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Center diff and chassis setup
Finally got to the track to run with center diff mod last Saturday.
Truck handles way different with center diff compared to how I ran with stock slipper and 30K front diff fluid / 5K rear. The truck now wanted to snap roll way too easy and without notice going into sweeper after straightaway. My setup was as follows: Blue springs and sway bars F/R 32.5/27.5 shock fluid F/R bladder build, no boots, 6mm external shock limiters to prevent binding CVAs on outdrives Rear shock eyes turned 1 turn out Short front camber link with 2mm under ball stud Long rear camber link with 1mm under ball stud Camber link middle hole on rear hub Middle shock mount on towers F/R Outer on front arms / Inside on rear Diff fluid: 10K F / 5K R Center ball diff 23mm ride height F/R B44.1 saddle mount run inline with GensAce 6K Mah Lipos Chassis brace 3mm offset JC hazard wheels with AKA super soft Grid Irons F/R MMP ESC 35deg timing 5300rpm to 18,200rpm / No torque limiting / No punch control Tekin Pro4 4K motor 60/15 gearing Castle BEC Airtronics receiver Savox 1258TG servo Truck was very responsive but would traction roll without warning just getting into sweeper and bicycle very easily when going into 180 at end of sweeper. Very good on and off power steering, almost a little too twitchy. Tonight we had a club race and I made the following changes before practice: Long front camber link 5mm shims under front ball stud Rear lower shock moved to outside hole on arm In practice before the race, the truck felt completly different from Saturday. No longer did I have an issue with rolling. I could drive in hard into the sweeper, get on the bank, and drive hard into the 180 before getting on brakes to setup for the turn. On the negative side it felt like it was pushing in tight turns. After about 10min of practice motor temped at 165F and ESC at 115F. I ran it like this in the first heat. Before the 2nd heat I removed 1mm shim under front ball stud for total 4mm shims. No rolling and pushing less but still didn't turn as tight as I would like. Truck was good everywhere else. Can get on the throttle hard and stays hooked up and accellerates hard down the straight. Was hooked up everywhere but would slide a little in the braking bumps before the 180 after sweeper if on the brakes hard. Super planted everywhere else. No problem clearing and backsiding table top leading to quad and clearing quad. More responsive on throttle compared to slipper setup. Down the straight you could see the rear end squat down and front tires balloon up pulling hard down the straight. Finished 5th in Pro4 main. No fault of the truck. Driver made too many errors but much more fun to drive fast. Let a few guys drive the truck after the race and one of those commented, "why do people say this truck is no good. This truck drives great." Changes I need to try are going back to short front camber link with 4 and or 5mm shims to pick up some steering, try 7K in front diff, adding balast weight to sides of center chassis to settle the chassis down in bumps and ruts. |
How do you run without the front inner cover? The tensioner is screwed into it.
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 10433305)
that about the time I could expect so its not luck . At Trcr I get a bit hotter, maybe due the extra traction @ Trcr & my fat trigger finger..
usually came in 180 to 195 ..used a 12T |
Originally Posted by SBWheels2008
(Post 10433629)
I heard from other drivers that the clicking you describe might be coming from slop and abnormal wear with the sun gears in the diffs. One driver suggested using the diff outdrive washers as shims on the inside of the diff, between the sun gear pin and the sun gear washers. See page 8 of the kit manual. This tightens up the mesh between the outdrives, the sun gears and the diff case. I hear that over time, the sun gear washers become concave, creating the clicking noise. Doing without the outdrive washers evidently doesn't hurt the diff or the outdrives.
Some find they only need to shim one sun gear. Others shim both sun gears. Also, if you have a nitro clutch shim kit, you may find something that will fit. Of course, you can buy a diff rebuild kit for about $11 and use those washers to shim the diff. You want to eliminate the slop while still allowing the gears to easily turn without binding. I plan to do this when I tear down my diffs next time. Steven PT Raceway in Green Level, PA, indoor carpet off-road & oval AE SC10 FT, AE SC10 4x4, AE T4.1, AE B4, AE B44 FT Thanks for the advise. I have a rebuild kit and will have the diff pulled again and shimmed up. Has anyone heard of a CVA going bad and making this sound. I know on my atv's the cv's click when going bad, but not sure if these are the same. Thanks |
Originally Posted by F_ME
(Post 10433957)
Finally got to the track to run with center diff mod last Saturday.
Truck handles way different with center diff compared to how I ran with stock slipper and 30K front diff fluid / 5K rear. The truck now wanted to snap roll way too easy and without notice going into sweeper after straightaway. My setup was as follows: Blue springs and sway bars F/R 32.5/27.5 shock fluid F/R bladder build, no boots, 6mm external shock limiters to prevent binding CVAs on outdrives Rear shock eyes turned 1 turn out Short front camber link with 2mm under ball stud Long rear camber link with 1mm under ball stud Camber link middle hole on rear hub Middle shock mount on towers F/R Outer on front arms / Inside on rear Diff fluid: 10K F / 5K R Center ball diff 23mm ride height F/R B44.1 saddle mount run inline with GensAce 6K Mah Lipos Chassis brace 3mm offset JC hazard wheels with AKA super soft Grid Irons F/R MMP ESC 35deg timing 5300rpm to 18,200rpm / No torque limiting / No punch control Tekin Pro4 4K motor 60/15 gearing Castle BEC Airtronics receiver Savox 1258TG servo Truck was very responsive but would traction roll without warning just getting into sweeper and bicycle very easily when going into 180 at end of sweeper. Very good on and off power steering, almost a little too twitchy. Tonight we had a club race and I made the following changes before practice: Long front camber link 5mm shims under front ball stud Rear lower shock moved to outside hole on arm In practice before the race, the truck felt completly different from Saturday. No longer did I have an issue with rolling. I could drive in hard into the sweeper, get on the bank, and drive hard into the 180 before getting on brakes to setup for the turn. On the negative side it felt like it was pushing in tight turns. After about 10min of practice motor temped at 165F and ESC at 115F. I ran it like this in the first heat. Before the 2nd heat I removed 1mm shim under front ball stud for total 4mm shims. No rolling and pushing less but still didn't turn as tight as I would like. Truck was good everywhere else. Can get on the throttle hard and stays hooked up and accellerates hard down the straight. Was hooked up everywhere but would slide a little in the braking bumps before the 180 after sweeper if on the brakes hard. Super planted everywhere else. No problem clearing and backsiding table top leading to quad and clearing quad. More responsive on throttle compared to slipper setup. Down the straight you could see the rear end squat down and front tires balloon up pulling hard down the straight. Finished 5th in Pro4 main. No fault of the truck. Driver made too many errors but much more fun to drive fast. Let a few guys drive the truck after the race and one of those commented, "why do people say this truck is no good. This truck drives great." Changes I need to try are going back to short front camber link with 4 and or 5mm shims to pick up some steering, try 7K in front diff, adding balast weight to sides of center chassis to settle the chassis down in bumps and ruts. I know cavalieri and maifield are crazy good drivers and could probably drive a shopping cart faster than my 2wd sc10, but whenever I see videos of them driving their sc10 4x4, it looks quicker and faster than any other brand of truck out there. keep us updated on how the your sc10 4x4 runs. thanks, |
i got a sc10 4x4 on trade and it has a small fan always blowing cold air onto the motor. you guys should do this mod it will help out alot for heat.
here i have a picture of the mod i am talking about. http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/d...cket/184-1.jpg |
Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 10433985)
How do you run without the front inner cover? The tensioner is screwed into it.
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Thanks!
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Originally Posted by F_ME
(Post 10433957)
Finally got to the track to run with center diff mod last Saturday.
Truck handles way different with center diff compared to how I ran with stock slipper and 30K front diff fluid / 5K rear. The truck now wanted to snap roll way too easy and without notice going into sweeper after straightaway. My setup was as follows: Blue springs and sway bars F/R 32.5/27.5 shock fluid F/R bladder build, no boots, 6mm external shock limiters to prevent binding CVAs on outdrives Rear shock eyes turned 1 turn out Short front camber link with 2mm under ball stud Long rear camber link with 1mm under ball stud Camber link middle hole on rear hub Middle shock mount on towers F/R Outer on front arms / Inside on rear Diff fluid: 10K F / 5K R Center ball diff 23mm ride height F/R B44.1 saddle mount run inline with GensAce 6K Mah Lipos Chassis brace 3mm offset JC hazard wheels with AKA super soft Grid Irons F/R MMP ESC 35deg timing 5300rpm to 18,200rpm / No torque limiting / No punch control Tekin Pro4 4K motor 60/15 gearing Castle BEC Airtronics receiver Savox 1258TG servo Truck was very responsive but would traction roll without warning just getting into sweeper and bicycle very easily when going into 180 at end of sweeper. Very good on and off power steering, almost a little too twitchy. Tonight we had a club race and I made the following changes before practice: Long front camber link 5mm shims under front ball stud Rear lower shock moved to outside hole on arm In practice before the race, the truck felt completly different from Saturday. No longer did I have an issue with rolling. I could drive in hard into the sweeper, get on the bank, and drive hard into the 180 before getting on brakes to setup for the turn. On the negative side it felt like it was pushing in tight turns. After about 10min of practice motor temped at 165F and ESC at 115F. I ran it like this in the first heat. Before the 2nd heat I removed 1mm shim under front ball stud for total 4mm shims. No rolling and pushing less but still didn't turn as tight as I would like. Truck was good everywhere else. Can get on the throttle hard and stays hooked up and accellerates hard down the straight. Was hooked up everywhere but would slide a little in the braking bumps before the 180 after sweeper if on the brakes hard. Super planted everywhere else. No problem clearing and backsiding table top leading to quad and clearing quad. More responsive on throttle compared to slipper setup. Down the straight you could see the rear end squat down and front tires balloon up pulling hard down the straight. Finished 5th in Pro4 main. No fault of the truck. Driver made too many errors but much more fun to drive fast. Let a few guys drive the truck after the race and one of those commented, "why do people say this truck is no good. This truck drives great." Changes I need to try are going back to short front camber link with 4 and or 5mm shims to pick up some steering, try 7K in front diff, adding balast weight to sides of center chassis to settle the chassis down in bumps and ruts. Lots of things are contributing to your traction roll issues, when changing to the center dif there are some setting that need to be adjusted. not sure if you have 2 stage pistons are not but, going to a short link in the rear with 1mm spacer helped my truck with this issue ALOT. also play with the 3-3 block. You can get away with light dif fluids, I typically run 7/3. Also adding weight to the outside of the chassis can also contribute to slower transitioning and in some cases worse traction rolling (off camber turns, turns with tabletops in them). Its good practice to keep your added weight as close to the centerline as possible, you will still get the same effects for settling the truck down but will not effect transitioning. |
Originally Posted by darryl80
(Post 10434455)
i got a sc10 4x4 on trade and it has a small fan always blowing cold air onto the motor. you guys should do this mod it will help out alot for heat.
here i have a picture of the mod i am talking about. http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/d...cket/184-1.jpg |
Sc10 4x4 Newb needing tips & suggestions
Hello all, I just wanted to get your thoughts on must do upgrades. I ran this past weekend at the Bigfoot open @ Mikes Hobby shop. Took 3rd in the d main. Lol not much to be proud of but it was my first race on an offload track in about 10 years. My Sc10 4x4 is 100% stock other than adding sway bars. The turck still ran great and hooked up. Mostly was driver error lol, there where 55 enteries mostly Losi & only about 5 maybe 6 Sc10 4x4s a main was only 1 Sc10 4x4. I'm a fairly good driver, I needing advice on what to do to make the truck more competitive. Thank you in advance for any tips and suggestions .
I forgot to add I am currently running Novak 5.5 Hv 15 pinion HobbyWing 150a Xerun Everything else in a stock RTR truck |
Saddle packs (not absolutely necessary)
Anything from RCshox (Garodisk/center diff, 2 stage pistons, ackbar) Chassis brace Time, oil and springs. |
Originally Posted by sbrewer
(Post 10434565)
Hello all, I just wanted to get your thoughts on must do upgrades. I ran this past weekend at the Bigfoot open @ Mikes Hobby shop. Took 3rd in the d main. Lol not much to be proud of but it was my first race on an offload track in about 10 years. My Sc10 4x4 is 100% stock other than adding sway bars. The turck still ran great and hooked up. Mostly was driver error lol, there where 55 enteries mostly Losi & only about 5 maybe 6 Sc10 4x4s a main was only 1 Sc10 4x4. I'm a fairly good driver, I needing advice on what to do to make the truck more competitive. Thank you in advance for any tips and suggestions .
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Originally Posted by jnyrcr
(Post 10434628)
Read the last six months or so, allot of opinions, allot of good set up info, center diff would be my first choice and the center brace, good luck.:)
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Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
(Post 10434096)
Yeah, extra traction will do that to ya. I run on a very loose track that's fairly open. What motor and speedo combo do you run in your truck?
Keep coming back to my Novak 5.5 Ballistic 550 ... 16T , Lrp SXX using a lot of boost(6) Found the Novak's power is perfect for the tracks I run on , not to much rip, smoothest motor I have run yet . Comes in about 130 to 135 & I get 15 min run time easy... |
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