Thanks. Sounds like a plan.

Stupid question: How do you disconnect the out drives from the diff gear. I can't seem to get it off.

You have to pull the sun gear then the pin. Check the instruction manua. You will see.

The thing is I can't get the gear off. Maybe I just have to pull harder.
Thanks!

Yeah i run a B44.1 too, thats only reason why i did the saddle packs conversion. Plus parts only cost me $25 shipped. Good now i use saddles for both. I'm not any faster or slower :lol:

I had the same problem. My solution: turn the diff housing so that gravity will pull the gear off and let it sit overnight. That way, you aren't going to damage anything by tapping, wedging, prying, banging, screwing, etc. Then for the sun gear that was on the side that comes off, assemble the diff halves with no other gears inside, then stand the diff up so that gravity will help you again.

I don't believe for a minute what won a race from a professional driver is going to make me win. Sorry it just doesn't work like that in my opinion. I know i've posted my setup and asked for opinions. I have never taken anything you guy's have said straight out. I use it as a suggestion and tune based on how I drive. I never expect you guys to teach me how to tune or drive. Only to pick your brains because I'm out of my own knowledge. (yeah, that's pretty fast I know, stfu!)

For instance: T-bird sent me a setup. I fucking hated it. (sorry t-dawg!) But! I used his 'theory' in his setup and dialed my truck in for that track. I was amazed because I hadn't thought of it from that angle with all the standards around this class.

You have to drive for you. and peek at a setup or two for a suggestion. Both of them running Saddles did 'not' win this race.

I agree as well. Something's gotta flex. Just not enough to hurt the driveline. if it's going to flex, it will. Or it will break. I would rather have the chassis flex that 2-3mm to relieve itself over tearing up my steering or making my A-arms sloppy. (belt damage aside, i'm speaking with a chassis brace installed)

I'm bashing it. And i'm actually okay being called a noob for it as a result. (not directly, and no, i'm not offended) The Exotech Chassis was not there for the Reedy race everyone references. It was a Chassis Brace and lead tucked around.

I do not believe for a second. That a 110.00 part is superior to a 15 dollar chassis brace and 3.00 in Lead. I'm sorry. Not happening. The only thing it has is looks. The pockets on the stock chassis if you look are Direct in line with the Lowest LCG point on this rig. Adding weight there is on par or so ridiculously close with that 'over 100 dollar' option... Take that 90 bucks and buy yourself some FT Shocks and/or some STRC Alum.

Bingo! Saddle packs are not like going with RPM a-arms (shut up Craig) or things like adding weight and reducing flex: Those are pretty much mandatory. Saddles are an option. I say again, People win Club level no problem with Sticks. It's all choice and preference. Show me a statistic that shows Saddle superiority. (no, Reedy was not the first time they ran saddle packs) It's all about tuning. Saddles are just easy mode. (I don't mean this negatively. It saves you from the 4scale balance method and lead everywhere.) But! We are ADDING weight in the long run...... hmmmmmm............
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The Exotech chassis is a great 'bolt on' handling upgrade. It can be done other ways and perform just as miraculously. :nod:

Forgot to mention I have the slipper basket. Are these the preferred pads for the basket or something else? Says on the RCshox website these are for no basket.

I usually use a couple of tooth pics and use them like chopsticks, working both sides. They are wood so they should not hurt your gear. A little motor spray would also work if you need to get the diff fluid out to release the gear(you will need to replace the o-rings though if you use the motor spray). Just be careful to protect your eyes, the spray tends to splash back from the diff case.

[QUOTE=CoyoteSlash;9941995]I don't believe for a minute what won a race from a professional driver is going to make me win. Sorry it just doesn't work like that in my opinion.

I agree. Those guys could run New Bright and win. I didnt do the conversion, nor do i plan on it. I just use saddle packs because i own a car that uses them. The chassis brace i might use. But then again, no flex? Something's got to give somewhere.

[QUOTE=MatSC8Lardi;9942081]I suggest and so will everyone else, using a brace. The problem is "too much". You actually will pop the belt off the pulleys or twist the belt. I make them because they are such a good idea and some guy was charging way too much. I hate buying belts and so did everyone else. Rolling belts suuuuuuuuuuuucks.

For anyone that has saddles already, my argument is void. I'm only stating purchasing saddles specifically for this truck's purpose.

get a pick or a skinny screwdriver to lift that sungear up. its prob just a lil stuck on that pin, you won't break nothing. maybe tap it on it hard from the other side.

rebuilding my rear diff was one of the best things I did. make sure to add a extra shim . I put 5000 wt in mine, it helps keep it straight under acceleration yet allows the rear end to swing around nicely on a hard turn.

My thoughts on the Exotek chassis are its more than a shiny piece of bling. The weight is evenly distributed right in the center which puts right where you need it.

I'm looking to get this real soon and cannot wait.

my sc104x4 has a clicking, grinding noise coming from it when I get on power coming out of a corner.......both tensioners are all the way tight front and rear, no stripped teeth on anything, and slipper is about 2 turns from completely tight

any suggestions? anything else I should check? Im thinking maybe its the slipper clutch assembly

differential

I already explained away this 'evenly distributed' thing about 3 times. And it's not. It's built up on the sides just like the other chassis. (which is evenly distributed plastic) It's. just. heavier. If I put 1/4 ounce of lead in each corner of the middle chassis, it would be evenly distributed too. and I just spend $2.50 doing it.
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I guess people just aren't understanding what I am saying or thinking i'm attacking 'you' as a person for buying it, which is just false. So this will be the last time I talk about that Chassis. rejoice.