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Old 03-06-2014 | 04:41 AM
  #4636  
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Originally Posted by orcadigital
So got the 811 out this weekend. Track was loamy and damp in the morning, turning to dusty hard pack later in the day. Traction was low to medium.

Went in with a handful of new things to try. I did dump the Fioroni pistons and went to Max's setup with 1.4 and 1.3/1.4 stock pistons, same oil, same springs. Biggest difference is running 7/10/5 in the diffs. Car was drivable, but back end was not planted, especially on hard acceleration out of the corners, much more so where it was off-camber or rutted. Started making changes. Went from 30wt to 25wt in the rear shocks, several spring changes front and rear, raised the rear roll center, upper shock mounts, etc. By the end, the back end was a little better, but still nowhere near what the 2 MP9's I drove were. It jumped extremely well, and was able to rotate the car under breaking to dive in under other cars in the corners. The 2 issues were accelerating onto the 2 straights and the back end washing out (one off camber, the other rutted), and one bump section that was a small triple leading into some random bumps. If I landed between the triple and the bumps, and ran light throttle, I was ok. If the car landed in the bumps, or I tried to accelerate or brake in them, the car went wonky.

I did not have any spare diffs with me, but I am assuming that the bumps section is due more to the 10k center diff, though the 7k front maybe as well. Some suggested lowering the rear also to 3k from 5k also. All V1 diffs.

Car overall was fun though, qualified 6th in the B, finished 9th due to a bad tire change choice (switched between rounds, and was good before they blew off the track, then side bite was too high and traction rolled) and some unlucky marshalling. I am enjoying making the changes and feeling what they do. I am enjoying less the gallon of shock oil necessary for an oil change, but such is 8th scale.

I did also get to try the light blue kyosho springs that are so touted. At least with the oil/piston package I had, they were not good for me, both in the bumps and over the smaller jumps. Back to the V1 Serpent springs I have and was much more consistent.
The kyosho springs are too stiff for our car. You'll want to runa v1 green or v2 orange. Like RCq said don't fill the diff too much. With all the gears in you should have about 1mm of gap under the top gear not filled. Make sure you also grease the out drive shafts well because our diffs don't leak so they are not self lubricating like the other brands, that's also why you can fill them too much. 10 is a bit stiff in the center. I'd stay around 5-7 unless you are on a super high bite and smooth track.
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Old 03-06-2014 | 05:25 AM
  #4637  
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Originally Posted by chicky03
The kyosho springs are too stiff for our car. You'll want to runa v1 green or v2 orange. Like RCq said don't fill the diff too much. With all the gears in you should have about 1mm of gap under the top gear not filled. Make sure you also grease the out drive shafts well because our diffs don't leak so they are not self lubricating like the other brands, that's also why you can fill them too much. 10 is a bit stiff in the center. I'd stay around 5-7 unless you are on a super high bite and smooth track.
Just to add a bit to what Chicky said regarding springs. I played with Kyosho blues for a while as that was the best spring combination I found when I was running outdoor with the nitro v1 car a few years ago. I just round them too stiff for the new rear geometry and the overall package.

As Chicky said, V1 green or V2 orange springs does seem to be the best overall spring package for the V2 rear geometry.
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Old 03-06-2014 | 05:59 AM
  #4638  
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Originally Posted by RavensNightFury
hey guys what do you think motor I should get for a large outdoor track 1/8 scale
1900 is fine, 2050 if you really want to go crazy. I run a 1900 Tekin Gen1, which was just fine on one of our outdoor tracks, average 35 second lap time.

Originally Posted by rcq
For The. V1. Diff The most I like 5 7 3 oils. And I find one thing, they do not like if you fill to them to much oil.
When I fill less oil diffs started to work better.
I fill till the top of the small gears shaft is just covered, so I do not think I was overfilled. New orings as well, and no leaking so far in the center or rear.

Originally Posted by chicky03
The kyosho springs are too stiff for our car. You'll want to runa v1 green or v2 orange. Like RCq said don't fill the diff too much. With all the gears in you should have about 1mm of gap under the top gear not filled. Make sure you also grease the out drive shafts well because our diffs don't leak so they are not self lubricating like the other brands, that's also why you can fill them too much. 10 is a bit stiff in the center. I'd stay around 5-7 unless you are on a super high bite and smooth track.
I agree, which is why they were only on a single run. I have green V1's on the rear now which felt much better. Good tip on the shafts too. I always do out of habit, but it's not something I thought about in those terms. I did just drop the center to 5k, so 7/5/5 right now. I will build up another diff with 3k in it so I can swap the rear to try it.

Track was low/med traction, and fairly bumpy. I am a bit confused on what lowering the rear from 5 to 3 might do. I spent a couple hours researching it, and it seems that thinner rear oil will cause the rear to rotate more in the corners. My issue is not corners, but acceleration out of the corners and it wanting to rotate. I think the center may have been the cause, but will know more once I try it with 5k.

Originally Posted by jkirkwood
Just to add a bit to what Chicky said regarding springs. I played with Kyosho blues for a while as that was the best spring combination I found when I was running outdoor with the nitro v1 car a few years ago. I just round them too stiff for the new rear geometry and the overall package.

As Chicky said, V1 green or V2 orange springs does seem to be the best overall spring package for the V2 rear geometry.
Yeah, I think I saw someone had put them on recently in a picture on this thread, so wanted to try it. Was not happy with the performance at all.

Question, I have a partial set of V1 springs. Should I try and fill in the gaps, or just pick up the V2 spring sets and call it good? Are the rear V2 springs longer to accomidate the longer shocks?

Overall, I was quite pleased. It is the best I have had the buggy running, and even with the inconsistency in my driving and changing setups each time, I was still on par with where I was last year with my conversion car that felt great. It just means there is a lot more speed in it, and looking forward to finding it!
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Old 03-06-2014 | 06:28 AM
  #4639  
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Originally Posted by orcadigital
Question, I have a partial set of V1 springs. Should I try and fill in the gaps, or just pick up the V2 spring sets and call it good? Are the rear V2 springs longer to accomidate the longer shocks?
I would probably just get the V2 springs myself. Actually since putting the V2 Orange and blue front (both v2) I haven't really thought about changing my springs, just sway bars. Last weekend I should had increased my static dampening a bit but I was lazy with it and didn't. Still had one of the fast laps of the day if not the fastest. My driving was off par in 1/8th last weekend, and couldn't get a flow for the track.

When it comes to setup's on the 1/8th platform Chicky is the one to listen to. I just toss my car down and go and wait for him to tell me to change it. My concentration and passion lies with the 2wd and that thing is was dialed!

Last edited by jkirkwood; 03-06-2014 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 03-06-2014 | 06:48 AM
  #4640  
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If the car is unsettled in the bumps and and needs more onpower grip try a 2.3 rear swaybar. For sure it will help in the bumps, the on power traction Ive had a thinner or thicker on work at times, for sure when they blow of the track you wont flip as easy with the 2.3 rear. That could solve a lot of things you are experiencing.
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Old 03-06-2014 | 07:59 AM
  #4641  
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Originally Posted by chicky03
If the car is unsettled in the bumps and and needs more onpower grip try a 2.3 rear swaybar. For sure it will help in the bumps, the on power traction Ive had a thinner or thicker on work at times, for sure when they blow of the track you wont flip as easy with the 2.3 rear. That could solve a lot of things you are experiencing.
Sorry I never mentioned sway bars. I have the wires instead of the regular bars. I was running 2.5mm front, 2.3mm rear. I went to to a 2.1 in the rear midway throughout the day which helped and was part of the overall softening of the rear end. I was told the wires equate to a bit harder regular bar (2.1 wire = 2.3 bar, etc).I had tried laying down the rear shocks (upper on middle hole to one hole in from that) and it got even more loose. Went up one hole (2nd from outer) and that stabilized it some. Raising the inner camber link one hole helped as well.

Gut still says I was doing everything to compensate for too heavy of oil in the center for the conditions.

Not gonna lie, would love to have someone else out here running an 811 to bounce ideas off of. Curtis has cut way back on RC, and we never managed to make it to the same race last year. At least I have some folks to play 2wd with
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Old 03-06-2014 | 08:46 AM
  #4642  
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Originally Posted by orcadigital
Sorry I never mentioned sway bars. I have the wires instead of the regular bars. I was running 2.5mm front, 2.3mm rear. I went to to a 2.1 in the rear midway throughout the day which helped and was part of the overall softening of the rear end. I was told the wires equate to a bit harder regular bar (2.1 wire = 2.3 bar, etc).I had tried laying down the rear shocks (upper on middle hole to one hole in from that) and it got even more loose. Went up one hole (2nd from outer) and that stabilized it some. Raising the inner camber link one hole helped as well.

Gut still says I was doing everything to compensate for too heavy of oil in the center for the conditions.

Not gonna lie, would love to have someone else out here running an 811 to bounce ideas off of. Curtis has cut way back on RC, and we never managed to make it to the same race last year. At least I have some folks to play 2wd with
I never tired the wire swaybars. Maybe the front it too stiff and the car can't lean over even front to back and that making it loose. "If" the wire swaybar is stiffer than the regular ones it would seem to me the front would be too stiff.
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Old 03-09-2014 | 03:03 PM
  #4643  
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Chicky,
I picked up a used one of these to run at LCRC, do you still recommend the Nats warm up setup posted on the serpent site or something else?

Thanks!
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Old 03-09-2014 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Chr1s
Chicky,
I picked up a used one of these to run at LCRC, do you still recommend the Nats warm up setup posted on the serpent site or something else?

Thanks!
Max motorama setup is pretty close to what Joe ran at the nats at Lcrc so I would start there.
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Old 03-10-2014 | 12:53 AM
  #4645  
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Hi there,

I was wondering if anyone has weighed an 811E 2.0 with no electronics. We are recently getting a big interest locally in running a 1/8 class with 2 cell and a 4wd SC system. I recently changed to a serpent in 2wd buggy and am finding it very durable. Thank you for your time.
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Old 03-10-2014 | 07:04 AM
  #4646  
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So got the 811 back out over the weekend. It was the first of 3 races in a series, and first time at that track this year. Layout was changed right before the event.

It rained Thursday and Friday, so Saturday morning arrived damp and muddy. I had made 2 changes recommended on here, center diff oil down to 5k (7/5/5 now) and softer front sway bar (wire style, went from 2.3 to 2.1). Once the sun was up, tossed on some Sweep Battle Stars and went out. Track was wet, but traction was great. Buggy felt wonderful, with tons of turning but a very stable rear. Put in the hands of a Team Durango driver (friend and closest thing to a Serpent besides mine) and he felt it actually turned too much. Turned down the dual rate to 84% and the car felt smooth and easy to drive. Before qualifying, switched to the Opt 2 steering bar (from the Opt 3) just to feel the difference. First qualifier, went out, and with the track still pretty muddy, the car developed on on power push, especially through the sweeper. Changed back to the Opt 3 bar and changed tires to Sweep Square Armors as the track began to dry some. The push was gone, though the back end was loosening up also. Watching the other cars, this seemed to be consistent as the track dried and traction went away. The end of the straight was rutting in and flipping cars, so went to 3.5* front camber (from 3*). 3rd qualifier went well, finishing 2nd, and with the qual points system, put me 9th overall and in the A-Main. Decided to go into the main without changes, though agonized over tires the entire time. Held back at the start, and drove around the first corner wreck. First lap, ticked in in 3rd place. Jumping onto the 90* turn table top, turned in too early (before I landed) and rolled it. The entire field drove by before the marshall got to my car, and ticked by on the 2nd lap in 13th place. Calmed down, and with 8 min to go, just started running down laps. I had made it back up to battling for 8th, when an in-air incident in the last corner put me upside down. Finished 9th.

Overall the car was good, though the back end was a little skatey by the main, but only in certain spots. I was noticing the same with most everyone though, and think it was the track more then anything else. The buggy handled the bumpy rutted sections well, and took a pretty big mis-cue from me to roll over. Car jumped and flew well, transitioned well, and I was able to get on the throttle before the car had settled without it throwing me off. I still want to try 3k in the rear diff to see what it feels like, but it seems like my major issues are all solved, and it is practice and small tweaks that will show the most improvement.
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Old 03-10-2014 | 09:36 AM
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TE=orcadigital;13082859]So got the 811 back out over the weekend. It was the first of 3 races in a series, and first time at that track this year. Layout was changed right before the event.

It rained Thursday and Friday, so Saturday morning arrived damp and muddy. I had made 2 changes recommended on here, center diff oil down to 5k (7/5/5 now) and softer front sway bar (wire style, went from 2.3 to 2.1). Once the sun was up, tossed on some Sweep Battle Stars and went out. Track was wet, but traction was great. Buggy felt wonderful, with tons of turning but a very stable rear. Put in the hands of a Team Durango driver (friend and closest thing to a Serpent besides mine) and he felt it actually turned too much. Turned down the dual rate to 84% and the car felt smooth and easy to drive. Before qualifying, switched to the Opt 2 steering bar (from the Opt 3) just to feel the difference. First qualifier, went out, and with the track still pretty muddy, the car developed on on power push, especially through the sweeper. Changed back to the Opt 3 bar and changed tires to Sweep Square Armors as the track began to dry some. The push was gone, though the back end was loosening up also. Watching the other cars, this seemed to be consistent as the track dried and traction went away. The end of the straight was rutting in and flipping cars, so went to 3.5* front camber (from 3*). 3rd qualifier went well, finishing 2nd, and with the qual points system, put me 9th overall and in the A-Main. Decided to go into the main without changes, though agonized over tires the entire time. Held back at the start, and drove around the first corner wreck. First lap, ticked in in 3rd place. Jumping onto the 90* turn table top, turned in too early (before I landed) and rolled it. The entire field drove by before the marshall got to my car, and ticked by on the 2nd lap in 13th place. Calmed down, and with 8 min to go, just started running down laps. I had made it back up to battling for 8th, when an in-air incident in the last corner put me upside down. Finished 9th.

Overall the car was good, though the back end was a little skatey by the main, but only in certain spots. I was noticing the same with most everyone though, and think it was the track more then anything else. The buggy handled the bumpy rutted sections well, and took a pretty big mis-cue from me to roll over. Car jumped and flew well, transitioned well, and I was able to get on the throttle before the car had settled without it throwing me off. I still want to try 3k in the rear diff to see what it feels like, but it seems like my major issues are all solved, and it is practice and small tweaks that will show the most improvement.[/QUOTE]

Love those technical reports )
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Old 03-10-2014 | 03:52 PM
  #4648  
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Finally got my 1.0 really dialed in on Sunday. Tried the -2mm hexes and yellow V1 springs in the rear. Started the day with purple V1 fronts, then switched to pink V1's and those were the ticket.

I run on a small indoor clay track, tight and technical. I'm not the fastest since I lack consistency, but when I do my part the Serpent is the most nimble buggy out there.
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Old 03-11-2014 | 05:46 AM
  #4649  
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Originally Posted by simplechamp
Finally got my 1.0 really dialed in on Sunday. Tried the -2mm hexes and yellow V1 springs in the rear. Started the day with purple V1 fronts, then switched to pink V1's and those were the ticket.

I run on a small indoor clay track, tight and technical. I'm not the fastest since I lack consistency, but when I do my part the Serpent is the most nimble buggy out there.
I still have the purple V1 front springs on and liking them, though very different track type. What were you experiencing with the purples that made you want to change?
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Old 03-11-2014 | 06:29 AM
  #4650  
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Can anyone recommend a good starting point setup for a smoother outdoor dirt track.

Just getting into 8th scale and went serpent after liking the SRX-2MM.

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