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Originally Posted by Attacker
(Post 10423200)
Thank you very much for the reply, very helpful. So I think my first step is to properly run the truck, with my setup, just checking temps, then gear accordingly. Hopefully, the 25c packs will be enough.
How could one go about figuring out what amps a motor will draw? Also, if I am to go up to a 3s, which I won't, but just for knowledge sake, would the amps go up or down? I might be way off, but I heard the 1410 has an amp draw of 160A, and with my calculation, my battery's will only be able to supply 75A, is this correct or am I wrong? Cheers Ramon Basically you buy the ESC rated for the scale/class of model and smoothness of throttle, programming options, etc. become much more important than how much power it can handle since the most popular ESC are fine. From there it's all about motor temps and gearing just high enough to get top speed on the fastest part of the track without over temping the motor or ESC. Usually the motor will have heat issues before the ESC in my experience. |
Slightly OT:
What chassis did Mark A. run? I used to race with him at SoCal, he was no slouch as a driver and an even better wrench. |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 10424378)
hey cameron !
nice job dude ....:tire: Taking the win in 2w mod invitational 4w mod Truck mod 4x4 SC :tire::tire::tire::tire: |
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 10424312)
You're running way too heavy shock oil. go to 25-30 all around. Then your shocks will actually compress and absorb the landings. Also run them as emulsion, that should help.
I'll try 27.5 all around and go from there. |
Originally Posted by CraigMBA
(Post 10424449)
Slightly OT:
What chassis did Mark A. run? I used to race with him at SoCal, he was no slouch as a driver and an even better wrench. Yeah Mark is very good and we battle often. |
Originally Posted by pakk
(Post 10424476)
My tuning skills are not very good, but I was thinking that direction. I did go from 37/32 and found that 40 all around made the truck handle the turns better. Since then, I have been playing with roll center and feel the truck is very dialed in the turns. I just need to get the right combo now. Maybe messing with the shock oil was a mis-stepped dirction.
I'll try 27.5 all around and go from there. |
Originally Posted by CraigMBA
(Post 10424275)
If I were you, I would put a 4mm limiter inside of the shock (which I'm assuming is too much) and adjust from there. If you need to unscrew more than 2 turns, I'd take the shocks apart and pull out 2mm of limiters.
Particularly with the 550 motor, I would not be afraid to go straight to yellow fronts in the rear if blue fronts made it better. Frankly, if I could get a spring that was stiffer than yellow fronts, I would - and I'd put the 550 back in.
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 10424257)
Cain , your set-up looks really good .
Your set-up is almost just like way I run my ride .... Rolling over ? Try installing external limiter's on all four shocks , use 3m or 4m thick spacers. Picture of your track ? Here is a link to pics from one of the races. The track configuration is different now, but gives you an idea of the available space. Can you elaborate on what the externals will do? I don't play much with limiting the uptravel of the shock unless I had an issue it was causing like part damage on other vehicles. As it stands, the current setup may only need a few tweaks.
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 10424281)
What swaybars are you using? Are you playing with roll center? Try a simple 2 mm washer in rear camber link under shock tower.
Originally Posted by rcmark17
(Post 10424300)
I just installed a Tekin 7.5 550 sc4x paired to a GTB last night. The indoor carpet track i race at is 60x40. I geared it at 62s-14p the motor never went over 100* with 20 minutes of run time on it and it ate up all the other lousys there. Also to help with my rolling over it has been lowered and 125000 oil in front diff and 30000 in rear diff. Not sure if it is right but drives smooth and works for me.
The 7K Front, 5K rear felt really good. I should get in some 10K to try again, just wish I could get to the front diff a little faster LOL I do get a bit of rear bounce off of the jumps, basically smacking the rear end more than what I would call normal. I think I will up the oil a tad there, maybe 2.5W more and see how it goes too. Unfortunately the track is an hour away and the practice times available are during the week, can't make it. |
Cain , I race at three Indoor tracks in the Puget Sound area of Washington state.
BRCR , TRCR, 4-Seasons all clay , bout med in size , med traction conditions for all. The external limiter will stop the truck from tipping over as far as with out. , will stay more level on sharp turns . external limiter good solution for roll over problems on tight layouts |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 10424609)
Cain , I race at three Indoor tracks in the Puget Sound area of Washington state.
BRCR , TRCR, 4-Seasons all clay , bout med in size , med traction conditions for all. The external limiter will stop the truck from tipping over as far as with out. , will stay more level on sharp turns . external limiter good solution for roll over problems on tight layouts Really wish AE had made the option for droop screws somehow ... |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 10424781)
Thanks. I'll look into giving that a try as well. I can easily use some clips I have that will fit on the shock shaft to do the limiting quickly.
Really wish AE had made the option for droop screws somehow ... So U know I never use droop screws , a little dirt or a small rock & your droop gets "screwed"... Internal limiters will never have that issue ... The clips will do great , I use Ae 1/10th pistons ,looks yeah know ..:D |
Originally Posted by pakk
(Post 10423662)
2nd day out yesterday and I'm still not very happy with how this truck lands. It's not very forgiving. The truck has to land perfect or else it tends to bounce on landings. When it does land perfect, it's perfect. But I'm far from a perfect driver and I'm looking for some forgiveness in the landings. Everything else on the truck seems to be good and handles good. I do have the 2 stage pistons, but I wanted to get a few more race days under my belt to really compare how they do.
Currently I'm running yellow front, blue rears, and 40wt front and back. I forget what pistons I'm running. What direction, as far as tuning, should I be going to trying to help this? |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 10424824)
So U know
I never use droop screws , a little dirt or a small rock & your droop gets "screwed"... Internal limiters will never have that issue ... The clips will do great , I use Ae 1/10th pistons ,looks yeah know ..:D |
Originally Posted by ilanstylz
(Post 10424888)
I'm no expert so maybe Mantis or some others can chime in, but I think your problem is the shock oil, IMO your running to heavy a wt for the front and rear. If I remember correctly Mantis states that a good starting point is 20w rear and about 25w or so in front. And I read somewhere he stated that if you use to heavy wt shock oil can damage the lower piston. So try dropping down your shock wt and see how it goes from there.........
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 10424472)
Thanks! AE did well in Kyosho's house. :D
Taking the win in 2w mod invitational 4w mod Truck mod 4x4 SC :tire::tire::tire::tire:
Originally Posted by pakk
(Post 10424952)
I believe you are referring to the starting point when running 2 stage pistons. It does seem to be the consensus that my shock oil is heavy though. I'll give it a shot.
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 10424985)
All Cav? Or what did he race? I avoided the place like the Plague all weekend.
in A1 of Mod truck he ran the last two laps on three wheels and still took the win. :lol: He did loose A2 pretty fair and square then punished everyone in A3. Fun to watch for sure. |
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