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-   -   SC10 4x4 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/511493-sc10-4x4-thread.html)

CraigMBA 11-21-2011 07:55 PM


Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 (Post 9942284)
differential

Or a wheel bearing. I had one of those that was kind of roached too.


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9941995)
(shut up Craig)

What up? :)

symmetricon 11-21-2011 08:11 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9941995)
I'm bashing it. And i'm actually okay being called a noob for it as a result. (not directly, and no, i'm not offended) The Exotech Chassis was not there for the Reedy race everyone references. It was a Chassis Brace and lead tucked around.

I do not believe for a second. That a 110.00 part is superior to a 15 dollar chassis brace and 3.00 in Lead. I'm sorry. Not happening. The only thing it has is looks. The pockets on the stock chassis if you look are Direct in line with the Lowest LCG point on this rig. Adding weight there is on par or so ridiculously close with that 'over 100 dollar' option... Take that 90 bucks and buy yourself some FT Shocks and/or some STRC Alum.

The Exotech chassis is a great 'bolt on' handling upgrade. It can be done other ways and perform just as miraculously. :nod:

I am sorry, but to bash a product that you have no experience with is simply ignorant and misguided. A chassis brace and added weight is not equal to the exotech chassis, period, no speculation. The stock center chassis piece is extremely flimsy, fact. The chassis brace reduces the longitudinal flexion, but fails at reducing the torsional flex.

symmetricon 11-21-2011 08:13 PM


Originally Posted by Resqnu (Post 9941998)
Forgot to mention I have the slipper basket. Are these the preferred pads for the basket or something else? Says on the RCshox website these are for no basket.

there is a 3 pad setup on his site for the clutch basket. :)

fastrc64 11-21-2011 08:30 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9940375)
Gottcha, but you said it was like 3k diff oil right? I like the 5-7k in the rear then 10k-30k in the front, was seeing if I could come up with a conversion formula so I could get the best of both worlds (durability and tunablity)

the truck is very smooth equal front to rear feels like 3k resistance . the truck has a lot of turn in so it has to to be set up with a push but doesn't have one it drives great and with the new Ack bar coming it will be even better

fastrc64 11-21-2011 08:33 PM


Originally Posted by MantisWorx (Post 9940510)
i have been using kyosho gear dif grease in the back and its wonderfull!! as soon as i can get my hands on some 10k i will use it in the front. about what viscosity is the valvoline?

feels like about 3k resistance super smooth

Mizchief 11-21-2011 08:52 PM

The Exotech chassis is a great 'bolt on' handling upgrade. It can be done other ways and perform just as miraculously. :nod:[/QUOTE]

I agree, especially for us mere mortals, that you probably won't notice a real difference between the brace & lead vs. the exotech, but physically speaking I think there is a big difference.

The brace will only really counter act the compression force when hitting on the front end and I don't think will really do much for twisting motion (however probably a little better than without) where the metal plate would transfer that twisting motion to the shock/wheel on the other side much faster rather than soaking up the energy in the chassis to be released in an unpredictable manner.

It's easier to imagine if you think of the stock chassis as a piece of hard rubber and how it would behave vs solid Al.

I personally switch back and forth between my local tight indoor track and a 1/8 scale track which are right opposite cases for exotech vs. stock and I really need the weight as a tuning option so I can launch over doubles with a blip of the throttle, or drive deep into the loamy sweeper depending on the track.

I Don't know i'm still on the fence, i'm a sucker for the "bling" factor as well :tire:

MantisWorx 11-21-2011 08:59 PM


Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash (Post 9942293)
I already explained away this 'evenly distributed' thing about 3 times. And it's not. It's built up on the sides just like the other chassis. (which is evenly distributed plastic) It's. just. heavier. If I put 1/4 ounce of lead in each corner of the middle chassis, it would be evenly distributed too. and I just spend $2.50 doing it.
-------------------

I guess people just aren't understanding what I am saying or thinking i'm attacking 'you' as a person for buying it, which is just false. So this will be the last time I talk about that Chassis. rejoice.

i dont think your attacking me i just dont think you can have an opinion about it without having it on your truck!! i have had the stock chassis with almost the same amount of weight added and there is no comparison. its quite more than just the sides are heavier, cmon man!! i havent broke anything at all with almost 200 laps. the stock chassis is like butter compared to this, you can almost twist it 90*!! at any rate to each his own but i think since i have had all three styles i can actually have an accurate description of the differences. do you really think that a single brace and some lead will be the same as the billet chassis? i have had a bad internet day so please only take this as a discussion!! i thought that i had already proven the difference via video of what the chassis does:)

symmetricon 11-21-2011 09:04 PM

Mizchief, I dare you to take out the center chassis piece, then grab and twist it, flex it. You will the quickly orer the exotech chassis:lol: This truck has more chassis flex than any other rc race car i have ever seen. I do not see a situation where the stock chassis has an advantage, well price wise i guess:lol:

Serioulsy take it out and try to flex it.

Mizchief 11-21-2011 09:15 PM


Originally Posted by symmetricon (Post 9942593)
Mizchief, I dare you to take out the center chassis piece, then grab and twist it, flex it. You will the quickly orer the exotech chassis:lol: This truck has more chassis flex than any other rc race car i have ever seen. I do not see a situation where the stock chassis has an advantage, well price wise i guess:lol:

Serioulsy take it out and try to flex it.

In that case it may be better to run the brace and the Al chassis, if front and rear are still that flexible it would help take the stress off the joints on nose dives.

MantisWorx 11-21-2011 09:18 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9942632)
In that case it may be better to run the brace and the Al chassis, if front and rear are still that flexible it would help take the stress off the joints on nose dives.

the front and rear sections dont have very much flex at all , it stems from the rubber center section. you dont need a brace with the Exo chassis! i have been beating the crap out of my truck here lately and have broken nothing, im just saying......

Wild Cherry 11-21-2011 09:21 PM

Any racer that would not use a professional for set-up help
seems ill advise at best ....:lol:



plus 1 Exotech :cool:

Mizchief 11-21-2011 09:21 PM

you know I think I have some dynamat laying around, that may be another good alternative to lead weights, i run a pad under my battery anyway and everything else should fit if I did the whole bottom of the chassis in dynamat.

MantisWorx 11-21-2011 09:26 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 9942663)
you know I think I have some dynamat laying around, that may be another good alternative to lead weights, i run a pad under my battery anyway and everything else should fit if I did the whole bottom of the chassis in dynamat.

that would actually work pretty good! try it and give us the weight difference.

Resqnu 11-21-2011 09:51 PM


Originally Posted by symmetricon (Post 9942397)
there is a 3 pad setup on his site for the clutch basket. :)

Thanks

jsamarin 11-21-2011 09:53 PM

you dont even have to take the center chassis piece out to see that it is really flexable. just grab the shock towers and twist the truck. u will see the center chassis piece flex and bow. The exotek chassis will almost eliminate this flexability, but everyone knows that by now :sneaky:

Personally, i still think a 1 piece tub chassis, thats thicker than the stock chassis pieces, and molded with a more fiber enriched plastic would be ideal, along with molding the front and rear chassis braces out of the same fiber rich plastic. It would be stiffer than stock, and a little bit heavier, probobly like an oz, but still keep it light, which in reality is just better for racing IMO.


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