That's a subtle but big difference when it comes to using the FT brace

I'm hoping for the JConcepts race in April. I'm from Amarillo so it's a 6 hour drive, but I had a lot of fun last time. So I should be there

Craig, would u think that due to rear weight bias that the rear should be sprung heavier than the front. Only have one set of yellow fronts and thinking of running blue fronts and yellow rears. Not sure if this is correct. I saw u run yellow fronts front and rear but if a heavier spring was available would u run it on the rear. Just curious.

Where can I get a good deal on some scales. Anyone?

This is correct - almost.

I'm going to take some liberties with the next paragraph because I don't want to write a novel on the subject. Suffice to say, there is some debate out there on what wheel rates are supposed to be. For a passenger car, the rear wheel rate (chassis spring rate once you correct for the angle and the leverage of the control arms and the tire) is usually about 20% stiffer than the front, assuming 50/50 weight split front to rear. This is mostly for passenger comfort because the front wheel hits the bump first and you'd like the harmonics to be slightly different. Many race cars run the rear softer because the driver likes it that way. And that's not wrong.

For the last couple of race days, I've been calculating wheel rates/wheel frequencies on any chassis I can get my hands on (user Oasis Losi included). None of them were as poorly mismatched front to rear as the out of the box SC10 4x4.

I tried that - it worked pretty dialed with 2 1/2 oz in the front. Once I went to 3 1/2oz, it was too much for the blues.

You might find the yellow front (front) and blue front (rear) to your liking. If you already have the parts, I'd recommend you go that way and see if you like it because it won't cost anything.

Also correct, if I could find a stiffer rear spring I would run it AND put the 550 back in. I have always liked a setup with more rear spring because it allows me to drive more aggressively since the car is more responsive.

Amazon. You want ones that have 1000 gram capacity. I use some that look like these at $7 a piece, but if you look around you might find some for less. Yes, I'm a notorious cheapskate.

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Pocket.../dp/B0042E4AG0

You need a flat surface, a bubble level, and a way to level the flat surface if you expect your weights to be consistent and accurate.

Thanx for the info.

got a new body from a main today:sweat::sweat:

Wow, looks good to me. Think I'm gonna order one. Gets around 110-115 in the summer here, the extra cooling can never hurt.

Whick one did you get?

Same thing i said about the reedy. Super smooth, not the most powerfull but plenty of power and torque and run's nice and cool.

stv ford high flow from jc

i dont have a lhs so i need some help to hook up a motor and esc not good with that stuff.

What do you need help with, how to solder it, or how to hook it up (what wires go where)??

how to solder it all up . i have a mmp esc and a 5700 motor

Unless there's someone on here in your area the best bet is to try it yourself if you feel comfortable enough, here is a video that shows you how:

+ YouTube Video

There are a ton more on youtube on how to solder so you may want to watch a few for tips and tricks...... One tip I can offer is to take your time and make sure you have the right equipment.......

thanks