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This truck works, be patient and do the mods we talk about. Proper setup is key. Makes it so much easier to drive. It doesn't need to be driven hard. Smooth is key.
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 10946434)
ok, because the non ft needs a lot more than just yellow springs.
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 10945482)
Well, if you're racing, you should have to replace that part if at all, once maybe every 6months+.
Bashing, go get a T-bone bumper. |
i just got my exotek front slipper plate. is there any thing i should change in my set up while using this ?
i have 30k in front diff and i read some are dropping down in diff fluid. |
Originally Posted by twisted
(Post 10947250)
i just got my exotek front slipper plate. is there any thing i should change in my set up while using this ?
i have 30k in front diff and i read some are dropping down in diff fluid. |
selling my sc10 4x4
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-nanotech.html |
Originally Posted by twisted
(Post 10947250)
i just got my exotek front slipper plate. is there any thing i should change in my set up while using this ?
i have 30k in front diff and i read some are dropping down in diff fluid. |
what does anybody use for adjusting droop? part number?
also, can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 8mm mod? i'm looking for an explanation on how it affects things like roll center, roll moment, and camber, and how that affects the car's handling. |
Tick Tock, Tick Tock, Tick Tock, just waiting for Coyoteslash to explode ;-)
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Originally Posted by Maddog94
(Post 10947372)
Can anyone explain the reasoning behind this? I recently installed this and have not changed my diff fluid.
Originally Posted by RC10Nick
(Post 10947414)
what does anybody use for adjusting droop? part number?
also, can someone explain to me the reasoning behind the 8mm mod? i'm looking for an explanation on how it affects things like roll center, roll moment, and camber, and how that affects the car's handling. Makes the rear end more predictable and more locked in, still able to slide it when you want to but it seems like it is easier to recover if the rear end gets away from you. If you are having trouble taming the rear end then the 8mm mod is your answer...If you arent, you should still have it in your box to try out. |
Originally Posted by SMR 510RR
(Post 10947447)
The reason for the heavy fluid was to calm down the steering. With the locked front hub the truck should be less tail happy and you can use a lower fluid to get some of the steering back.
It lowers roll center, makes the rear softer left to right. It also makes for more camber gain because of the shorter camber link length. Makes the rear end more predictable and more locked in, still able to slide it when you want to but it seems like it is easier to recover if the rear end gets away from you. If you are having trouble taming the rear end then the 8mm mod is your answer...If you arent, you should still have it in your box to try out. |
It also lowers the chance of traction roll because the rear will slide more
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Originally Posted by RC10Nick
(Post 10947491)
Ok, thanks for the explanation. Doesn't sound like its for me, as I feel like my rear end is too planted and my truck tends to push through turns when I'd rather slide through them.
It seems the 8mm mod is best used if you are running firmer rear springs (a lot of us are running very stiff in the rear compared to the blue-blue or yellow-yellow that the manuals suggest). Once you go that stiff with the springs you need to gain back some of the rear traction you lost. If you are pushing then you have something wrong in your setup, while my truck might push a bit on corner exit it never does on entry. |
Originally Posted by ilanstylz
(Post 10947431)
Tick Tock, Tick Tock, Tick Tock, just waiting for Coyoteslash to explode ;-)
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
(Post 10947691)
:cry::cry::cry:
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