Dave,

I think it is the cut of the teeth, but not sure how you would tell by just looking at it. They V2 diffs are a different case I think and might have something identifiable from that aspect, I just do not know.

Last night's shake down was interesting. Track is not ebuggy friendly (too small and tight), but Stealth RT seems to be correct. Even with 60wt oil in the front, I am way under dampened. Rear actually felt decent, but the front was just too soft, leading to traction rolling and the front wanting to dive way too much. With V1 springs, I may change to Max's setup instead of back to the CSI pistons just to see how they feel.

Otherwise handling wasn't too bad. Turn in was predictable, though not quite as much as I would like, especially off power. Back end could be brought around fairly easily, especially on power. I will see what it is like on an open outdoor track, but I was able to negotiate the tight 10th scale track ok. The thicker oil in the center felt good to me but will see once I have tire options and the outdoors.

Very cool, I have V1 gears anyway which I expected.

Don't be afraid to keep going up in front oil. I've seen setups that call for 800-850 cst front oil. I'm not saying you can't get the Fiorini pistons to work, I just don't think you'll see the slower compression/faster rebound benefits from the o-ring design.

sorry new to the buggy, but why does the rear shock show 2 pistons? Is this described somewhere in this thread or is there a piston that has 6 holes with 2 diff size holes?

6 hole piston with 2 different sizes. Probably started with the 6 hole 1.3 standard piston and opened up 3 holes to 1.4. The CSI pistons work along a similar idea, with larger and smaller holes in combination. CSI's are also tapered and probably have other fancy things I don't know about too.

tks!

60wt associated lists to be 800, though I know that varies a bit. I don't have anything thicker in AE unless I go to 1000wt diff oil. I have some SpecR 750wt also, but I think using proven pistons may make more sense instead of mickey mousing with these.

I appreciate the help, and will let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

Usually moving the rear shocks to the inside hole on the arm or softening up the rear shocks makes the car rotate more. It also depends where you are at to start with on your setup. You can also try the #1 ackerman bar is helps in 180, moving the rear wheelbase back.

Check out the "note" section on the setup sheet.

Thanks chicky

I also remembered that I have a pair of -2mm hexes I got in a spare parts lot. Will narrowing the front or rear give better rotation?

Dave. you are gonna really like this buggy. With this car i was fast enough to beat Jason on Hals track. Its fast, durable, and the changes are really noticeable. You wont need many spares, just springs, oils, rollbars, tires. The only things I would really buy for it are the aluminum wing mounts supports, ackerman bars for the steering, steering servo horn to be safe. I never really broke anything. Always use a good allen driver though, the plastic is really tough. Oh yea and on all the inner camber links run longer screws and lock nuts. No matter what I did i could not get the screws to stay tight until I changed to the longer screw/nut combo. Serpent FTW !

You cant really go narrower than 0 in the front. depending on what wheels you use the back of the arm will rub the ribs. -2 is std for the rear. Most everyone runs the stock roll center blocks and 6 inserts all around in the rear, that should help if you have more anti squat than that.

Ran Max's Motorama setup today for the most part, didn't get to set ride height before the first heat, and it was great... until the motor cratered with 30 seconds left. Don't know what quite happened yet to it. When I went through the car there were a couple questionable bearings so something must have let go. I didn't have replacements

Turned in well and was VERY predictable and easy to drive. With the 1.0 diffs I ran 7/5/3. Would have only gotten better thru the day as we had an early shower before racing started.

Can't wait for next week if I can make it out to race.

Ohhh I ran it last year and it was good, but that was just with however it came to me from the person that I bought it from. It came with the longer screws You know me I don't have anything without TONS of spares. The only thing I really don't have is bearings for it. Have all hudy tools. The arms HAVE TO BE REAMED. While rebuilding the car I realized the rear hinge pins were stuck in the arms. I got them out reamed them and BUTTAH.

Hope you are doing well. I think JB gets back soon!

Any problem with running the wing from the original 811 on a 2.0? Ordered the original wing by accident instead of the low profile 2.0 wing.
is it probably not a good idea since I think the wing mount was redesigned for the low profile wing on the 2.0's ?

They are supposed to be tight in the arms because the hinge pin rotates in the plastic inserts. The hinge pins are rounded on the ends so no matter what toe or anti squat they are never bound up. Other cars the pin rotates in the arm which there is more of a chance of them getting bound up and squeaky rotating in the arm. You can even have a bent hinge pin with our car and as long as its not crazy bent the arm will still move free.