may need to address after a qualifier. Hope this makes sense. I see racers making changes all the time and getting better as the day goes on, so I feel like I'm missing something other than tires.

Also, how much do you change setup between outdoor and indoor? Tires I know are usually one place but what other things do you change, shock mounting location, shock oil, ride height, etc.

To confirm, for vented shock build you run bladders, drill the bleed hole at the top but don't screw in the bleeder screws?

If that is true when would you drill the hole in the side of the cap?