You're right:nod:

1st thing i'm gonna try Cherry:nod:

Now that I think of it, a open diff will send power to the place with the least traction. Usually the front since weight transfers to the rear under acceleration.
A thicker diff (like a posi or mech locker) will apply power equally... more to the rear under acceleration and that would allow more front traction and steering.

Maybe Marcus will get our heads straight on this :D

I think that goes back to try zero and ten pins to see what it's doing to the truck.

OMG, I dropped one in the living room rug and I spent 10 minutes looking for it. From rubbing the shag to hitting the bottom where it landed to picking the whole rug up and shaking and hitting it upside down. Nothing.
Then my friend caught a glimpse of it and asked if that was it... it was. Pure luck or I would still have 9 pins to tune with :lol:

That's my seat of the pants experience, I run less pins outdoor and more pins indoor on a super sticky westcoast raceway clay where I have more traction and steering.

haha me too. I dropped it literally about 10 inches and saw approximately where it fell but is f'n gone! Not even a magnet could find it. :lol:

Now I'm super anxious to give it a whirl now. Sucks that we've gotten about 5 inches of water this week.

any one ever mess around with air ducts to the motor ? ya know instead of using a fan ?

Thought of that. My xxx-4 body has a duct above the motor, but it's mm's away from the motor.
With the sct bodies there is a lot of room between the body and the motor so I didn't think it would be effective.

try moving your front inner ball stud to the inside hole. it helped with my on power push

Quote from JQ tuning guide:

5.7 Front Upper Link

The front upper link is a good tuning option on most cars. I will discuss a front upper link, not arm, but all of this applies to the cars with front upper arms also. Changing the front upper link changes how the car turns, responds to driver input, and how much traction the front end has.

In general, a long front link will make the car more calm, it will have more traction. A shorter link will make it react and change direction faster.

Lowering the front link on the tower will increase steering into the corner, but can also make the car flip over easier, specially while cornering. Raising the front link on the tower will make the car more stable, less steering into the corner. Going too high, may make it hook suddenly as the car slows down as the car is negotiating the corner.

Lengthening and shortening the link on the tower, or on the hub, has a similar effect. This is a bit of a hard nut to crack, but I feel, that the further in the link is on the tower, the more stable and consistent the car is. The further out the link is on the tower, the more non-linear, and inconsisten the car is, even if the length and angle of the link is kept the same. By nonlinear I mean, that it acts different at different speeds, or if traction changes, pushes, then turns, or similar. It will also roll less and have less traction. On the hub, it seems different, on the hub, it seems like it stays consistent, and the effect is more evident. A long link on the tower or hub is more stable, gives more traction, more steering mid to exit of the corner, and a short link is more responsive and gives more steering into the corner, and less overall traction.

i was actually thinking of making a tunnel or a tube that would flow air to the motor from the front.

southern fried I'm telling ya, move your front shock inward on the bottom!!!!!!!!

Southernfried, if you want more overall steering, get rid of the 8mm mod. That mod is designed to make the rear stay more planted, especially at high speeds. It still locks in the rear at lower speeds, just not as dramatically. I run 4mm spacers under the rear ballstud, this helps lock in the rear too, so, to free it up, get the inner mounting point as low as possible. When I ran on a high bite indoor track, I ran the C hub tower, but with no ballstud shims. Rear rotated like crazy, but the camber rise was too great. Go back to stock rear link setup, and enjoy!

Well after only running the BH 120a esc for a day I put back my Tekin RX8, nothing wrong with the BH esc I just like how my RX8 performed better and considering I got my RX8 back from Tekin in just a little over a week (including shipping from CA to ID vice versa) how could I not run it with great customer service like that....... I also decided not to run it on the right side but to put it where the rx goes, now I just need to weigh it on my scales to see where I need to balance it out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/SAM_0175.jpg

Oh and this is another reason why I'm running a full tekin setup, a good friend on here painted this body for me and I must say he did a great job.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/SAM_0176.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...z/SAM_0177.jpg

Wait whats the consensus? Inside of arm on frt? Back? or both?

Also I'm not changing the rear stud height unless all else fails. I didn't just mod it up to 8mm and say all is well. I started with zero under ball stud and it was undriveable. I have slowly added spacer's under the rear until it felt good..

Have considered making front camber rod longer, but my track has a couple of chicanes and I am afraid it will make the front end too "lazy" for lack of a better word. We have a couple of switchbacks that require a quick reacting suspension as well.

All in all my truck is good. This is the last piece of the puzzle for me and I really don't want to hurt one thing to fix another.

I truly appreciate all the advice, and I have a few options now to go thru. I will run it Thursday and see how it acts.:tire::tire::nod::tire::tire:

Not enough air. I ran a Novak fan at first, not enough flow.

The yeah racing fan with the 180 in the part number works great. About $8.

The way you have it now is too stiff in the front. Move to the inner hole in the arm if you want to keep yellows.