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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

TEAM-AE-4-EVER 10-30-2011 03:06 AM


Originally Posted by SourDieselX (Post 9843017)
recommendation, turn that motor waaaaaaaay down, for our trucks it's to much, our trucks are far to light for that motor, i have the 4600 and it just flies.


I take it your talking about lowering the Motor Limit? If so, I have done that and turned it down to 70. As for my pinion, 13T and the 32 Pitch Spur is what I'm thinking to start with. Unless someone else with a similar set-up highly recommends otherwise? :blush:

Anybody out there have any suggestions on where the nut should be on the shaft if one has the 3 Garodisks and the MTK Clutch-Basket installed?! :weird:

My truck is using stick packs and is not "pinned"... at least not yet. :sneaky:

Thanks for your comments and suggestions! :nod:

bseckel 10-30-2011 05:03 AM

I run the pro 4 4000 and i have it geared at a 15 tooth pinion with the 32 pitch gears. y motor is barely warm after a 6 min race.

symmetricon 10-30-2011 05:57 AM


Originally Posted by BLbound (Post 9845391)
Ok guys...I need some advice. I'm eventually going to convert my truck to saddle packs, but I'm looking to get a new esc. I have a Novak kinetic & I've been having issues with it so I think it's time for something more reliable. I was thinking of trying a rx8 but I don't know if it will fit when I convert to saddle packs. I'm running a 550 D3 4.5 so I want to stay with a sensored esc. Will I have to go with something small like a viper esc? Please let me know what you guys think/know. Thanks! :tire:

http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-xerun-120a-sd.html
Best esc for the money. get the programming card, download the SP software, install, MONEY! I am running the pro4 4000kv/Xerun 120amp with a little boost and turbo and my esc still comes off the track 97deg;) keep in mind it is fall in houston so it is only 70ish deg. Even in the dead of summer, being 110deg, my esc never got ver 130deg.

ShortCourseOnly 10-30-2011 06:23 AM


Originally Posted by Mac The Knife (Post 9845301)
And Krio was picking up some goodies at the awards banquet in Lansing tonight.

Weird that you say the bushing in the front slipper plate was interfereing with the Garodisk. First, the bushing should be flush with the plate, and secondly, it looks like the hole in the garodisk should be larger than the outer diameter of the bushing. Weird.

I will try to take some photos. My kit is one of the first kits out. I just waited 6 months to build it!!! Once I get the slipper apart I will know how much slip I experienced after I swapped out the garodisk on the front.

Farmer_John 10-30-2011 07:17 AM


Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly (Post 9846085)
I will try to take some photos. My kit is one of the first kits out. I just waited 6 months to build it!!! Once I get the slipper apart I will know how much slip I experienced after I swapped out the garodisk on the front.

Come look me up next weekend. Not running SC right now (need an esc to replace the RX8 that now sits in my RC8Be), but I'll be there! Last night was the most fun I've had racing RC since returning from Texas.

Evil Genius jr. 10-30-2011 07:50 AM

Would someone mind measuring their chassis brace end to end for me? Thanks!

fastrc64 10-30-2011 07:59 AM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9845434)
I tried to do the pin mod and failed. Problem was that the dremel bit I was using couldn't make a dent in the hardened steel shaft and melted off the cutting edge of my bit as soon as it go though the slipper plate.

I don't really have the tools to drill though that accurately, and I'm not really having problems anyway, so I'll wait until there are pre-drilled kits available.

Go thing I got a second shaft and plate to try this with.

maybe just maybe MTK will drill it for you if you ask really NICE :)

He did mine and it rocks i just got to the indoor carpet track laid some laps down i can drive the truck way harder love the pin mod

rickybobbyxxx 10-30-2011 08:01 AM

So would anyone have an idea why my belt wont stop flipping over inside the tunnel??? Cant run the truck for five minutes without it jamming up, pretty sure tensioner is set properly

D-A-N-4-4 10-30-2011 08:51 AM

How would a Novak 5.5 ballistic do in this truck?

rchoi 10-30-2011 08:55 AM

I am trying to change the servo... I remember very first step of this kit was to align servo.
I just want be sure I remove only needed parts to remove the servo... I don't want to tear down everything. I just finished to change diff oils last week... if you know what I mean:cry:
thanks

jmoneym 10-30-2011 09:25 AM


Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4 (Post 9846484)
How would a Novak 5.5 ballistic do in this truck?

Any 4.5, 5.5 or 6.5 would do great.:nod:

kghills 10-30-2011 10:12 AM


Originally Posted by fastrc64 (Post 9842261)
you will dump with that 4000

With the 7.5 540, and 4000mah running 5min qualifiers and main this week due to hi turnout for the race. 7.9 volts per cell when it came off and 2650ish to recharge. Motor temp 180 and would heat soak to maybe 190. No fan.

Truck pushes very badly with the Ryans setup on it for Jason at Trackside.

Will probably pull the OD front drive gear and go back to a 10k front and 3K rear and see how it drives for him.

Keith.

fastrc64 10-30-2011 10:13 AM

pin mod on carpet
 
it works really nice after first round TQ with a lap over second that is an sc10 4x4 also ....with no issues yet

Vegatron75 10-30-2011 10:40 AM


Originally Posted by fastrc64 (Post 9846733)
it works really nice after first round TQ with a lap over second that is an sc10 4x4 also ....with no issues yet

Make sure your slipper is slipping, stock nut location, otherwise you might blow out an idler.

old&slow 10-30-2011 10:40 AM

brace length
 
Mine is 22 cm long of the cf tube then add the the rod ends so ends up near 24 mm


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