I run on a med size outdoor track with that same motor, 60-15 and it's just warm after a race, also run 62-15, even cooler, if your on high grip indoor I'm sure 12-13 would be very safe.

Hey guys, I see there are some option sway bar kits for the front and back of the sc 10 4x4. Are they worth trying out? What kind of results can I expect from using them?

So if I put on the exotec front locker do I need to put lighter diff oil in

I'm sure your problem would go away if you set your slipper a bit looser, this is the one problem with this track, making it drive straight under full power, If you read my above post on the slipper it looks like I have, along with others, found what works best for me, at zero cost.

I'm running 7000 front, 5000 rear, still has close to to much steering.

doh, I ordered a 14..... I was using the "search" function and it looked like several people were doing 14/62........I will temp it every lap and prey it does not start on fire or the lhs has a 13t.

Spark,

I went with reversing the rear hubs also (Left is Right and Right is now Left). I currently have the CF tower extensions, 12mm ball studs, and went with 6mm of spacers on the stud. The 8mm of spacers on the stud left only a short amount of threads left on the ball stud which wouldn't thread into the metal eyelet where it is screwed into on the bulkhead. Maybe there is a 14mm ball stud that could be used? I have the camber link on the middle hole on the hub and the inside hole on the bulkhead. I noticed that when setting the rear camber I had to shorten the camber link a lot and it bottomed out on the camber link rod end where it was putting pressure on the ball link causing binding where when I did a swing test on the arms with the shocks off.

With all that said, I think that having a straighter camber link is a good thing. My buggy and truggy and about every RC I have seen has a camber link that is parallel with the arm itself. I am thinking though I might have to remove about 2 to 3mm of camber link (metal part) to reach -2mm of camber where the camber link isn't bottoming out on the camber link end causing binding.

Did you run into any of these issues? Is there any change to toe by reversing the rear hubs? Also, how is this Mod working out for you?

-Hoosier

14 will prob be 'ok' but i always like to gear to keep to motor under 150 after 7 minutes.

Is that what you were running before you put the front locker in?

Middle hole? There are only 2 holes when you flip the carbon hub...

I tried it with the L/R hubs switched but I didnt like how it was rubbing on the spring so I put it back. I never got to the point of adjusting the camber link so I cant comment on it bottoming out.

The two hole side of the CF piece is the side you attach to the hub, the three hole side is the side you attach the camber link I thought....

When I say flip, I mean flip sides of the whole hub from the right a arm to the left a arm...

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O-Man !

With my 8mm mod the suspension works fine. No binding and the length of the camber links are fine (no need to trim, and I run -1 degree of rear camber). Also as you noticed it is not really an 8mm mod, I found with the 12mm stud the most you can run is 6mm worth of spacers. With 6mm the stud threads into the metal shock tower insert. With the hubs reversed the camber links are almost perfectly straight.


http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/P1010006.jpg
Bottom of the shock tower showing how far the 12mm stud threads in with 6mm of spacers under the stud.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/P1010002.jpg
I have about 1mm of space between the camber link and shock spring (I used a .5mm spacer under the upper shock mount). And you can see how straight my camber link is.

it is called the 8mm mod because it raises the outside ballstud 8mm, nothing to do with how many washers you put on the tower ballstud.

13/62 is what I ran when I had my Ballistic 4.5 550 and seemed ideal (safe). Temps after 6-7 min was around 160°- 167° on the motor and 115° on esc. So although a little warm on the motor side still acceptable. When I geared at 14/62 it was coming off the track well over 180° which I wasn't comfortable with. Swapped to a Pro4 4000 14/60center diff temps also stayed below 165°. Now I am giving the Reedy 4.5 550 a try. Geared at 13/60center diff and performance was right on for my local medium sized indoor clay track. Temps were very nice after about 8min. Motor a tic over 150° and 112° on my Novak esc. I think a 13t would err on the side of caution.