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Just got home from testing of what should be the final cut of the V2 center dif!
testing went very well, I am back to being happy with the truck, i was even able to jump the triples pretty consistently , at least as consistent as i could with the Durango. The tracks jump lips are all over the place so it mainly depends on where you hit it from as to weather you can land it or not. The acceleration is MUCH better as is the mid air adjustments although i had to change my driving style slightly to be comfortable with it. With all 10 pins in it pretty much acts like a slipper but the rear would only slightly step out and you would not have to get out of the gas, this made jumping much easier as i did not have to have a "run" up to it to clear. On power steering was almost too much! down the straight you could see that the front tires barely balloon more than the rear and the neat thing is that when you get off of the gas the truck sticks instead of sliding around the, took a few laps to get used to . I normally set my brakes up so that i can fully engage them but only have enough brake to slow the truck down but not lock it up, down side to this is that if the front of the truck goes too high in the air, you dont have enough brake to get it to go back down. So i now run more brake and just regulate my finger more on braking, not a big deal. But since the B4.3 springs kick the butt up it pretty much flies perfect. Since i was testing some other cars i didnt have time to change anything but I think that 10pins is actually too much for a loose track, there were times where it would get too far out of line and before it would never do that. I am definitely going to be able to dial it in to any track conditions. Pending Cameron's results on high bite this weekend I think I am done! Thanx for everyone patience on this, I think you all will be very happy! |
The Pledge works great on the plastic tranny gears though
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Sweet! Can't wait to try it out!
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look forward to checking that new v2 out. :nod:
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I'm trying to consolidate all the tips and mods into one post here:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...58#post1212458 I know I am missing a lot so what else should I add? |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 10523971)
Use to use Wd -40
then discovered Lemon Pledge ... But soon after switched to Endust cause it was. 003sec faster than all the others and made me ride look brand new ... I use 99cent store generic furniture spray works great, smells nice and is 99cents! You got something going on with the CF B4.1 C-towers and raised camber link. Hmmm. :sneaky: |
Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 10524339)
I'm trying to consolidate all the tips and mods into one post here:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho...58#post1212458 I know I am missing a lot so what else should I add? |
No problem, Let me know if I am missing anything. Home from school sick so I have a bunch of time on my hands.
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Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 10522289)
what servo did you buy exactly? Never heard of a servo being for nicad only, not sure how that even would matter as its the voltages that the servo sees. In general, most of the ESCs do between 5.5 and 6.0V to the receiver which is sent to the servo.
The things I would suggest you pickup right away if its the standard kit is: - Garodiscs or a clutch basket - Swaybar kit front and rear - Front spring kit (put either white or blue front spring on the rear) - Chassis brace I also got the 12mm ball studs to give me more options for putting shims under the studs. What is really killing me is that they go through the trouble of marking the bags, but the instructions do not refer to the bags. I spent a few minutes looking for the bag with the rear diff parts, only to realize that they are already assembled. Been checking the build vids on youtube to help out too. |
I have read bits and pieces of this thread and I have been checking out what others use at the local track here. I have the stock RTR version and it has speed but I believe there could be more and ride without overheating. My friend has the Losi TEN-SCTE with the Tekin Pro4 4600KV and he flies down the track. Only thing is that I pass him on the straight away with the stock motor in mine. Now I don't have the sway bars and need to purchase it soon. Im am in limbo with either upgrading my trucks or get into the boat scene. So out of the motors that I have witnessed, it came down to:
Tekin Pro4 4600kv amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_221_1889_222/products_id/212702/n/Tekin-Pro4-4-Pole-Brushless-Motor-w-5mm-Shaft-4600kV Novak Ballistic 4.5T/5000kv amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_221_1889_1890/products_id/174476/n/Novak-Ballistic-550-Brushless-Short-Course-Motor-45T-5000Kv LRP-X12L 4.5T/4700kv amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_221_1889_1890/products_id/198601/n/LRP-X12L-Short-Course-Sensored-Brushless-550-Motor-45T This is the stock motor in the SC10 4x4 RTR: amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_221_1889_1890/products_id/218887/n/Reedy-550-SL-Sensorless-4-Pole-Brushless-Motor-3500kV |
New revised rear shock tower is a lot stiffer than the old one.
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chassis brace
Will the new FT kit come with a chassis brace since it is now a specific saddle pack setup now? Or has something else been thought of in the redesign of the new FT chassis?
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FT has a brace.
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Originally Posted by mdutcher
(Post 10524903)
Will the new FT kit come with a chassis brace since it is now a specific saddle pack setup now? Or has something else been thought of in the redesign of the new FT chassis?
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 10524908)
FT has a brace.
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