It replaces the use of the slipper pads...... And it can be purchased from..

RCSHOX.COM

The truck has about 15 packs total on it. (3 break in packs, and a race weekend)

Ive spun it with my drill for about 45 seconds, and it helped some, but i dont remember it having a tight spot when i built the truck. The gears are spotless too, so theres no gunk or dirt causing it.

Im sure your right though. I will have to put a few more packs through it, and see if it free's up.

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...20379620_n.jpg

Little shout out for RCShox Products. I'm still using the standard slipper with RCShox garodisc pad on the out side of the slipper. My slipper nut failed in my second main when I was almost lapping second place. Ran the next eight laps with the slipper slipping so bad I could just barely make the big double if I went all the way to the wall and made a run at it. I held on for the win by only a few seconds. The slipper was HOT has .... The stock inner pad destroyed from the heat but the garodisc still looked new. The pad also kept the truck moving which I needed to get the over all win. THANKS Marcus!

Ran: RCShox steering rack, pistons, and slipper pads.

Congrats.

Someday i'll be able to pace you, Cameron. Someday. :deathstar

Amen!

Raced at a friend's backyard track (huge-open lot), and it was set up like that. Calibers, roosting, whoops sections, and berm/banked turns. Super fun. Racing was honor system, last started up front, first had to be mid pack. 2 and 4wd sc10s came home a little muddy, but it was the best day on a track in a long time!! Very much mini LOORS!!!! Better than sweating tenths of seconds and running perfect lines.

Congrats buddy:tire:

A-Plus SC10 4x4 Opition Parts
 

A Plus SC10 4x4 Alu. Front Arm Mount #11010

Attachment 889003

A Plus SC10 4x4 Alu. Rear Arm Mount (3-2) #11013

Attachment 889004

Battery power issue
 

Hello,
I hope this is an alright place to post this.

I'm a newb at the electric scene, and I recently got the 4x4 kit. Built it finished, put all my electronics in and took it out and... Kinda pathetic performance. Yes, it's my fault, but I would like to confirm where I went wrong.

My setup,

Castle 1410 3800kv Motor
Castle Mamba Max Pro ESC
Reedy Wolfpack 3000mah 2S 25c packs.

16t pinion. 32 pitch. Stock 32 pitch spur, 62t I believe?

I believe that my problem is first that the batteries only supply 3 x 25 = 75 amps, not the 160 of the 1410.

Also, the 16t pinion is geared way high, I noticed this afterwards.

The motor also gets warm fast, this could be false since I just blasted around on tar,ad for about 2 minutes, but my velineon in my trades took much longer to heat up.

I find it strange that motor companies do not state amp draws or so, or am I missing something, cause I couldn't find any sort of ballpark amp draw spec for the 1410. I come from a electric flight background where motors give an amp rating, is this cause it's more constant with props than drive lines?

Either way, what do you think could be the reason for my bad performance, am I thinking right or am I thinking about things wrong.

Also, how does one go about figuring out what will work in a setup like this, cause how do you know what amps the motor will be drawing and what battery will be able to handle it. I know how to find the max discharge on a battery, but not entirely sure about motors.

Cheers
Ramon

Welcome to the thread.

- Firstly, That motor/esc combo is perfect for anything but 'real' racing. (sensored becomes a factor very late, and "imho" not really ever with the new high quality 4poles)

- Second, performance would definitely be 'inpart' needing to get used to the Truck. It doesn't drive like anything else out there, and Also, the stock setup is garbage. Check the Ryan Cav setup on RC10.com for a baseline to start from.

- As far as Amps and motors. I work at a shop and you're right, amp is huge there.

We work like this (until you get into the nitty gritty with numbers)
1. Gear it.
2. Test it 3-4min, Check temperature.
(and if you didn't know, lower gear ratio equals more torque/less topspeed, higher gear ratio equals more topspeed/less torque.)
3. Go up or down based on the Temperature. (this is before timing comes into play with Sensored motors, ignore any of that)
4. Achieve desired speed/torque and comfortable motor temps. (160 degrees is pretty damn hot to the hand, and that's inside the optimum temperature for that motor.)

If you run for 2 minutes and the 1410 is really hot; Yeah, Time to re-evaluate. The 1410 is the definition of bulletproof and I personally ran one for 8 months off 35c batteries back to back (7 packs) with no temperature issues with "very" high speeds possible.

Let us know how you are doing.

Read Page 1 for a gearing suggestion chart for many motors, yours is the most popular from when that chart was made.

Thank you very much for the reply, very helpful. So I think my first step is to properly run the truck, with my setup, just checking temps, then gear accordingly. Hopefully, the 25c packs will be enough.

How could one go about figuring out what amps a motor will draw?

Also, if I am to go up to a 3s, which I won't, but just for knowledge sake, would the amps go up or down?

I might be way off, but I heard the 1410 has an amp draw of 160A, and with my calculation, my battery's will only be able to supply 75A, is this correct or am I wrong?

Cheers
Ramon

WooHoo!
 

Congrats Cameron! Props to Marcus!

still not very happy with how this truck lands
 

2nd day out yesterday and I'm still not very happy with how this truck lands. It's not very forgiving. The truck has to land perfect or else it tends to bounce on landings. When it does land perfect, it's perfect. But I'm far from a perfect driver and I'm looking for some forgiveness in the landings. Everything else on the truck seems to be good and handles good. I do have the 2 stage pistons, but I wanted to get a few more race days under my belt to really compare how they do.

Currently I'm running yellow front, blue rears, and 40wt front and back. I forget what pistons I'm running.

What direction, as far as tuning, should I be going to trying to help this?

yeah, 1s, but I am running two of them... I dont know what the deal is. I have alot of thigs going through my head about all of this right now. Think I might just go back to my stick packs and leave it that way. Wont make up my mind yet, I'm still gonna do some practice / testing this week and then I'll make a decision.

If you start charging and the battery takes less than 6000mHa, I think the problem is the voltage cutoff in the speed control. Note the start voltage, if you'd please.

If the battery IS about 6.6v and takes 6000mHa or more, well...you have a problem with the motor. I'm not sure how you take that much current out of the truck in seven minutes by any other means. I'm not even sure how you get that much current through the drivetrain period.

Does your motor specs give u watts. If so watts/volts=amps. Example motor 800watts/7.4v= 108.11amps also 3s will reduce amps 800/11.1=72.07 amps. Keep in mind this is a constant and actual current draw will depend on traction and driving style. Generally in my opinion battery should be able to produce at least 130amps at 2s. Hope this helps. And others correct my thinking if wrong.