Originally Posted by Shark413 (Post 10956146)

With my 8mm mod the suspension works fine. No binding and the length of the camber links are fine (no need to trim, and I run -1 degree of rear camber). Also as you noticed it is not really an 8mm mod, I found with the 12mm stud the most you can run is 6mm worth of spacers. With 6mm the stud threads into the metal shock tower insert. With the hubs reversed the camber links are almost perfectly straight.

Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier (Post 10955844)

Spark,

I went with reversing the rear hubs also (Left is Right and Right is now Left). I currently have the CF tower extensions, 12mm ball studs, and went with 6mm of spacers on the stud. The 8mm of spacers on the stud left only a short amount of threads left on the ball stud which wouldn't thread into the metal eyelet where it is screwed into on the bulkhead. Maybe there is a 14mm ball stud that could be used? I have the camber link on the middle hole on the hub and the inside hole on the bulkhead. I noticed that when setting the rear camber I had to shorten the camber link a lot and it bottomed out on the camber link rod end where it was putting pressure on the ball link causing binding where when I did a swing test on the arms with the shocks off.

With all that said, I think that having a straighter camber link is a good thing. My buggy and truggy and about every RC I have seen has a camber link that is parallel with the arm itself. I am thinking though I might have to remove about 2 to 3mm of camber link (metal part) to reach -2mm of camber where the camber link isn't bottoming out on the camber link end causing binding.

Did you run into any of these issues? Is there any change to toe by reversing the rear hubs? Also, how is this Mod working out for you?

-Hoosier

Originally Posted by umpy907 (Post 10955896)

Is that what you were running before you put the front locker in?

Originally Posted by RossNZ (Post 10956401)

Yes, had 20,000 in the front a long time, went to a V1 home made ball diff and down to 7000 in the front, now to my slipper setup, has plenty of steering, almost too much, I even put a sway bar back on the front to try to take some steering away, that seemed better, will do some more track testing soon, I'm very happy with the handling of the track, have done all the mods on here to some point, trucks on rails, just got to hit the right slipper compo for my track and I should beat the Losi's, easy to out steer them, just can't out accelerate them of jumps etc, I'm very close to swapping to a Losi, and close to running out of ideas on the SC10, guys that could never beat me with there other trucks, now do with Losi's, very frustrating!

Originally Posted by umpy907 (Post 10955821)

So if I put on the exotec front locker do I need to put lighter diff oil in

Originally Posted by RossNZ (Post 10955838)

I'm running 7000 front, 5000 rear, still has close to to much steering.

Originally Posted by BorackBasher (Post 10957155)

just wanted to do some maintenance to the truck yesterday at the track.. currently running 30k in the front with 7k in the rear.. truck felt kinda loose in the rear so i bumped it up to 10k in the rear.. it actually felt worse! :mad: im not sure if i filled the diff all the way or not... just curious on other peoples opinions.. truck didnt feel right as the back end of the truck was very unpredictable. before with the 7k i could actually drive the truck.. not sure whats going on here.. itching to rip her open again and figure it out! currently running the 8mm mod too. another issue i had yesterday was i stripped out a rim with the aluminum hexes.. first one for me! :flaming: im ready to give up on this truck... has anyone else stripped the hazard rims? do the aluminum hexes get worn out? also is it okay to put a shim behind the roll pin or will it bind up?

Originally Posted by BorackBasher (Post 10957155)

just wanted to do some maintenance to the truck yesterday at the track.. currently running 30k in the front with 7k in the rear.. truck felt kinda loose in the rear so i bumped it up to 10k in the rear.. it actually felt worse! :mad: im not sure if i filled the diff all the way or not... just curious on other peoples opinions.. truck didnt feel right as the back end of the truck was very unpredictable. before with the 7k i could actually drive the truck.. not sure whats going on here.. itching to rip her open again and figure it out! currently running the 8mm mod too. another issue i had yesterday was i stripped out a rim with the aluminum hexes.. first one for me! :flaming: im ready to give up on this truck... has anyone else stripped the hazard rims? do the aluminum hexes get worn out? also is it okay to put a shim behind the roll pin or will it bind up?

Originally Posted by Krio (Post 10957169)

To stabilize the rear end on power or mid corner, you actually want to go down on oil thickness. Try 3-5k.

Originally Posted by MantisWorx (Post 10957198)

Your setup is simply just wrong!! going thicker weight in the rear dif will always make it worse, you want to go thinner, 5k is best. IMO you are starting with advanced mods when you need to start off from the beginning!
In stock form without a minimal amount of modding you need to get a set of dual garodisc, proper front end alignment, 30k/5k dif oils,sway bars Y/B, yellow front springs and green front springs in the rear. My base setup is on the RCShox thread, i suggest starting there.
Its not an issue with the wheels, the nut simply backed off or was not tightened down enough. No need for shims behind the roll pin, if so something is not put together correctly.

Originally Posted by BorackBasher (Post 10957206)

bought brand new wheel nuts and im super anal before every heat or qual to make sure their tight! check them every freakin run!

Originally Posted by MantisWorx (Post 10957214)

Blue loctite on the axles and let it sit for 5min before putting the nuts back on. Stuff happens on race trucks!

Originally Posted by BorackBasher (Post 10957227)

yea i geuss i gotta do that too to the 4x4.. did it to the 2wd and never comes off.. thanks for the help guys.. and whats the dual garodisc? kinda confused on that?

Originally Posted by BorackBasher (Post 10957227)

yea i geuss i gotta do that too to the 4x4.. did it to the 2wd and never comes off.. thanks for the help guys.. and whats the dual garodisc? kinda confused on that?