When does it fishtail? Under acceleration, braking, neutral? Into the corner or out of the corner? On landing from jumps or just on the flats? How bumpy is the track where you are experiencing this?

I had something that may have been similar, where coming out of the corner on a bumpy section if I got on it, the back end wanted to get loose. I made several adjustments during the day including standing up the rear shocks, going to 27.5 like you did (from 30), going to the green springs, softening the rear sway and raising the rear inner upper camber links. Those helped, but did not get me there. Chicky and some others posted some help, and the 2 other big changes was softening the front sway from 2.3 to 2.1mm (wire style which we are assuming acts like the next step harder regular bar, so 2.5 to 2.3). The other change was thinner center diff oil. I have V1 diffs, and was running 7/10/5, and went to 7/5/5 and the back end is much more locked in on acceleration. It rotates in the corners and under braking where I want it to.

I do have the 2.0 rear end which may or may not play a factor into it depending on where and why your back end is coming loose.

My car fishtails mid corner to late corner. Not when braking. I too stood the rear shocks up and also raised the rear camber link on the rear shock tower. I am running 5/7/3 in the diffs. I have a 2.5mm sway bar in the front. So you are suggesting to go thinner in the center diff and soften the front sway bar to 2.3 for example. What about increasing the rear toe in?

I would recommend those 2 exactly. 2.3mm front sway and 5k center diff and see how it feels. Those were the 2 changes I made and it solved my issues. Mine was primarily on corner exit, and much worse on bumpy parts where the back end just started wagging. If I recall correctly, Chicky said 2.5 in the front was too thick, but you can look back in the last half dozen pages and see most of the thoughts. The sway bar change was 2 minutes, the center diff a little more work. I want to try 3 in the rear but just haven't put the time in yet.

Try making the link longer in the rear. Go out one hole on the rear hubs.

Nope, the larger 8x16 outdrive bearings and V3 center driveline were first used on the original Be before they ever hit the Nitro car. Yes, some of the plastic has changed since then but the question was about bearings. Remember the electric car came quite a bit after the nitro car, like a year. The Version 2 electric car was just the rear end update mainly.

I just picked up the S811 sport buggy. I wanted something inexpensive to run Ebuggy as I have 2 nitro cars I run also and would like the chance to switch off if I don't feel like nitro... Anyway, Can anyone recommend some upgrades? I plan to upgrade the rear axles bc I don't trust the dog bones and maybe get the aluminum rear hubs...

Good to know! Guess it means I need to go check out what I have as it really is a hodge podge of nitro and electric and 1.0/2.0. The rear is a 2.0 that I pulled from a nitro car I ended up with, but the front should be original be.

I am running all plastics for hubs, uprights, etc and have never had an issue either with excessive play or breakage. I have some aluminum bits that I never installed, but based on the above, they are probably V1 as they came with my nitro car. The axles are good, and I am a fan of some of the little things like the webbed bladders. I personally prefer an all metal front shock tower for durability (i'd rather bend then break as I will still finish a race). You may want to look at the different option ackerman bars (2 and 3 are the most common, think the sport comes with the equivalent of the 2, but not sure). I also prefer the metal hinge pin blocks instead of the plastics on the sport. You could always just replace as you break, but as I have yet to break anything on the car, that has not worked yet.

Welcome to Serpent!

My rear camber link is already in this position.

The aluminum rear hubs are nice pieces but if you are looking for inexpensive they are not. :-)

Really, if you bought the RTR to save money, I would just run it as is and maybe buy some tuning parts and tires. Replace parts with the "pro" parts as they wear out or if something breaks.

I agree with to the guy that posted that the plastic rear hubs etc. are durable. I am running them and there is no need to change anything on this car except for the cheap nylon nuts. I think they are 3mm, but not one hundred percent sure. I did go through two serpent wings though. I installed an old Jammin Wing and have had no problems since... I also have the front alum. shock tower and can attest to its durability. If I were you, I would run the car and replace anything should it break..

I bought the kit. Just finished building it and noticed that the kit is lacking a few things. I guess that's what they do for keeping the costs down. Having driving all Kyosho... I didn't want to spend $800 on a new MP9 when I have the nitro version anyway. I think my first upgrade will be the front and rear drive shafts...

Well I went to the extreme with my rear toe in to 4.5 degrees. This solved my loose rear end. It worked pretty well on a dusty track, but as the track grooved up and gained traction I had plenty of traction, but the car pushed a lot. Subsequently, I will drop the rear toe in to 3.5 or 4 and experiment.

On another note, my car is jumping nose high. I can generally control it with throttle control, but I do feel I need to tame the beast. What can I do to make the car jump more level? Stiffer springs for the front? What about droop settings? Thanks in advance.

Do you know what internal diff gears you have? 5/7/3 in the diffs is really light for the newest internals. For the nose high it just depends on if the front of the car is bouncing off the face of the jumps more than the rear. Or some times a nose high jumping is just too much throttle when jumping, this makes the car rotate back right after the jump.

I have the V1 diffs. Original Serpent 811 be

I'm running 5/7/3 in mine(1.0 diffs), but with 2.0 rear end. I'm running 4.0* of rear toe on a med bumpy/dusty track. I don't have a problem with pushing or loose rearend. using Max's setup and option 1 ackerman. Ran fastest lap and TQ'ed on Saturday. I keep having small issues here and there and can't seem to get the car to thru the main(not a manufacturing issue). Time to rebuild the front end now.